Front Radius Rod Mounts Strong Enough?

[bobs66440]

When I decided to lower the frame by 2" vs. the standard kit, a few things had to be addressed. One being the rear radius rods. If I mounted them on the frame rails in the front like others are, they would hit the bottom of the body which is channeled over the frame 3". I didn't really like the idea of cutting into the body for clearance, so I decided to move the mounts outboard clear of the body. I like this look better anyway so it will work out.

I made this cardboard mock up for fitting purposes. I know they aren't the prettiest looking, but they will be hidden by the body and a step I plan on incorporating into them. I'm using some 2"x2"x1/4" angle I have in the shop. I only have a 110 mig, so I'll tack them and have my buddy who is a welder burn them in.

Your opinions please?

 

[T-Test]

Many built like that, but should be put in double sheer for added strength and stability. Also brace behind frame mount so it will not fold over.

 

[Mike J]

Adding the xtra tab inside for the shear is a good, what you already have looks sufficient, unless your drag racing it or have 15" wide slicks and huge horsepower. Doesn't look that way to me. I am going the same route with mine, looks good.

 

[bobs66440]

I regards to the gusset behind the frame mount, the mount is made of 5/16" plate and is bent on the ends. Do you still think it needs a gusset? It's no problem to do, just not sure if it's necessary...

 

[butch27]

It will work just fine. The old "Bird" T bucket kits frame was just like that.

 

[Mike J]

Saw that in the first pic, plenty of support. It will be good.

 

[bobs66440]

When you say "double shear", do you mean add a plate on the inside of the rod end to "sandwich" it? If so, how would you adjust the side to side play between the plates if it's not welded exactly perfect? Shims or washers?

 

[Keeper]

Washers would work. Though you might have to sand them down depending on how loose/tight it would be.

 

[fluidfloyd]

When you say "double shear", do you mean add a plate on the inside of the rod end to "sandwich" it? If so, how would you adjust the side to side play between the plates if it's not welded exactly perfect? Shims or washers?

Just measure the overall width of your rodend bearing or bushing and cut you a piece of tubing about .010-.015 inch longer. Bolt this in between your two tabs and weld the second one in. Once it has cooled just knock it out. Put all you weld on the outside of that second tab as it will try to move away from the bushing. There will probably be no need for shims at that clearance once the bolt is tightened. Hope this helps.

George

 

[bobs66440]

Just measure the overall width of your rodend bearing or bushing and cut you a piece of tubing about .010-.015 inch longer. Bolt this in between your two tabs and weld the second one in. Once it has cooled just knock it out. Put all you weld on the outside of that second tab as it will try to move away from the bushing. There will probably be no need for shims at that clearance once the bolt is tightened. Hope this helps.

George

Ahhh, excellent! Thank you!

 

[hulkamania]

The radius rod bracket is 3/8" not 5/16

 

[bobs66440]

Ah, sorry. Thanks for the correction.

 

[joecool]

I'm not an expert but I think by setting the radius rods out you are going to make it more difficult the keep the rear from side to side sway.When you have the fronts closer together it reduces the amount the rear can move sideways, anyway thats my opinion, worth exactly what it costs.

 

[bobs66440]

I'm not an expert but I think by setting the radius rods out you are going to make it more difficult the keep the rear from side to side sway.When you have the fronts closer together it reduces the amount the rear can move sideways, anyway thats my opinion, worth exactly what it costs.

I'm using a panhard bar in the rear which limits side to side movement.

 

[roadmonster]

For the same amount of trouble (or less), you could fab new rods with the top tube running straight from the frame tab to the top of the axle bracket, then weld the lower tube in a V just behind. This will give you about 3" of extra clearance and allow you to use existing tabs and be stronger as well (more triangular). Also cleaner looking. You can gusset the V if you want, but it's not necessary.

 

[roadmonster]

For even more clearance, you could make the lower tube straight and V in the top tube.

 

[bobs66440]

For the same amount of trouble (or less), you could fab new rods with the top tube running straight from the frame tab to the top of the axle bracket, then weld the lower tube in a V just behind.

Thanks for the suggestion. That was my first thought. But I clamped a straight tube from the top of the axle bracket to the frame bracket to see if it would work and it was better but it would still hit the body with any bump in the road at all. Spirit has radius rods with a straight top tubes that I would have used, but it wasn't to be. Up until I thought of extending the mounts outboard, my plan was to modify the radius rods to clear the bottom of the body like this...



It would have worked too, and all I would have had to do was cut the top section out, flip it around and weld it back together. But it wouldn't match the front ones, so I chose to do this.