Engine oil for Chevy 235

[Six-Shooter]

I have a 1957 Chevy 235 (no oil filter) in my T-bucket in which I've been using Shell Rotella T 15x40 oil. I'd like to know if I should continue using the Rotella T (I've had no problems) or change to something different. Any thoughts or recommendations on this are appreciated. Please chime in!

 

[2old2fast]

Depending on who you talk to ,you'll get a wide range of opinions. Most all oils, including Rotella, have had the zddp content reduced , valvoline racing [silver bottle- conventional ] ,brad penn racing ,joe gibbs racing among others , still have high zddp content. Whether or not it's needed in an engine that's broken in is where you'll find different opinions. There are additives [like zddp plus] available. Do some searching - "bob's the oil guy" is one site -to form your own opinion.
dave

 

[Screaming Metal]

As 2O2F said, theres alot of diff. opinions here. A good quality oil is hard to beat, Rotella T is a good one, has high film strength, zddp to boot. Shell Rotella, Mystic, in the 15-40 range is good. If you loose any between oil changes, just depends on how much you drive your car, add Lucas Oil Stabilizer, and your motor will purr for another 50 years. Since your motor I-6 and has a longer stroke....I'd stay with what you got. Motors are funny, they get used to certain things, and oil is one of them. But definitely add the Lucas, it'll help.
Alot of the different weights depends on the usage, the type of motor, and the heat involved. In Miami, you'd want a 15-40 or a 20w50. In Canada, you could get away with a 10w30. Arizona or New Mexico, in a desert climate, you could use a straight weight.
It all depends. I use the racing oils almost exclusively, they have the stuff the old oils used to have. Everybody was so dam worried about the zddp messing up smog equip. and causing birth defects....the world is a whole lot better off with it, than without it. You don't see them doing away with teflon, its even been found in our DNA. Nice....at least I won't stick to the inside of my coffin....

 

[Screaming Metal]

And Welcome Aboard! Its great to see a I-6'er joining up!

 

[benT]

We used to use Rotella T, but my understanding is that the zinc/zddp has been reduced in the last few years. We've experienced a cam failure due to lack of zddp back when no one realized that it went away, and personally I'd spend a few bucks more and buy an oil formulated for classic/racing engines. We've been using Lucas hot rod oil (Ordered from Summit Racing), but there are some from Royal Purple and Brad Penn as well. We've also used the Valvoline VR1 racing oil, but like the Lucas as its formulated with plenty of zddp (2100 ppm) and has anti-corrosion additives that help during down time.

 

[ellis8500]

The Rotella T1 30 has the zinc needed for hydraulic lifters. The multi-weights might not. Look the application label; look for API CI-4.

 

[ellis8500]

Check this web site:

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/engine_oil_reference_list.htm

 

[Screaming Metal]

We used to use Rotella T, but my understanding is that the zinc/zddp has been reduced in the last few years. We've experienced a cam failure due to lack of zddp back when no one realized that it went away, and personally I'd spend a few bucks more and buy an oil formulated for classic/racing engines. We've been using Lucas hot rod oil (Ordered from Summit Racing), but there are some from Royal Purple and Brad Penn as well. We've also used the Valvoline VR1 racing oil, but like the Lucas as its formulated with plenty of zddp (2100 ppm) and has anti-corrosion additives that help during down time.

Yep, as benT says, it has been reduced, BUT, at least it has some in it compared to some of the oils. yep, it really and truely pissed me off to the core, that, they did not let any of us know that the Zddp would be stripped from some products.
Alot of folks lost alot od expensive motors and guess how some of them found out. Chemical oil analysis .... then they told some of us. The racing oils still have it. Lucas still has it, all the Top Performance oils still have it....
The regular over the counter oils at WalMart and O'Reillys, nope. It pisses me off that those would let folks down like that. But, its the way of the world now....

 

[ellis8500]

Found this on another forum...might be helpful.

Talked to the Shell Answer Man several weeks ago about the wear additives in the old CI-4 verus the new CJ-4 spec's.
He, actually a she, said

...........................CI-4..............CJ-4
Zinc..................1390 ppm.......1210 ppm

Phospherous.........1265 ppm.......1110 ppm

 

[olblu]

If it ain't broke don't fix it. Having said that I have used Quaker State 10W30 in my 235 for 14 years and the same oil in every vehicle I have owned over the last 50 years.

 

[donsrods]

If you want to really be cautious, dump in half a bottle of Lucas Zinc additive every oil change. We have been using it my Son's Olds engine with a flat tappet cam and when you rub your fingers together it is super slippery, much more so than just what regular oil would feel like. I don't know how scientific that is, but we are seeing no signs of metal when we change his oil. Autozone and Advance Auto carry it.

Don

 

[Six-Shooter]

Thanks for all your replies. I think I'll stay with the Rotella but start adding some Lucas additive.

 

[Screaming Metal]

Hey. Six-Shooter, you can always add a screw on remote oil filter to your block....all you have to do is tap into the oiling system, with a send and return line, then, add your hoses and remote filter block....