Front disc brakes

[Baby Huey]

Maybe that is the difference Fred. We got ours from Speedway, maybe TP puts instructions in the ones they sell. It seemed to us that Wilwood is doing everything possible to take a hands off "we didn't tell them to put these on their car" approach. Like I said, there were tags rubber banded to every component saying "professional installation ONLY."

Don

I didn't get ANY instructions with my Speedways Brake kit either ! I got Jerry to copy his and send me copies. I had a bunch of spacers and had no idea where they went. The big ones the inner seal rides on were .030" too big on the center hole to fit the spindles, they rattled around, so I turned out a couple new ones. Come to find out after reading the "instructions" they expect you to WELD those spacers to the spindle !! I think I will turn out a new set again and "Sweat" em on the spindle, just cut the center hole a couple thousand too small and heat em up and slip em on and let em cool....Should be fine to run a inner seal on.... "BH"

 

[ACJC]

I too am having front end shimmy above 50 mph (longitudinal yaw on the transverse front spring) and I notice that the Wildwood discs seem to be doing most all of the work and nearly none by the rear drums. I have adjusted the rear's some and may have to go some more. I'm considering adding the 2 PSI check valves. Any advice will be welcomed.

I agree with lanceks1 on proper front end set up. Currently, I have neutral toe and zero to +1 deg caster. So from reading this section I know what must be done; +5 deg. and 1/8 toe in for bias ply.

I also have to check the torque on the friction shocks. I'm am leaning toward Total's hydraulic shock kit in lieu of the friction shocks. They look cool but hydraulics are better.

This has all been valuable information.

Thanks to all,
JC

 

[Blue Bucket]

I had a similiar problem with wandering all over the road even after I did the front end alignment twice just to be sure. Well the problem was fixed with a matched set of Mickey Thompson radials,runs straight and true!! I also had Cooper bias on the front with a wide flat road contact, very hard to steer but this was also fixed with the radials. The radiasl are the new Flame pattern and the fronts have a round contact foot print.

 

[69MyWay]

Very cool discussion.

I'm a novice at all of this. We have a 1923 Family T-bucket that has been around for decades. After my dad passed away the fellow he sold it to sold/gave it back to my mom. In 2004 we re-did the car in so much as paint, interior...etc.

However, it has the big massive heavy drum brakes on the front. My mom can't drive the car (even to the corner store). The brakes are terrible.

I started collecting disc brake parts over the last couple of years and finally got started last night. This is a LOW budget ride at this point (as in no budget). While saftey comes first (especially on brakes) we want to see what we can do with parts on hand.

With that said, I have some rotors off a 1985 Corvette (10 3/4"). After I removed the old drum housing I am able to slip them on the bearing hub. I do need to machine the hub just a pinch to get them to slip on all the way. I also have a set of REAR 1996 Caprice cop car disc calipers. They are light weight aluminum and will just squeeze in under the old 14" allow slotted mags.

Looks like I can use the old drum backing plate as a bracket template.

The replacement calipers will mount at the 12:00 position. I will have to put a bias valve in the rear brake line.

These should be way lighter than the old GM cast calipers....

Thoughts...reasons why this won't work??????

Oh...info the car:

23 T Bucket

 

[69MyWay]

Jumped right into it. I have the calipers rough mounted now - will upload pics soon.

We'll see......

 

[69MyWay]

it works!

However, don't think I have been over 45 mph since the install

Total cost was under $100 for the adapters, bolts, pads...etc. The other parts (calipers, baskets, rotors) came from junk I had been collecting.