cooters T bucket build

[Island Girl]

Who knows, maybe old bubble gum would be good enough . . . .

Sorry I brought it up

 

[2old2fast]

Who knows, maybe old bubble gum would be good enough . . . .

Sorry I brought it up

Bit thin skinned ,are we ?

 

[Island Girl]

Bit thin skinned ,are we ?

No, Not normally . . .

But this isn't the first time I've brought up a valid point, only to have it pooh - pah'd . . .



Lesson learned

 

[2old2fast]

No one said anything about a lack of validity , an alternative was offered along with practical experience , it's up to the reader to choose , no need for sensitivity , knowledge leads to better decisions ..

 

[fletcherson]

Almost 40 years ago I lined the inside of my bucket with wood to attach the interior material. I bonded it with Bondo or some type of body filler. Its still hanging in there. Just sayin'.
Bill

My t was built in the ‘70’s and I had a hard time removing the wood and bondo from inside... grinder required. One thing that I did was drill numerous holes in the oak, ruffened the glass, and mixed resin with the putty when I attached it to give some teeth for mechanical adhesion... it’s all wrapped in glass also. I’m not trying to negate anyone else’s thoughts, just sharing my experience.

 

[Neshkoro]

Me, too.

 

[old round fart]

Lots of bondo used for glue. It’s polyester just like ‘glass resin. Darlene is right. It is just as strong and when covered with ‘glass makes a solid repair.

 

[2old2fast]

ORF , please reread previous posts .

 

[cooter]

I also have this stuff.

 

[old round fart]

I’m out.

 

[fletcherson]

I had to do some belt sanding on it to fit.

I used wide pieces of oak so the door and jambs were one piece, carved to fit, drilled holes in it for the bondo/resin slurry to bite into. Ruffed up the glass on the body, then I cut the door out of the whole thing, that left the jambs in place and they match. Beware, you may get some deviation in the skin, mine pulled in when it cured even though I pre fit the oak. Not a big deal, I just filled and used a body file to straighten it out. I found that adding a little resin to the bondo makes it creamier and easier to get it into crevices, etc. just sharing, not refuting anyone’s ideas. Use very light clamping force, just enough to hold in place, you don’t want to put tension on it. Have fun! Watching you makes me want to uncover mine and get back into it... I left off right after making and hanging the doors. Btw, I found that I have better results with professional grade body filler like 3 m, etc... it’s fresher, creamier, etc than the stuff from local stores. Just my experience. I order just about everything on line. There are a couple auto paint stores, but they are higher priced.

 

[cooter]

I think I have the cut line layed out. Gotta move the reveal just a hair to clear windshield post.

 

[cooter]

gonna try this 3m 08115 panel bond. Curiosity killed the cat

 

[2old2fast]

You need to add to that frame to have something to attach your hinges and latch to.... if that panel bond isn't too pricey , sounds like great stuff !
..

 

[cooter]

door joint is like this bonded also

 

[2old2fast]

Awful thick ....

 

[butch27]

Looking great Cory

 

[tfeverfred]

I used this to bond wood to my body. I didn't have to scuff the fiberglass for it to stick. It was set in about an hour. A few hours later, it was permanent.

3M™ Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200 Fast Cure | 3M United States

 

[cooter]

I used this to bond wood to my body. I didn't have to scuff the fiberglass for it to stick. It was set in about an hour. A few hours later, it was permanent.

3M™ Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200 Fast Cure | 3M United States

That looks like some good stuff!!!

 

[DonnyRay]

Anyone ever tried this stuff ? It's used for repairing boat hulls.