Brian's Bucket Build
- Thread starter BrianD
- Start date
Indycars
Well-Known Member
I didn't think the cam was big enough that it should idle at a 1000 rpm, but I just couldn't be sure
until you posted the cam specs. Now that idle speed sounds reasonable.
So how do you feel about the torque converter, now that the idle is much lower?
BrianD
Member
I don't think the TC is my braking problem, I still need to bleed them again. (waiting for an extra foot) Maybe I don't have a problem and I'm just used to power brakes.
Neshkoro
Well-Known Member
You can bleed the brakes by yourself. I bought one of those brake bleeders from Harbor Freight. It was a piece of crap. I ended up cutting a board to the correct length to wedge between the steering column and the brake pedal while it was depressed. It's a lot of running back and forth. But it works. Crack open the bleeder, press the pedal, insert the stick, close the bleeder, remove stick. Repeat until you have a good pedal. It doesn't matter if a foot is pushing and holding the pedal down, or the stick. It works.
Indycars
Well-Known Member
Ok, I thought you were having trouble holding it at the stop light. Yaw, you're right, the TC will
never effect your stopping ability until you get below about 3 mph.
Good to see you got one problem behind you and on to the next one!
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BrianD
Member
Well I rebleed the brakes, no air. I'm assuming this is not a normal braking condition. I really have to stand on the brakes just to slow down.I don't feel safe driving like this. Now, I haven't driven a car without power bakes in along time, I don't remember it being this difficult to stop, especially on such a light car. I got the brake kit from RPM, I believe it was a speedway kit. I researched their kit and they say the pads are organic and not metallic. The organic pads should increase stopping force. I'm confused. Any ideas?
Organic pads should increase the stopping force as you said, they generally just need replacing sooner than the others. You do not need power brakes to stop a T-bucket, check the brake pedal ratio. It should be around 7:1 or greater. Got any residual or proportioning valves in the line? There are those who will tell you that they are necessary, there are just as many who never use them and have the same amount of success. I have none of the above and things work just fine. I assume you have disc brakes all around, hence the mention of pads. If the bleeders on your calipers are not at the TOP of the fluid reservoir they will not bleed properly. My calipers are mounted in a way that the bleeders are not at the very top and I have to take the calipers off the car to bleed the brakes the old fashioned way. Using a vacuum bleeder also solves this problem.
BrianD
Member
The brake pedal ratio appear to be around 7:1. I have disc on the front and S-10 axle with drums on the rear. I'm not sure what the bore is on the M/C, I got it with the brake kit from RPM, so Ron if you can chime in here if you remember what you sent me.I also have residual valves on the front and rear and a proportioning valve on the rear (tried with valve all the way and in all the way out, made no difference). The pedal feels good, not spongy. I guess my next step will be removing the valves that people say I don't really need, I put them on figuring what would it hurt.
Indycars
Well-Known Member
Does this mean that you bought the wheel cylinder and MC from Ron ? What does the kit consist of?
If so then the piston diameters of the wheel cylinder and MC can't be the problem.
Island Girl
Well-Known Member
You did mention having drums in the rear when you bought the kit . . . .?
Does the MC have a larger and a smaller reservoir?
Be sure the larger one is for the front, disks take a greater fluid volume than the little wheel cylinders on drums.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
As "bleeding" goes...... I use these. Can't be beat. A TRUE one person process.
Introduction - Speed Bleeders - Russell Performance Products
Introduction - Speed Bleeders - Russell Performance Products
Indycars
Well-Known Member
Don't tell my wife, it's the only time I can get her involved !!! .... except for cruising.
choppedtop
Well-Known Member
Speed bleeders rule. I also had and used one of the cheapo bleeders from Speedway. It was well worth the 9 or 10 bucks. Had brakes bled the first complete circle.
Check the residual valves to make sure they are not on backwards. And that they are the correct pressure for disc or drum.
The prop valve shouldn't be a problem. And the only way to test it is driving on a wet surface so you can see which end locks up first.
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
You can bleed them alone, put Teflon or thread sealant on the bleeders, use a piece of vacuum line or clear plastic line that fits over the bleeder snug, use a plastic brake fluid can with enough fluid to cover the line, attach the hose to the bleeder and put the other end in the bottle, immersed in fluid, loosen the bleeder and pump. Bleed them furthest to closest to the master. The fluid in the catch bottle will act as a check valve, the thread sealant prevents air from getting in on the back stroke... it works perfect, I’ve done it this way for years. A clear hose, like aquarium hose, etc, will let you watch the air bubbles if you need a visual.
BrianD
Member
Well I took a break from the t for awhile. Since then I replaced the bleeders with speed bleeders. The pedal feels a little better, It is right on top and very solid, not spongy. It still stops like crap. I know I'm not used to manual brakes, but this is scary. I took it for a nice drive today and at about 50mph I jammed on the brakes and only the r/f locked up. When I got to my buddies house, lives on a dirt road, I jammed on the brakes and both fronts locked up, but nothing from the rears. I know the rears work because I can't turn the wheels when it's jacked up and the brakes are applied. I believe the m/c is a 1 1/8" bore, do you think maybe I need a 1" bore.
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