Having Another Crack At It.

[AussieT]

Well after taking on a new job in March this year I have not had any time for the T, but I decided to re ignite the "T" flame and get busy at it again. I have just had the chassis pass inspection 3 weeks ago and am now stuck right into it.
Have just steeled out the body (no wood allowed in Oz, only steel) and positioned the engine and trans on the chassis so I can fit the trans tunnel in the right spot.
Hav"n" a great time right now. Hope it's all good on the other side of the world (except the cold weather). Cold weather shinks certain things that I can't afford to be any smaller!!!! So I will stay down under for summer I think.

Shawn

 

[EX JUNK]

Beautiful piece of work there Shawn. Keep up the great work.

Jim

 

[bentbaggerlen]

That is some impresive steel work on the body, and a steel floor. Very nice

 

[one finger john]

Hi AussieT, what you are doing right now, with the steel tubing reinforcement, obviously makes the body stronger, what does it do for side impact, safety ... ect.? Also what is your total, finished weight projected to be? What is the weght of the body reinforcement alone?

Have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year, John

 

[AussieT]

G;day John,

In Australia we have to have steel by law or the vehicle will not pass inspection. The bucket gets inspected along the way. My chassis has passed so now I have to place the steel in the spots as directed by the TAC inspector who then checks and passes it before the interior goes in.
The weight at the moment is, Tube bars = 15kg and the floor is 20kg. I will have to add some intrusion bars at an angle where the door mold is for side impact protection. I do not have a final weight estimation but the seat frames have to be steel as well. Will let you know as I go mate.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you all.

Shawn

 

[AussieT]

G,day All.

Took the body off over Christmas and started work on the chassis. Built a K-Member to hold the Transmission Mount that I made
A bit more tidy up work where I bent the tubing and Bob's your Uncle.......Need to make an engine tube for the front mounts. I will give that a go next week.


Have a good New Year all and catch ya's all in 2010!!


Shawn

Go Cardinals!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[EX JUNK]

G,day All.

Took the body off over Christmas and started work on the chassis. Built a K-Member to hold the Transmission Mount that I made
A bit more tidy up work where I bent the tubing and Bob's your Uncle.......Need to make an engine tube for the front mounts. I will give that a go next week.


Have a good New Year all and catch ya's all in 2010!!


Shawn

Go Cardinals!!!!!!!!!!!

Nice work on that K-member Shawn. I am also in favor of the use of a K-member as you can see from the attached picture.

Jim

 

[one finger john]

What is the advantage of a K mmber for a trans mount verses a straight drop out type of trans mount? Other than the additional stiffening to the chassis.

 

[EX JUNK]

What is the advantage of a K mmber for a trans mount verses a straight drop out type of trans mount? Other than the additional stiffening to the chassis.

Isn't that enough?

Jim

 

[AussieT]

A K-Member gives torsional rigidity to the chassis. Having a ridgid chassis is important when using independant suspenion. I am using a Jag rear so that is why I used a K member.

Shawn

 

[Whiplash]

Well after taking on a new job in March this year I have not had any time for the T, but I decided to re ignite the "T" flame and get busy at it again. I have just had the chassis pass inspection 3 weeks ago and am now stuck right into it.
Have just steeled out the body (no wood allowed in Oz, only steel) and positioned the engine and trans on the chassis so I can fit the trans tunnel in the right spot.
Hav"n" a great time right now. Hope it's all good on the other side of the world (except the cold weather). Cold weather shinks certain things that I can't afford to be any smaller!!!! So I will stay down under for summer I think.

Shawn
[attachment=3449SC04529.JPG][attachment=3448SC04448.JPG][attachment=3450SC04531.JPG]

Hiya from ya neighbour in Kiwiland, I didn't realise you fella's had to have your cars certed like us. I like your steel work,I have cut my doors off my body with the intentions of having opening doors and found that the whole body will now have to be steeled out to get some strength back into it.What is the secret in bending the square section without it crushing??
Whiplash

 

[AussieT]

Thanks for the comments Jim, your frame is well done., did you put that together?

G,day Whiplash, my best mates a Kiwi, down in Invercargal.

It depends on the bends that you require. The sides I made forms out of wood then used a deadblow to mould the steel into the right shape. The tight 90 degree type upper curves I cut into the side wall in even intervals and bent into the right shape. Then mig welded back together. It may not be the best way, but for me it worked well.
Just remember not to have the steel pressing on the body. You need to leave a small gap then use body filler to glue the structure in place or else you will see an outline of the steel where it touchs when you paint your body.

Shawn

 

[EX JUNK]

Thanks for the comments Jim, your frame is well done., did you put that together?

G,day Whiplash, my best mates a Kiwi, down in Invercargal.

It depends on the bends that you require. The sides I made forms out of wood then used a deadblow to mould the steel into the right shape. The tight 90 degree type upper curves I cut into the side wall in even intervals and bent into the right shape. Then mig welded back together. It may not be the best way, but for me it worked well.
Just remember not to have the steel pressing on the body. You need to leave a small gap then use body filler to glue the structure in place or else you will see an outline of the steel where it touchs when you paint your body.

Shawn

Yes Shawn, that frame is of our own design and home built.

Jim