Completely clueless in Utah

[RodStRace]

I had not looked recently, just decided to yesterday and that popped up.
Sorry to hear you didn't even get a chance.
If you are serious, you have to be ready to jump on deals like that. That was one of the best I've seen in a while.

Get your funds and transportation in order and keep looking. That will help you decide what's a deal for you, price and car wise.

 

[RodStRace]

This is the next highest one at almost double and SBC, not complete nor running.

1923 ford for sale by owner - Soulsbyville, CA - craigslist

1923 ford fiberglass body roadster 90% complete.350 Chevy ,tunnel ram intake with edelbrock carburetor’s, 2 speed powerglide transmission , 9 inch ford differential with 389 gears and mini spool....

goldcountry.craigslist.org

or this collection of parts out east.

1923 T-Bucket body and rolling chassis - auto parts - by owner - vehicle automotive sale - craigslist

1923 T-Bucket body and rolling chassis for sale. Body is from the 1970’s and is solid. There are no holes in the dashboard or firewall. 4-wheel disc brakes set up. Solid boxed frame with straight...

spacecoast.craigslist.org

SBC not finished

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This one is Ford in better shape but double while still under 10K. Very good deal if it passes visual inspection.

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runs and drives, but SBC. That's about it for anywhere near you under 10K

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[Ferg Daddy]

We have been spending more time planning tropical vacations and less time talking about the car build. I can’t say I mind the vacation though. Cancun in January was heavenly.

 

[RodStRace]

Well, if you're not ready, you can research things.

 

[Ferg Daddy]

I’m on here everyday. Though most of what I read is way over my head.

 

[Buffman]

I think your wife is spot on and you will want one someday..........Trust me on that..............

Yep, doors
Remember, happy wife, happy life

 

[Ferg Daddy]

Crazy question…..is a 289 that doesn’t currently run worth $100 if it is complete and turns freely?

 

[RodStRace]

Like anything, it's worth what the buyer is willing to pay.
If you want a 289, check into rebuild kits and machining.
40 years ago, every town had a machine shop to rebuild engines. Most are gone. If you have something local, do NOT expect them to provide a solid price because there are so many variables. If your heads need all guides, exhaust seats, surfacing and you include new valves, springs and keepers, you are often near or above the price for new aftermarket heads. They will not know what your parts require without cleaning, crack checking and inspection. If they are good, expect a waiting line.

Also check into short blocks and long blocks at your local auto parts store and online. Beware of poor rebuilds.
I'd bet most only offer 302s due to lack of buildable cores.
EXAMPLE one of the most stock long blocks, 300 HP. 3640 plus 550 core and shipping. That's 4 thousand dollars.

https://www.jegs.com/p/ATK-Engines/ATK-HP-Crate-Engines-Small-Block-Ford-302ci-300HP-336TQ/5133244/10002/-1

If you can't rebuild one for less and/or better, this is the benchmark to beat. You have a warranty, a complete ready to go package. No running around and keeping track of everything and unsure of final cost.

The low buck way would be to find a good used engine and just run it. That requires you to know if that lump on the floor is viable before you buy.
You say complete in your question. Air cleaner to oil pan? Fan and belts to starter and flexplate? All parts that you will be using or can sell off and replace with what you want? To be realistic, most T owners put on less than ten thousand miles a year. Most probably less than half that. A used engine will last for years with such little use, provided it's taken care of and stored well.

That 4k engine is 500 less than that complete car I posted before. It's about half of the other one that I posted here.

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Everybody has a budget, you need to research the bits and know what each bit is worth, and how to tell if it meets your needs then follow thru by actively looking for those parts daily. Expect some stuff to be difficult to find at a bargain price. Expect the 'one part at a time' to take many years. Also expect it to cost at least double what you expect, unless you are very good, make no mistakes and are dilligent in tracking deals down.

The cheapest way to get into one is to determine what you want and find a complete car that meets those needs.
The second cheapest is to have the skills and knowledge and tools/space to build yourself. I say second, because if you include paying yourself for the time since you have the space, tools and knowledge you could be earning money rather than doing it as a hobby. I understand that hobbys do not pay.

BTW, the buy one VS build is what I did. I have the experience to be able to look at that 289 and be a fairly good judge of it's condition. I have a garage and tools.

Thread 'New member AZ old T-Bucket revival'

Aug 4, 2025

Well, it took a while but finally got thru.
Occasional visitor, regular over on that other site, same user name.
Here's what I got a little over a year ago. Sadly no history. Signs point to a 60s build.

After a year of tackling repairs, it's more like this.

• RodStRace
• Replies: 19
• Forum: Introductions

• 

 

[death trap]

Could someone possibly put together a ballpark list of what a build might cost? Like broken down by groups of components. For example: Engine, transmission, suspension, wheels and tires, body, frame, electrical, miscellaneous. Or more broken out than that if it makes sense. My wife has given me a budget of about $12k-$15k (which means $15k of course). I’m just trying to plan ahead. For instance, if you guys think the body would be like $1500-$2000 and I find one for like $1200, then I know I’m kind of ahead of the game. Or like "don't pay more than $XXX for your donor vehicle, I will know what to set as my top price when shopping for that. I just want to make sure I’m in the right range for things. I know there is no exact science to this, that’s why I said ballpark. Perhaps some of you that have done this know what it cost you. It would be interesting to hear from some of you that have done it with more of a kit build and some of you that have done it as more of a full custom build as well. If something like this has been posted already, a link to the thread would be great.

Perhaps some of my likes and dislikes would help too. Not a big fan of radius arms, does that steer me in one direction versus another? I would like to make my own frame. I'm not a welder, but I can certainly cut tubes and get things ready for someone to weld. I just think it might make more sense to design the frame to fit exactly how I want it to. I definitely like wide rear tires, does that help me narrow down my potential donor vehicle?

For my job I use Solidworks about 90% of my day so I plan to mock up a lot of my main components (frame, body, engine) on the computer to get my spacing for things down, though I do no real life does not exist on a computer screen. I can however 3D print my small brackets and things to get a real world idea of how they are going to fit.

In my mind, my build started yesterday. I began cleaning the garage. LOL. My wife didn't even complain. I'm not sure she knows what can of worms I am opening.

 

[death trap]

Crazy question…..is a 289 that doesn’t currently run worth $100 if it is complete and turns freely?

I started mine 3 years ago. Built the frame, used a stock Ford axle, and s10 rear end, bought a nos body from an abandoned project, used a short block that was taken out of a couple for a better one. I scimped and bought used and on sale where I could. Only farmed out paint and interior. Powder coated the frame and front axle radius rods ect. I'm at 30 k . How you ask? It costs that much.

 

[Ferg Daddy]

I started mine 3 years ago. Built the frame, used a stock Ford axle, and s10 rear end, bought a nos body from an abandoned project, used a short block that was taken out of a couple for a better one. I scimped and bought used and on sale where I could. Only farmed out paint and interior. Powder coated the frame and front axle radius rods ect. I'm at 30 k . How you ask? It costs that much.

Yikes. $30k? I’m not sure I’d be able to justify spending that much….to my wife, or to myself.

 

[RodStRace]

Since Death Trap posted his cost, I'll say that mine shown in my last post has cost just about the basic kit from CCR, which is not to disparage the kit. It's a good basic start, all brand new. It's also right at the 9500 Ford powered T I've mentioned twice. However, mine was rougher and needed work to 'run and drive', even though it was advertised that way.

20451 Basic Roadster Package, Standard T-Body

Printable Basic Package Flyer & Info #20451 Basic Roadster Package, Standard T-Body

shopcaliforniacustomroadsters.com

I'm currently finishing up on swapping to a single 4 bbl. I got a good used nearly new carb and an intake that was very cheap but needed repair. I'm into this for under the new price of the carb alone, including carb mounting hardware, a new thermostat housing and gaskets.
At this point, there are still things I want to change.
Currently looking for early 60s Studebaker valve covers with provisions for crankcase ventilation to replace those late model vortec things.
Also want to have mufflers, which means full used exhaust if I can find a deal. I do not have the talent or power in the garage to weld my own up.
Also the alt mount is poor. The one I want is 65 bucks, plus I have to swap to a water pump that has the provisions for the mount. So another 200 all in.
Also the wiring! It's going to be stripped out and redone completely, but it works for now.
That's why I say a complete car that is close to your vision is the quickest budget way to get in.

 

[RodStRace]

BTW, I did sell the as bought rear wheels and tires, still have those stupid fronts and have the TR setup that could be sold to put some money back in my pocket. I'm terrible at selling stuff, so it will probably join all the other stuff getting dusty in the garage.

 

[RodStRace]

more of a track roadster style, SBC

1926 Ford Model T Roadster for sale by owner - Los Angeles, CA - craigslist

1926 Ford Model T steel body roadster widened 3" to fit the Model A chassis it's on. Traditional-style build with modern reliability. • All steel body • Model A chassis • 305 Chevy V8 • Automatic...

losangeles.craigslist.org

another sbc, 8k without the expensive intake set up.

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[Pasthisprime]

I wanted one most of my life. I had looked at them and noted what I liked and didn't for a lot of that time.
In the end, I decided that while buying a new kit and building from there would make it exactly how I wanted, I could save money buying a project or done one and changing things at my own pace. I'm still under your budget and have driven mine quite a bit. I bought in May of 2024.

Be honest with yourself. Do you have the space, time, experience and tools to weld, bodywork, paint, upholster, assemble, wire and plumb a car?
Most T-buckets don't rely on a single donor car and the typical donor these days isn't a V8 carb'ed 3 speed auto with a narrow enough rear axle. Those are all gone or valued as a classic. So you will end up buying individual parts new or used and refurbishing.


I'd also suggest collecting as many pictures online as you can. It's free, it will help you to refine and define what you want and pick out the details that both you and your wife agree on. Wheels and colors can be changed, other things less easily. You will start to recognize which ones have the right 'bones' for you, just like a house.

The site sponsors have pricing on their sites. I have bought parts here and can only say good things about them.

Roadster Kits

Printable Deluxe Package Flyer & Info Printable Basic Package Flyer & Info PICTURE GALLERY California Custom Roadsters has been building and manufacturing T-Roadsters for almost 40 years. During this time, we have helped thousands of our customers to build or improve their Hot Rods along with...

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That eats up your stated budget.
The old advice is to buy a stalled project, but those don't come up much. It's more often a done car that has fallen out of favor or set aside.
I haunted a lot of online places while looking. Autotempest can aggregate them, but try to widen the search a bit to make sure you catch them all. I've seen them listed as 1915 to 1929, and all sorts of brands and models. It's usually 23 Ford, but cast a wide net to see them all.
If you want your wife happy and you aren't an exercise junkie, a door is a big improvement and adds value. This can be added to a standard body, but again requires skills.

Excellent advice!! The days of finding a V8 in the junkyard that isn’t EFI is long gone. You can convert them to carb. Best bet is just buy a Blueprint or Smeding crate engine

 

[RodStRace]

Thanks, Pasthisprime.
Here's all that info on the Ford I've posted. It has faults, but looks decent and is priced well. You might be able to talk it down. Been listed for 3 weeks.

1925 T-Bucket with built 302, c4 auto. runs and drives. $9,500 obo.


Here's what I see in the pics.
Minimal mismatched gauges, bundle of snakes wiring. Looks like a good shifter, has E-brake should check operation.
Seatback sticks above body. Basic wood plank dash. Radio hole. Basic side upholstery.

complete, matching wheels and tires, has another body in the background. Shows the seller has experience with these to some degree.
Radiator shell paint does not match the rest. No fancy rad cap in center. Looks like a decent angle to the steering column, but you would need to check your fit. Fuel tank is not custom for the car. Probably 8-10 gallons.


Drum front brakes, horn. chrome spring and modified front axle. Oversize overflow tank. Make sure it doesn't overheat.
Radiator is a bit narrow for the shell. Looks like a good size shop. Nice polished firewall.


Looks like long arm rear suspension. Unable to see springs or shocks. Unique tail lights. No license plate light.
There looks to be a bit of droop on driver's side, check springs and shocks as always.


No door, does not look like any baffles/mufflers, body channeled height of frame, Mustang in background, probably a Ford guy.
20 inch bed, not 14 inch. Snaps on body suggest having a top at some point. Old material for pattern or top bows too?
Front has split wishbone style arms. Home built headlight stands, ahead of radiator. Blue coating still on rear tire White Letters.
Windshield has upper pivot at top, appears in good shape. No support rods, which I'm told are a must for a full height windshield.

Mechanical fan, HEI distributor, single 4 bbl, stock engine dipstick, Lokar style trans dipstick,
Appears to have trans cooler in radiator. Wiring again not super clean. Throttle cable bent at carb mount (will wear).
Breathers in both valve covers. No PCV. Must have electric fuel pump, regulator is between firewall and carb.
Mechanical FP is left front on SBF. Flex upper hose. While old school, I would rather see a molded one that fits right.