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cooters T bucket build

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good as I can get it. got headers VHT painted.
 
Ron will build a tank to your specs. Just don't forget the height for the filler, and pickup/line.
 
If you can, sink 4 equidistant screws on each side to secure the bed's position. That way you can remove the bed when need-be to lay in the floor, electrical cables, fuel lines, specially constructed fuel tank, etc.
Noticed you painted the headers. Just itching to do something, huh?

Never put anything in stone til you want to get stoned. Body work last.

John
 
If you can, sink 4 equidistant screws on each side to secure the bed's position. That way you can remove the bed when need-be to lay in the floor, electrical cables, fuel lines, specially constructed fuel tank, etc.
Noticed you painted the headers. Just itching to do something, huh?

Never put anything in stone til you want to get stoned. Body work last.

John
So floor should be glassed first? Im settin here in shop with deer in headlight look. Maybe i should just go up front and focus on a radiator and hoses. This is where most people get bored and stop.
 
Contact Ron and see what your options are as far as the gas tank. Again take your time. Temp mount the radiator/rad shell to see where it will go and look the best.
Use tape to determine proper shell height.
I prefer a tight radiator/engine set up.
Don't worry 'bout the hoses right now.
Use the "short" water pump. Get good quality, Edelbrock, Stewart, Weiand, etc.
This period is more about fitment than installation.
In installing, fitting, and aligning the bed (great job BTW) you have found that these are NOT bolt together KIT CARS. Custom pieces need to be made. Time and thought must be invested.

About the VHT white headers. Should have asked before painting them. You must be functioning in the "forgiveness vs permission" mode. Ah well, the heart wants what the heart wants. Carry on.

John

P.S. Now that the bed is installed, take a look at the top of the bed and see how the line is going. Might need some work.
 
Cooter: here's how I've done it- I'm sure there are other opinions, but this worked well for us.

First, get the frame level and the put the body on the frame and do what you need to to get the body level and in the place where it is to be permanently. Then install the floor and glass it to the body along the perimeter on top sides first- several layers of glass/resin. Once that is set up a dried (least a day), you can put the body on its cowl and glass the bottom perimeter. I'd then do the firewall wood behind the cowl if you are doing that. Glass the perimeter again. One all that is finished, set the body and bolt it to the frame if you have the mounting tabs now. Once it is secured, you can set the bed. I used some self tapping screws through the body into the inner flange to attach the bed to body first. Then step back and make sure it's where you want it. Make sure that it's not only at the height you want, but that it's centered in the body and you don't spread the mounting ends at the body. Reposition, measure, measure again, step back and repeat till it's where you think it is perfect. Once you are COMPLETELY sure it's in the correct place, circle the final screws, remove them and I like using some short strand body filler to "bed" the range to the body and then reinsert the screws to pull it back together in the right place. Remove any excess filler ( use a finger to push it in and make a concave joint. After a day or so, you can then glass the inside flange to the body. Then once that's set up, you can cut and inset the wood floor and glass it in top/bottom like the floor of the body.

Seems like a lot of steps, but it's the order that makes sense to me. What's critical is that throughout the process you keep the body level and positioned. Bolt to the frame as soon as you can to keep the body in position as you do the bed. As with carpentry, measure everything twice before glassing.
 
I need to get the mounting tabs for body. If i glass the floor then plsce rubber on frame for anti squeek the body comes off frame thickness of rubber wich affects bed location. Bed can't come up because its touching the bottom of frame rail in rear. Ill have to notch bed to clear i guess. I tell ya, its like playing chess. 20 moves ahead. Everything affects everything. Thank yall for guidance.
 
I think you need to get the seat and steering column in it so you can sit in it and make "rum, rum" sounds and make steering motions with the steering wheel.

You know you want to.

John
 
Cooter, your build is coming along great. I've been out of town alot lately and haven't done much of anything except smoothing pieces when I get a free hour here and there. I'm impressed with how much you've accomplished and the quality of workmanship you are doing. Keep it up!!!
 
Cooter, your build is coming along great. I've been out of town alot lately and haven't done much of anything except smoothing pieces when I get a free hour here and there. I'm impressed with how much you've accomplished and the quality of workmanship you are doing. Keep it up!!!
im tryin. ran across a guy in franklin building one also. small world.
 
My floor is ready to glass in. Here is my question. There is a gap on top side between floorboard and glass body due to body radios. Should i fiberglass bondo first to fill this void and then fiberglass mat over that? Because when i flip body upside down to fiberglass bottom i wont be able to get to this void i speak of as thoroughly. If this makes since. Or should i post a pic?
 

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