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cooters T bucket build

I have used Six10 recently to bond wood to fiberglass. It just plain works. The only way to get the wood off is to split it, the glue won't separate from the joined pieces. I actually used screws to temporarily hold the wood to the fiberglass while the Six10 was curing. I had planned to back the screws out after the glue cured but it held them as well. I finally had to just grind them off flush.
 
You can fix anything you MAY mess up. Nothing but a little more time and money and a self ass kicking if you do. But learning is what it's all about. YOU GOT THIS!!:):):):)
 
I used wide pieces of oak so the door and jambs were one piece, carved to fit, drilled holes in it for the bondo/resin slurry to bite into. Ruffed up the glass on the body, then I cut the door out of the whole thing, that left the jambs in place and they match. Beware, you may get some deviation in the skin, mine pulled in when it cured even though I pre fit the oak. Not a big deal, I just filled and used a body file to straighten it out. I found that adding a little resin to the bondo makes it creamier and easier to get it into crevices, etc. just sharing, not refuting anyone’s ideas. Use very light clamping force, just enough to hold in place, you don’t want to put tension on it. Have fun! Watching you makes me want to uncover mine and get back into it... I left off right after making and hanging the doors. Btw, I found that I have better results with professional grade body filler like 3 m, etc... it’s fresher, creamier, etc than the stuff from local stores. Just my experience. I order just about everything on line. There are a couple auto paint stores, but they are higher priced.
That would take the place of Bondo and be able to fiberglass over it. Right?
 
Bond A.K.A. body filler is polyester resin with inert fillers , you can thin it with resin , you can thicken resin with fillers so yes you can " glass " over it.
Analogy , cement without aggregate has little structural strength , add aggregate and it increases dramatically, add fiber and increases more add wire or steel rod and it gains more strength..,.
 
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FB_IMG_1542283041442.jpg FB_IMG_1542283038480.jpg FB_IMG_1542283035271.jpg gonna move the reveal up on the door. See the holes with light coming through for reference to the floor. If I use factory reveal I will be 3/16 below the plywood. I ain't going through that engeneereng if I don't have to. Keep it simple. Nobody will know
 
On fiberglasssite.com they have wood powder. Anyone ever use this stuff ? I assume you would mix it with fiberglass resin & hardener. They also have biaxial mat. They claim their biaxial mat will negotiate 90 degree bends. Regarding six 10 epoxy adhesive : Because of forum members positive feedback.. , i'm going to use this stuff.
 
DonnyRay, Some mat have binders in it to hold the strands of glass together, the binders ONLY break down with FIBERGLASS RESIN!! Some mat have binders in it that are compatible with EPOXY RESIN and/or fiberglass resin. They usually will state if it's good for epoxy use but usually won't say that if it's only for fiberglass resin.
 
That would take the place of Bondo and be able to fiberglass over it. Right?
I’m not sure what exactly you refer to as taking place of, (oak?) but yes to glassing over all of it. If you are talking about the bondo and resin mix, yes also. It’s compatible. As for using blocks to follow the contour, I didn’t do it that way because I wanted a solid inner structure for the doors and jambs but I suppose blocking would work. I haven’t personally tried it. I used foam backer rod wrapped in packing tape tucked inside the body lip, then I glassed over it to form a nice roll. I am not attaching fabric to the inside of my tub. It origionally had a couch like seat attached to wood strips that were adhered via body putty back when it was built in the ‘70’s... that stuff was very difficult to remove,,, the wood separated from itself, not from the putty and the putty had to be removed with a grinder. Based on that, I personally have no reservations using body putty to adhere wood to fiberglass. The old timers done it that way, it seemed to work ok. Just my observations here.
 
DonnyRay, Some mat have binders in it to hold the strands of glass together, the binders ONLY break down with FIBERGLASS RESIN!! Some mat have binders in it that are compatible with EPOXY RESIN and/or fiberglass resin. They usually will state if it's good for epoxy use but usually won't say that if it's only for fiberglass resin.
I get a kick out of the things get jumbled as more people join in . Fiberglass resin can be epoxy , polyester or vinyl ester , so when you say epoxy OR fiberglass it can't be ! Make sure of your use and the meaning of terms so you don't provide bad info , thier are those who will take what they read hear as gospel without further verification ..
 
Both do have a catalyst and mix with a harder, Well, when I say fiberglass resin, I'm talking about polyester base resin even vinyl ester resin is a hybrid of poly. Epoxies to me mean s "glue", that is what I usually use it for, to join two objects together, There are many types of epoxy bases and each company or brand has it's own compound of thermosetting polymers .
THE BOTTOM LINE IS CHECK WITH YOUR SUPPLIERS AND TELL THEM WHAT YOUR USING FOR MATERIAL (mat, cloth etc.) AND WHAT YOU WANT TO USE FOR RESIN, Fiberglass or epoxy!
...and maybe I'm a victim of those who take what I read on the inter web as gospel even if it's coming from a supplier.
 

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