Brian's Bucket Build

[BrianD]

Well, I finally got it on the road. Runs great, but stopping is difficult. Takes a lot of brake pressure. The pedal feels good. I'm going to go over the brakes one more time to rule them out. I believe I need a higher stall converter,so I'm looking for recommendations. I have a 305 sbc with an edelbrock performer cam and intake,600 holley. Other than that it's basically stock. The trans is a stock TH350 with a 2200-2600 stall converter. I know you guy's will need a lot more info, so ask away and I'll get it for you. I'm thinking around 3000 rpm. Also I tried to calibrate my speedometer and could not. I rechecked all of the wiring and it was good. Took off the sender and it tested good. Removed the driven gear and it was good.However there was no drive gear on the output shaft. Guess what I'm doing this morning? Next step is a windshield and mirrors.

 

[Spanky]

That looks awesome, Brian. I like those seats. Re: brake issue - have you checked your pedal ratio? It can make a big difference.

 

[PotvinGuy]

Converters are a crap shoot. I wouldn't spend $$$ on fancy ones. This one from Jegs: JEGS 60401: Torque Converter for GM TH350/TH400 | JEGS would likely do the job for you. My mild SBC uses a similar one. Too low a stall and you have to stand on the brakes. Too high and the converter slips more and makes more heat. Advertised stall speeds are highly suspect; without knowing your motor's torque it's not possible to know the stall.

 

[old round fart]

When coming to a stop put it in neutral to rule out torque converter.

 

[Indycars]

I have a 305 sbc with an edelbrock performer cam

Really need to know the cam specs...... lift and duration. What RPM does it idle at in neutral?

 

[BrianD]

Really need to know the cam specs...... lift and duration. What RPM does it idle at in neutral?

Hope this helps,

duration as advertised intake:278 exhaust:288
duration at .050 intake:204 exhaust:214
lift@cam(lobe) intake:0.28"exhaust:0.295"
lift@valve intake:0.42" exhaust:0.442"
lobe separation: 112deg intake centerline: 107deg

I'm not positive of the idle speed, I believe it was around 900-1000rpm. The tach needle was bouncing quite abit,something else I have to address. I have the trans apart fixing the speedo gear right now so I can't start it to check, maybe tomorrow.

 

[BrianD]

That looks awesome, Brian. I like those seats. Re: brake issue - have you checked your pedal ratio? It can make a big difference.

I haven't checked the specs on the pedal assembly, but I assume it's correct since I got it from RPM. Also, the seats are smittybilt for a jeep wrangler, they fit perfect in my bigboy body and are very comfortable.

 

[RPM]

Well, I finally got it on the road. Runs great, but stopping is difficult. Takes a lot of brake pressure. The pedal feels good. I'm going to go over the brakes one more time to rule them out. I believe I need a higher stall converter,so I'm looking for recommendations. I have a 305 sbc with an edelbrock performer cam and intake,600 holley. Other than that it's basically stock. The trans is a stock TH350 with a 2200-2600 stall converter. I know you guy's will need a lot more info, so ask away and I'll get it for you. I'm thinking around 3000 rpm. Also I tried to calibrate my speedometer and could not. I rechecked all of the wiring and it was good. Took off the sender and it tested good. Removed the driven gear and it was good.However there was no drive gear on the output shaft. Guess what I'm doing this morning? Next step is a windshield and mirrors.

View attachment 15050 View attachment 15051

Looks great, You did a nice job

 

[PotvinGuy]

I'm not positive of the idle speed, I believe it was around 900-1000rpm. The tach needle was bouncing quite abit,something else I have to address. I have the trans apart fixing the speedo gear right now so I can't start it to check, maybe tomorrow.

Is that an HEI I see? The advance curve on a stock HEI is way slow for us, not getting all in until 4000 or more. But you can get a kit to fix it: JEGS HEI Advance Curve Kit | JEGS And how much initial advance are you using? Any vacuum advance? If not, you might consider something like this: JEGS 40002: HEI Distributor For Small Block & Big Block Chevy | JEGS Honest, I don't get paid to push Jegs, I'm sure Speedway and others have similar. Vacuum advance is very good for the street. But always connect it to manifold vacuum, not ported.

Of course you can set the idle to whatever you like. But keep it below the start of the advance curve so the two don't interact, or you'll never get a steady idle.

 

[tfeverfred]

Well, I finally got it on the road. Runs great, but stopping is difficult. Takes a lot of brake pressure. The pedal feels good. I'm going to go over the brakes one more time to rule them out. I believe I need a higher stall converter,so I'm looking for recommendations. I have a 305 sbc with an edelbrock performer cam and intake,600 holley. Other than that it's basically stock. The trans is a stock TH350 with a 2200-2600 stall converter. I know you guy's will need a lot more info, so ask away and I'll get it for you. I'm thinking around 3000 rpm. Also I tried to calibrate my speedometer and could not. I rechecked all of the wiring and it was good. Took off the sender and it tested good. Removed the driven gear and it was good.However there was no drive gear on the output shaft. Guess what I'm doing this morning? Next step is a windshield and mirrors.

View attachment 15050 View attachment 15051

I had the same engine/trans combo in my first car. But I had a stock cam and a stock converter. I had no issues with "stop light creep". I'd check your brakes and the pedal ratio.

 

[BrianD]

Vacuum advance is very good for the street. But always connect it to manifold vacuum, not ported.

I'm running 8 deg advanced(vacuum hose disconnected) I was under the impression that it should be connected to ported vacuum. If I connect to manifold, what should the timing be set at? I haven't worked worked on anything but EFI in the last 30 years.

 

[PotvinGuy]

I'm running 8 deg advanced(vacuum hose disconnected) I was under the impression that it should be connected to ported vacuum. If I connect to manifold, what should the timing be set at? I haven't worked worked on anything but EFI in the last 30 years.

I run 20 initial, 15 speed and 15 vacuum, and my crate SBC purrs like wifey after a box of wine. Ported vacuum was a 1970s govt emissions "fix." It gives no advance at idle and your motor idles rough and hot and is generally unhappy. Manifold vacuum gives you full vacuum advance at idle, so total advance is initial+vacuum. In my case that is 35º. Naturally you want to be alert for pinging, and back off some advance if that happens. Our motors aren't identical, so what works for me might not be ideal for you. Here's an excellent article written by a genius: Timing for Dummies

 

[DonnyRay]

I have successfully posted photos that are 900 x 675 kb. here's a sample.

 

[rubicon]

Like what I see so far. Post more pics of the seats.

 

[BrianD]

Well I readjusted my timing as per PotvinGuy instructions. Wow, what a difference, it idles smoother now at 800 rpm in neutral and 600 in drive. I don't think my braking problem is a TC problem, still weak breaking even if I shift into neutral when braking. I need to get someone here to lend me a foot, then I'll bleed the brakes again. I found a drive gear for the trans and now I can tell how fast I'm going. Put a few mores miles on it this morning, boy this thing is fun to drive.

 

[T-Test]

Just wait until the young girls want to get in wearing mini skirts!!

 

[T-Test]

And they want your help!!

 

[BrianD]

My brother and I going on a short ride. Boy, do we make Ron's bigboy body look small.

 

[Island Girl]

Just wait until the young girls want to get in wearing mini skirts!!

Ohhhh My . . . . .

Hadn't thought about that . . .


Lookin' really sweet there Brian!

 

[PotvinGuy]

Ah, the bugs in the teeth, the wind whistling through your tattoo...it doesn't get much better than this. Well, maybe this: