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cooters T bucket build

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this is on top side. bottom of tub is tight. be easier to fiberglass bondo this void from this side. is this ok/
 
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my ply wood was warped. so I wet concave side and let sun shrink convex side. floor is flat now
 
What are going to use on the engine side of the firewall? Just finish and paint, or a cover of some sort? If it bothered me with that little warp, I would get it laid flat and glass in an metal angle on the backside to keep it flat. Maybe it could be put high enough as not to show. Carpet should cover it anyway.
Lee
 
I have 3/4 plywood im gonna put on inside of firewall. Thinkin bout aluminum on engine side.
 
I have 3/4 plywood im gonna put on inside of firewall. Thinkin bout aluminum on engine side.

Bondo/fiberglass plywood to inside fire wall as it stands on the fire wall--engine side on a flat surface. then put weights/cement blocks on the plywood and it will be flat when it cures.

On the gap in the floor sides, put strips of mat/cloth in the gap and then fill with resin. As strong as you can get IMHO Same for fire wall...
 
Bondo/fiberglass plywood to inside fire wall as it stands on the fire wall--engine side on a flat surface. then put weights/cement blocks on the plywood and it will be flat when it cures.

On the gap in the floor sides, put strips of mat/cloth in the gap and then fill with resin. As strong as you can get IMHO Same for fire wall...
So your sayin lay the 1 oz mat down in void and then fiberglass resin over that to fill void instead of the fiberglass bondo down in void. Been watching hot rod 101 video. Bob hamilton was showeing the process but my tub is reversed from his.
 
This video is confuseing for someone that doesnt know the lingo. He says fiberglass bondo and fiberglass mat. Bondo is a manufacturing name correct? Basically im gathering that fiberglass bondo is a filler with fiber strands. When he days fiberglass mat it is resin and the mat. I can do as t test said and just use resin and mat down in void.
 
Cooter Bondo is a brand, I used filler with the strand in it to install the wood on the sides of the body. As T- Test said cut the fiber glass mat in strips stack them up together to fill the void between the body and plywood then add the resin.
 
Make sure where ever you're going to glass that you grind that area to the fibers. Not just an 80 grit sanding. But like like 36 grit. Give it a good tooth for the new glass.

You can also mix up resin with chopped glass fibers to fill the gap. And then mat over that. I use this stuff a lot.

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Cooter Bondo is a brand, I used filler with the strand in it to install the wood on the sides of the body. As T- Test said cut the fiber glass mat in strips stack them up together to fill the void between the body and plywood then add the resin.
10-4....this fiberglass aint my thing... First time with this mat,resin. I patched a rusty spot in a car with bondo with fibers and screen door wire once but nothing like this. Thanks yall. Im learnin..
 
Where is good place to get my supplies?

You can get your filler at a local supplier like T-Test said. Your 1.5 or 2 oz. fiberglass mat and resin can be found on eBay.

Try to find non-waxed polyester general purpose resin. A gallon will go a long way. The waxed resin at the auto parts store is too thick and too expensive.

Do all of your gap filling for now, with a smooth transition from the floor to the side wall.

Then once that's locked in, tackle the fiberglass. Full oversized template cut pieces that will extend up the sidewall covering your filler work.

So from this photo-edge.jpg

-scribe a line with a sharpie 2-3" up onto the body and rough that area up good.

BIG TIP- sanding unwanted body filler is no fun and unnecessary. Mask the areas with duct tape. You'll be glad you did.

Also, any time you use mat type glass, take the time to feather the edges. Either by tearing or like this-
6-1-13 3.JPG

I just cut the pieces oversized, extend them over the edge of a table and comb the edges with a card file.
card file.jpg
 
This looks scary. So the duct tape keep me from getting it where it dont belong.fill void up level with floor and up body to duct tape line. Then use the glass mat over top of that up to tape line. I think i got it?
 
All you're trying to do w/ the filler is make a smooth transition , or fillet , from the floor to the body . It makes it much easier to lay the mat on a rounded surface than a sharp bend . If you don't have a resin roller , get one , makes it a bunch easier to wet out mat & get rid of air bubbles. Don't use more resin than it takes to wet-out the mat , too much resin actually is weaker..
dave
 
This looks scary. So the duct tape keep me from getting it where it dont belong.fill void up level with floor and up body to duct tape line. Then use the glass mat over top of that up to tape line. I think i got it?

Yes, tape off like an inch on either side and push the filler in.


All you're trying to do w/ the filler is make a smooth transition , or fillet , from the floor to the body . It makes it much easier to lay the mat on a rounded surface than a sharp bend . If you don't have a resin roller , get one , makes it a bunch easier to wet out mat & get rid of air bubbles. Don't use more resin than it takes to wet-out the mat , too much resin actually is weaker..
dave

Yup, your goal is 50/50 resin to reinforcement.
 
Cooter, can you push or move that firewall "irregularity" with a finger or two? Perhaps just sandwich it between the aluminum firewall cover and the inner plywood and add a little filler to even things out. Use the mounting bolts & spacing you would normally use on the firewall and after a week of setting up take everything apart. OR just leave it assembled, mask, and paint.

John
 
Watch your mixing ratios very carefully , X number of drops of hardener to X oz. of resin, too much hardener makes weak resin w/ little open time , too little it won't kick..
dave
A 6 oz. batch of resin is alot !!especially if you're learning how to use it..
 
Watch your mixing ratios very carefully , X number of drops of hardener to X oz. of resin, too much hardener makes weak resin w/ little open time , too little it won't kick..
dave
A 6 oz. batch of resin is alot !!especially if you're learning how to use it..

Yes, when using brushes, I pre fill two dozen or so 4oz. dixie cups. Each only 3/4 full. Grab and mix them as need.

When using 4" rollers on larger areas I'll mix up 16oz. at a time, and keep one of those frozen ice cooler deals under the roller tray. It gives a good 10 minutes more of working time.

Preparation is the key to glassing. Have everything ready. All of your glass already shredded, laid out and ready to go. Have your rollers already soaking in a container of acetone. Have several pairs of disposable gloves ready to change out. A few cheap brushes. A few stir sticks, etc.
 

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