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cooters T bucket build

Cooter, you might want to run a steel pipe loop in the dash area that could be used to mount the steering column/wheel.
That way you could mount the wheel in a more horizontal position that would fit your frame (you do have the seats, right?) and with a universal joint in the mix could more favorably mount the box.
Do not forget the rag joint & factory steering arm.

John
 
You are right, Corvairs didn't have one (it seems I mistook the Corvair with another rear engined car, the VW)), and the rag joints can not be used like a u-joint (must be used in a straight line with no deflection) but they do reduce vibration from road shock and can let a road trip be less tiring.
I stick with my recommendation on the stock, forged, factory steering arm. When I was visiting the HAMB there were articles about steering arm failures from using off shore steering arms.
Better safe than sorry.

John
 
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first trans tunnel and my first time with glass mat. 2 layers of 1.5 oz mat. I think ill give it another tomorrow?
 
You can grind out the high spots and fill the low spots.

But you'll need at least 2-3 more layers first to get to 3/16" thick. With 2 layers of 1 1/2 oz. it must be around an 1/8".

Just rough it up good everywhere and add more glass.
 
But see. Glassing is no big deal. Just lots of preparation.

You did well for your first time.
 
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my 1965 ford mustang 3 row radiator. now I can start saveing for the fiberglass shell. don't look like ill be driving this thing no time soon.
 
Cooter
I know its kinda late in your build to bring this up but I must.
I noticed that in a lot of your pics of the frame it does not look like you did much weld prep on the tubing or the flat stock.
Its very important that you remove all mill scale prior to fit up and welding. You will find that your beads will lay flatter and burn in better and you will get a sound weld.This is realy important with the mig process, stick electrode is more forgiving.
keep up the good work.
 
Cooter
I know its kinda late in your build to bring this up but I must.
I noticed that in a lot of your pics of the frame it does not look like you did much weld prep on the tubing or the flat stock.
Its very important that you remove all mill scale prior to fit up and welding. You will find that your beads will lay flatter and burn in better and you will get a sound weld.This is realy important with the mig process, stick electrode is more forgiving.
keep up the good work.
Explain more?
 
not much to explain. its best to clean the weld area before you fit up and weld.
if you take a grinder to the members to be welded and clean them so they shine. like what you did on the front end but befor you weld it
 
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well, I cut a 4" hole on my transmission tunnel..after drillin 1/4" holes in a circle cause I aint got a 4" hole saw...
 
I have found that transferring frame on top of floor with pencil has made life easier. still thinkin bout the brake pedal assembly? all my vw railbuggies had floor mounted pedal box. wonder how that would look? ill just go under floor I guess? also thought about hanging pedal from top? need seat and steering column on hand before I can do anything. funny how everything is affected by one or the other. what kind of braceing yall running under/behind dash for column and windshield?
 

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