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Centech Fuse Panel

jimbo01

Member
I was wondering if anyone has used the Centech fuse panel that So Cal sells? I'm looking into fuse panels and came across this one and I like the clean look that this one offers. It doesn't look like it comes with wire which could be considered a draw back and will add to the cost. The link is listed below and I'm just looking for some feed back as to your thoughts.

http://www.est1946.com/centechfusepanels.aspx?page=2
 
Jimbo
Check out EZ wire
They have a complete harness for about that price
Their customer service is at RPM's standard also
 
Jimbo
Check out EZ wire
They have a complete harness for about that price
Their customer service is at RPM's standard also

Nothing has been ruled out so far. I've also looked at RPM's Rebel kit. I've always had great service & parts from Ron and I know if I bought his kit he would be there for me.
 
Well, since you were wanting the wire with the boxes, theres alot of wiring kits out there. You can get all you want from Painless. Yes, their products are more, but if you want cheap, go the Aux. panel route and do it all yourself. T's is often cramped for room, so I usually get things that are well built, and have a good many mounting screws.
I usually mount the panels on the back side of the dash on a hinge. When driving and going down the road, your shoes and feet won't accidently bump the block, snag wires, pulling them loose.
I get like a 4" hinge, mount to rear of dash, I leave about 4" extra wire so the fuse block can swing down. When the block is in the up position, I cut a 4"x4" piece of velcro, put it where the hinge folds onto its-self, it'll stay tucked under. I use the good industrial quality stuff, and put a counple of small screws thru the velcro so the heat won't allow the thing to fall down. That way you don't have to stand on your head to change fuses....you can sit in your seat and check things out....
Another option is a cut down thick rubber bungie cord attaching to 2 hooks, one on either side of the fuse block. Personally, I like the velcro....
I even have a LED light illuminating the box once it drops. Wait till you blow a fuse at night like I did....not fun. I'm too damn old to be standing on my head, trying to find which fuse has blown....
 
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I installed that Centech fuse panel to replace the old panel with glass fuses and have been happy with it. I didn't use the cover, so I spent more that I had to because they offer the same panel without a cover at a lower price. I liked the flexibility of using some of the exiting wire and being able to connect it to the screw terminals. Since my wiring is old and has several different colors and no printed labels like the nice kits offered by Painless and others, I, used wrap around wiring numbers I bought at Lowe's. Not as easy to trace wires but cheaper if you put the numbers in several locations along the wire. I also modified the Centech panel and added an additional fuse panel because I over-engineered the wiring system with a Speedway turn signal panel (no lever on the steering column), relays, circuit breakers, and fuses for everything. As many of us have, I had experienced electrical problems in the past and wanted to avoid them - my rewiring has been successful so far with no problems. I needed more fuses than available on the Centech panel, so I bought a small marine panel with screw terminals for that. I have also used marine wiring components for wiring mods on my daily driver would recommend them if you don't need a complete kit or want something that is moisture resistant. I also have the hinged panel like Screaming Metal with longer wires when the panel is down. I am getting too old and stiff to stand on my head under the dash of these little cars and this helps to avoid that. I used a piano hinge on the back (firewall side) and hold the front in place with screws through the lower part of the dash into nutserts on an aluminum 90 degree el on the front of the panel. I like the LED light idea and will be adding that. As we all know, there is very limited space for wiring (or anything else) in a T-Bucket but I wanted to keep my wiring components under the dash rather under the seat and was able to do that even though it is crowded. I use a lot of zip ties, split loom and velcro to keep everything in place.
 

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