CCR frame plans
- Thread starter 11290
- Start date
Leon renaud
Member
I'd like a copy of those plans as well willing to exchange a copy of the several different T sets I have11290 said:
all-world1
Member
11290, you may want to get a set of Youngster plans and compare. The CCR plans call for 2"x3"x tubing and most other plans I've seen, including youngster's use 1 1/2" x 3". I also like his tapered rails at the front with the 2" crossmember....proportionally correct.
The biggest thing that effects the length of the front hairpins is the type of steering box you use. Personally, it's hard to beat a Corvair box. They are tough enough to stand up to the use it will get in a T and small enough to eliminate a lot of clearance problems. The Vega box has to be mounted toward the front of the frame and with most frames being built so low, ground clearance becomes a problem. I did a swap on a T last summer for just that reason.
With that said, you want to set up your hairpins so the steering box is right above the frame hairpin mount. That way both the hairpin and the drag link will swing in an identical arc, greatly reducing bump steer.
The rear hair pins should ideally have the frame mounts in line with the front u-joint of your drive shaft. Depending on the trans and wheelbase of the chassis, they can get to be very short. You can fudge a little on this length because of the slip yoke at the trans. Another option would be a 4 bar setup.
You really want to use 3/8'' stock for the axle hairpin mount. For the frame hairpin mount, if your chassis is low, you might want to go through the frame rail. In that case sleeve the frame rail with a piece of tubing. If the mount hangs below the frame rail, double up on the plates and use a piece of tubing to keep the bolt for the bushing stable. 1/4'' stock will be fine for these mounts.
Sorry, didn't mean to get so long winded.
With that said, you want to set up your hairpins so the steering box is right above the frame hairpin mount. That way both the hairpin and the drag link will swing in an identical arc, greatly reducing bump steer.
The rear hair pins should ideally have the frame mounts in line with the front u-joint of your drive shaft. Depending on the trans and wheelbase of the chassis, they can get to be very short. You can fudge a little on this length because of the slip yoke at the trans. Another option would be a 4 bar setup.
You really want to use 3/8'' stock for the axle hairpin mount. For the frame hairpin mount, if your chassis is low, you might want to go through the frame rail. In that case sleeve the frame rail with a piece of tubing. If the mount hangs below the frame rail, double up on the plates and use a piece of tubing to keep the bolt for the bushing stable. 1/4'' stock will be fine for these mounts.
Sorry, didn't mean to get so long winded.
Keeper
Active Member
Sorry to bump an old post but I was searching for radius rod lengths and came across this thread.
Couple things. I am using the ccr plans for most of the brackets and mounts but when I seen the length of the radrods I got a bit confused, all the other rods I see are 24-36 inches and the CCR ones are 51?
I understand that "proper" setup would have the draglink and the radrods the same length. But what is really practicle?
Do you mount your steering box first then determine the rod lengths? Or do you just pick up something off the shelf and go from there?
Couple things. I am using the ccr plans for most of the brackets and mounts but when I seen the length of the radrods I got a bit confused, all the other rods I see are 24-36 inches and the CCR ones are 51?
I understand that "proper" setup would have the draglink and the radrods the same length. But what is really practicle?
Do you mount your steering box first then determine the rod lengths? Or do you just pick up something off the shelf and go from there?
Ted Brown
Member
If you want a roaster that WORKS.. stick to the CCR plans as stated, long radius rods and all, as they work great! and look a ton better than short rods, sorry to say.. but that is my view and my plans, and I am sticking to them, anyone want to try and stay with me on any type of road are more than welcome, about the only competiton I have ever found was a track sprint race car... I have over 200.000 miles on them Long rods, they work and give the best traction, shorter bars are not right for the T Bucket. You do what you like, I know what I like and what works... and what does not...
blownt
Member
there is NOTHING at all wrong with CCR's radius rods. They are made long to reduce bumpsteer. I have had the CCR rods I made from their plans since I built the car in 1991. I did add a gusset halfway and I would advise anybody else to do it.
Another thing is your pitman arm length should be lengthened to put the draglink angle in approximatly the same plane as the radius rod. That way they move just about parallel to each other.
I have driven buckets with short radius rods and I prefer the CCR type more. But that is my opinion.
Another thing is your pitman arm length should be lengthened to put the draglink angle in approximatly the same plane as the radius rod. That way they move just about parallel to each other.
I have driven buckets with short radius rods and I prefer the CCR type more. But that is my opinion.
jeffery
New Member
Does anyone out here on this site have a set of the CCR plans that i can download? I just bought the 2x3 by.188 wall thickness and want to get started on the mitering of the frame. I have a copy of the Spirit set if anyone would like to take a look at them.Just let me know and thanks guys for the help and the site.I just hope one of these days i can contribute to the site as you all have.I have also been looking for the 1964 car craft magazine that started on the t build.Not found it yet online nor a copy of the magazine 
Keep up the good work here and the information too
Keep up the good work here and the information too
Ted Brown
Member
The only upgrades I would make to the CCR plans today is, I now use a much longer front spring, 20" longer, and it runs between the radius rods, no falling to the ground if anything fails, and a much smoother ride... and I mount the rear springs (coil) in front of the rear end, much better leverage... The only reason I have added a bit of length to my pitman arm, is to make it steer a lot shorter... as far as traction goes, when you can build a AG/Supercharged car to beat one of mine, I will change mine... I could flat foot my big block chevy out of the gate, and not spin a tire, with that engine, I never lost a drag race, never, by anything... I also happen to like the look, but it is your car, you do what makes you happy.. no braces are needed in the radius rods if you use 1"x .188 min, wall,, and 4 bar type bushings at all ends, I use no solid ends like Heims on radius rods... Just me... 
Hot Rod Todd
Member
Ted,
I know you designed the CCR frame way back, but is the one they are selling, the same as the one under your bucket?
Or have you done improvements since your original?
I have a rear ladder bar setup and with the blown big block, it hardly smokes the tyres. just hunkers down and goes!
I know you designed the CCR frame way back, but is the one they are selling, the same as the one under your bucket?
Or have you done improvements since your original?
I have a rear ladder bar setup and with the blown big block, it hardly smokes the tyres. just hunkers down and goes!
Ted Brown
Member
Todd, to tell you the truth, I need to read over their new plans to see if they have changed tube sizes, etc. maybe to the heaver frame= 2x3x.188 & heaver, bigger=1" radius rods.Hot Rod Todd said:Ted,
I know you designed the CCR frame way back, but is the one they are selling, the same as the one under your bucket?
Or have you done improvements since your original?
I have a rear ladder bar setup and with the blown big block, it hardly smokes the tyres. just hunkers down and goes!
I run my coils in front of my rear end, I changed it when I put in the BBC engine, just wanted to make sure there would be no tire burning, as that slows you down and gets all the wrong type of attention... "I" sure do not want to be known as a squirrel.. hehe and that is not safe.
If your T is squatting in the rear, the rear bars should be a bit shorter, not too much, if you balance it on a set of stands, you will see where the mount should be.. (but be sure you have all the weight you have while driving, most of the time) E me for more info if you need.. Ted
jeffery
New Member
So Ted you are the one and only person responsable for making the plans for the CCR plans. Which i like the one i was able to get and am going to use this design too. I like the information you have provided me to read and it seems to me that you are and have built a lot and have had a great time doing this too! Do you have a picture of the rearend setup with the coils in front of the rearend? I want this one im building to hook up and out run a few of the hipo mustangs that run down Lindeburg here in missouri.The last time i need is to melt the tires off and not bet these teenagers to the next light.I so want to show these kids that old guys can have fun too 
My email address is: vhable3201@sbcglobal.net
Thanks to you all on this forum!!!!!
Vince
My email address is: vhable3201@sbcglobal.net
Thanks to you all on this forum!!!!!
Vince
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