Brakes suck

Im trying to get up to 10 post so i can post photos. But anyways. Got standard 10×2 drum brakes on rear. And on the front its got probably 10 or 11 inch solid rotors maybe 3/8 inch think with tiny little calipers. Pad are only like 2 inches long. Just installed new speedway dual circuit t bucket master cylinder and pedal assembly. Pedal feels good and firm but i just got to stand on the pedal to get it to stop. And on my dirt road ive got to stand on it super hard just to get the rear brakes to barely lock up, on dirt. Idk what im missing.

 

Ya know, all you have to do is type "one" character and post it ten times. Seriously. It works.

 

Basically pressure, as in not enough. I suspect your master cylinder bore is too big for the rest of the system.

 

I still have questions. So might as well ask them.

 

Its a 1" bore. I didnt think about that when i ordered it. It just said it was made for t buckets with front disk rear drum.

 

How do i post a photo off my phone to this thread. Cant figure it out. Lol

 

I don't think there's an app for that.........yet.

 

That bore size should be OK; check your pedal ratio.

 

My brake specialist who was in the Industry all his working life told me all the older non boosted cars had 7-1 ratio on the pedals, his words "6-1 will work but 7-1 is lots better" I was trying to sort a similar problem to the original poster on another style vehicle, after we sorted the ratio and changed the cylinder diameters it all came good. Very few people left in the trade now that worked on un boosted systems back in the day.

Slowville, What size are the calliper pistons?

 

Have no idea. Never touched them. I have no info on it other than what ive seen and done myself. And im out of state for the week so itll be several days till i get back. Was just trying fo get some ideas of what i needed to look at when i got back.

 

You can try this, but it is not something you would normally do. Since the front brakes are minimal, probably for skinnies, swap the lines from the master cylinder, front to rear and rear to front. I won't get into pressure and volume, but that is what will change. Some T's run rear brakes only, so if your major braking moves from the front to the rear, it might be acceptable. Too much rear brake and poor traction can lead to 180's.

 

I went with wildwood four piston front brakes and two piston jag. I have a three quarter inch master cylinder for the jag rearend and one inch for the front with a balance bar setup similar to a race car setup. Works very well. I did have to change the pivot point to get the braking power I wanted. I'm running five wide and thirteen wide tires. The pedal only moves about one and half inch.

 

This helped alot. Removed the pedal and built a short extension. Also it wasnt idling right so it had to idle at over 1000 to stay running and its got a really tight converter so it was trying to push through the brakes. So i rebuilt the carb and got it bolted on and got the idle tuned and idling down to 600 like it should be and that helped the brakes alot as well.