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cooters T bucket build

Here's an example of the frame wider than the body, with the body channeledwider frame.jpg
 
This is the reason I and many other guys stress having the body first before building the frame.

Jim
 
CCR's bodies are made for that width of frame so they channel over the outside. Maybe that body is meant for a narrower frame?
As there is no floor you can just cut it out around the rails to the amount of channel you desire.

View attachment 11151

Just a brief sidetrack. What is the thickness of the aluminum on the firewall in that pic? The previous owner of my body made a sloppy and excessively large cutout for the transmission that I will need to hide. The material in the pic appears to be held on with only 5 perimeter. I was thinking I'd need a fastener every 3-4 inches, using 1/8" aluminum. I'd prefer the cleaner look of what's been done on that car.
 
Just a brief sidetrack. What is the thickness of the aluminum on the firewall in that pic? The previous owner of my body made a sloppy and excessively large cutout for the transmission that I will need to hide. The material in the pic appears to be held on with only 5 perimeter. I was thinking I'd need a fastener every 3-4 inches, using 1/8" aluminum. I'd prefer the cleaner look of what's been done on that car.

Zandoz: We used Aluminum about 3/16" or so thick and only have a few more mounting bolts than CCR used. Truthfully, we could have probably eliminated a few, but we like the look anyway. We'll be using carriage bolts with the heads smoother to give a riveted look.
 
Widening the body at this stage is really easy if that's an option. I can run you through it.
 
Zandoz: We used Aluminum about 3/16" or so thick and only have a few more mounting bolts than CCR used. Truthfully, we could have probably eliminated a few, but we like the look anyway. We'll be using carriage bolts with the heads smoother to give a riveted look.
Good....now I need to be on the lookout for a piece of 3/16" aluminum diamond plate big enough. I was planning on using button head socket screws...a similar rivet effect.
 
Widening the body at this stage is really easy if that's an option. I can run you through it.

I wish I had nerve enough to tackle widening mine. The only fiberglass work I've done was patching up an old boat and a couple old beater cars...and that's been 40 or more years ago. I'm just hoping I don't screw up the body beyond salvaging when I try to add a door.
 
Or maybe i just leave it alone and channel it like is. Im at a lose. Windshield and top be all jacked up. If i dplit front and widen it my dash wont be flat unless i spread rear to match and its already wide. Zero knowledge with fiberglass.
 
Or maybe i just leave it alone and channel it like is. Im at a lose. Windshield and top be all jacked up. If i dplit front and widen it my dash wont be flat unless i spread rear to match and its already wide. Zero knowledge with fiberglass.

Are you planning on painting the frame to match the body? If so, I'd plan on notching the body similar to the car in the pic I posted last night. With the same color on both it's not going to stand out badly. If you are going with contrasting colors, I'd say just go with trying to do a bit of a fiberglass flair to finish it off.

I'm going to have to do a small flair right above the same area on mine, to cover a bit of the brake pedal and master cylinder assembly that is going to be about an inch wider than the firewall. My plan is to cut the shape of the flair I want out of foam...lay up the fiberglass over the foam mold...then when it's cured and off the mold, glass the piece to the body.
 
Are you planning on painting the frame to match the body? If so, I'd plan on notching the body similar to the car in the pic I posted last night. With the same color on both it's not going to stand out badly. If you are going with contrasting colors, I'd say just go with trying to do a bit of a fiberglass flair to finish it off.

I'm going to have to do a small flair right above the same area on mine, to cover a bit of the brake pedal and master cylinder assembly that is going to be about an inch wider than the firewall. My plan is to cut the shape of the flair I want out of foam...lay up the fiberglass over the foam mold...then when it's cured and off the mold, glass the piece to the body.
Black on black
 
I have a RPM frame and body and mine is the same way. It'll be channeled outside the body for a few inches, but with my black on black color scheme it should look fine. I've seen them both ways. I may end up flair a littel 'glass around the frame at that point, just depends on how it looks. Your way ahead of me on your build. Good thing its not a race, I'd be loosing for sure.
 

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