Changing dimension due to tubing size

[Jorrunn]

I really enjoy studying the plans for the T Bucket frame,and to help me better understand them I CAD them. I came across a line that says I will have tomake dimension adjustments based on tubing size. I have figured out some so far, but am notsure about the frame width.

If the plan say to make the rear cross member 22 7/8”long, but that is for using 1 ½” x 3” tubing. If I us 2” X 3” tubing, do I make the cross member 23 7/8” long to maintainthe between frame dimension, or do I make it 22 7/8” long to maintain theoutside frame dimension?

 

[Youngster]

If you're building a straight ladder frame as the plans discribe makr the crossmember 22 7/8" long. You want to keep the outside of the rails at 23" or so. I would be interested in seeing you CAD version.

Ron

 

[RPM]

We use 2 x 3 tube in our frames, but we build them 26 1/2" wide. This extra inch or so gives you some much needed room for alternators, starters, and fuel pumps. One of the first frames we built for our self many years ago was narrow and when we set the engine in with the starter on it, it only had about .050 between the frame and starter. This was a 400 sbc and it took the big flywheel and had to run the bigger starter. During mock up we did not think about that. It was mocked up with no starter on it. I have also seen where you could not get the stock fuel pump on because there was not enough room.

 

[Youngster]

Get your body before you build the frame. The critical measurement is the firewall. That will be the max wideth of the frame unless you want to notch the cowl sides. They do tend to vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.

The reason for the 23" wideth in the plans was in case someone wanted to use a '15 style body.

Ron

 

[RPM]

Get your body before you build the frame. The critical measurement is the firewall. That will be the max wideth of the frame unless you want to notch the cowl sides. They do tend to vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.

The reason for the 23" wideth in the plans was in case someone wanted to use a '15 style body.

Ron

Good point there Ron. We just do 23 and 27 frames.

 

[Jorrunn]

Most of the ten files/drawing I have made are to large to attach. I have included one of them. I am by far not the best at CADing, engineering, or mechanics. I do hope you find the PDF helpful, and if you want more, or something made, let me know.

 

[blownt]

I built my frame using the CCR plans but I narrowed the front crossmember 1" to allow for the 1915 body firewall. That was a BIG mistake. You will find very few alternators that will fit a narrowed frame if you mount the alt low. Go with the stock width frame and if you have a 15 body just notch the lower firewall alittle more to fit the frame.

I happened to find a Honda Civic alt kit by Enos that worked good but Enos does not make it anymore. There are some small race alternators but they are BIG BUCKS.

 

[Jorrunn]

One more of my CAD

 

[Jorrunn]

And another

 

[Jorrunn]

And another.

Getting back to my question, it's better to maintane the distance between the frame when adjusting for tubes size? 1 1/2 x 3 tube is 22 7/8 long for 19 7/8 betwenn the rails, so for 2 x 3 tube I adjust the length to 23 7/8 to keep 19 7/8 between?

 

[2old2fast]

Remember to plan for your radiator of choice & your grille shell , My frame is 2x3 , 24" outside at the crossmember, had to get pretty creative to fit the rad & grille shell, have about 1/2 " clearance at the fuel pump , very little space for a low mount alt. ,But I did work that out also , The more time you spend planning , the less hassle later, {like most stuff!!!] , Dave

 

[Youngster]

The CAD work looks terrific! You want to maintain at least 20" or so between the rails. If you're using a '23 body then you can open that up some. Again, having the body handy answers many questions.

Ron

 

[Youngster]

If you make the front cross member out of 2 1/2" tube you can wrap the excess tube from the side rails around the cross member for a very nice finished look.


Ron

 

[GAB]

 

[Jorrunn]

I was thinking too, that if the front member was thru the rail, with open ends, I could make some kind oc cap for it. Kinda like a metal fence post cap. I work in a machine shop, but not a machinist.

 

[Youngster]

Just like that GAB.

I might add, those plans where meant to be a starting point for those who wanted to build thier own frame. Please feel free to change or modify them to suit your own purpose.

Ron

 

[Jorrunn]

So, where might be the best place to order a body and front suspension from?

 

[EX JUNK]

So, where might be the best place to order a body and front suspension from?

Check with Ron at RPM. He is a sponsor here and an all around great guy. He can fix you up with any and all of your needs.

Jim

 

[RPM]

Thanks Jim.


Yes we have all those parts and we do ship to Canada.

 

[benT]

Thanks Jim.


Yes we have all those parts and we do ship to Canada.

Also note that RPM can take your cad drawings of brackets and cut them on his CNC plasma cutter and weld them on your axle. k: