Basic Frame Design

[sam everett]

Hello everyone, my name is Sam and I'm from the United Kingdom. I'm new here so please bear with me. Unfortunately the T-Bucket scene over here isn't quite as strong as it is on the other side of the pond, however like many I came across the late "Youngsters" chassis plans and using some 3-D rendering software I have created an exact scale copy using his measurements and method of what the rails look like. I'm not sure if there helpful to anyone but felt I wanted to pass them forward like he did for anyone wanting to see what the finished product should look like.
Its got the perch set at 5 degrees and tapered chassis rail and even the capped rear end.
So here is a screenshot and if anyone would like me to email it to them or close up views etc etc please don't hesitate to ask.
Thanks guys.

 

[tea boy]

Hi Sam neat work . There are some of us from your side of the pond on here .

 

[putz]

Great job Youngster was a great guy met him.

 

[jimbo01]

If anyone were to use Ron's plans and measurements, it might be mentioned that his design and measurements were more suited to a 1915 or so body which were narrower then that of the 23. The largest problem you will encounter with the narrow frame would be getting things like a V8 & the starter to fit between the rails just as an example. The only thing I would change other then that would be wrapping material around the cross member for a little more added strength.

 

[sam everett]

If anyone were to use Ron's plans and measurements, it might be mentioned that his design and measurements were more suited to a 1915 or so body which were narrower then that of the 23. The largest problem you will encounter with the narrow frame would be getting things like a V8 & the starter to fit between the rails just as an example. The only thing I would change other then that would be wrapping material around the cross member for a little more added strength.

Thanks Jimbo, I didn't know that. Much appreciated, thanks for looking.

 

[all-world1]

I built my frame to Youngster's dimensions including the tapered rails and was unaware of the width issue at the time. I welded in a model A rear crossmember, so increasing the frame width would be a royal pain and I'd rather not at this point. I recall Ron saying that he mounts his SBCs approx 1.5 inches higher than normal.

Just wondering if anyone has built to Ron's dimensions and has any advice or pics of any problem areas such as the starter, fuel pump, alternator, motor mounts, etc.

 

[jimbo01]

I built my frame to Youngster's dimensions including the tapered rails and was unaware of the width issue at the time. I welded in a model A rear crossmember, so increasing the frame width would be a royal pain and I'd rather not at this point. I recall Ron saying that he mounts his SBCs approx 1.5 inches higher than normal.

Just wondering if anyone has built to Ron's dimensions and has any advice or pics of any problem areas such as the starter, fuel pump, alternator, motor mounts, etc.

I built my frame using Ron's plans also but did make width changes. The outside measurement of my frame is 26" making the inside 22" and I did use 2x3 tubing. With Ron's plans he used 1 1/2 x 3 tubing and his outside measurement was around 23" making the inside measurement 20".
I'm running a small block Ford and the only clearance issue I've encountered is the oil filter. With this inside measurement I have, I can not use a full size filter. I have since picked up a 90 degree filter adaptor to correct this issue. The only other choices I had was to use a smaller filter or a remote filter.

 

[all-world1]

I built my frame using Ron's plans also but did make width changes. The outside measurement of my frame is 26" making the inside 22" and I did use 2x3 tubing. With Ron's plans he used 1 1/2 x 3 tubing and his outside measurement was around 23" making the inside measurement 20".
I'm running a small block Ford and the only clearance issue I've encountered is the oil filter. With this inside measurement I have, I can not use a full size filter. I have since picked up a 90 degree filter adaptor to correct this issue. The only other choices I had was to use a smaller filter or a remote filter.

Thanks Jimbo, the filter adapter takes care of that issue. What did you use for motor mounts as you've got 2" more width than mine?

 

[jimbo01]

Thanks Jimbo, the filter adapter takes care of that issue. What did you use for motor mounts as you've got 2" more width than mine?

I used RPM's motor mounts. Just a little trim work on the frame side of the mount and everything worked out great. Here is a link to the mounts that I used.

http://shop.eztbucket.com/Small-Block-Ford-Motor-Mount-9006.htm

 

[sam everett]

Hey Jimbo, is your modified "youngster" frame the same width end to end? I see a few threads discussing their frames being wider at the rear and narrower at the front? Cheers man

 

[jimbo01]

Hey Jimbo, is your modified "youngster" frame the same width end to end? I see a few threads discussing their frames being wider at the rear and narrower at the front? Cheers man

I had no reason to make the rear wider then the front, so yes the measurements are the same front to rear.

 

[sam everett]

Hi Sam neat work . There are some of us from your side of the pond on here .

Wicked, hi tea boy! Nice to meet ya, thanks for looking! Where you from buddy?

 

[old round fart]

My personal preference is to taper the frame. I like the front to be close to the radiator and the frame the same as the fire wall. That sets the rate of taper. Just hope the back ends up inside the bed!