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I hate aluminum heads

barnbikes

New Member
Thursday my Escort over heated on the way home. So I decided to replace the thermostat. 1 of the 3 blots was rusted right off. I tried to drill the bolt with no luck so I drilled next to it and tried to tap the head - aluminum would not take the threads - they just broke right off. Finally jambed a long bolt as good as I could in the hole and put a nut on top of the housing for pressure. Lots of form a gasket.

Will try and put fluid in her tomorrow when my blood pressure goes down.

Wanted to clear space for my new project coming friday but the daily driver has priority.

I need a beer!!!
 
Sounds like it's time for JB Weld and a stud in that head. I bought a used intake manifold and found out that one of the carb mount holes had stripped threads some JB Weld and a stud fixed it just fine. I used studs to mount the carb so the fixed hole looks just like all the others. If your fix doesn't work, try the JB.........good stuff.
 
Check this out super alloy 5. You can set the stud in place feed the rod in and let it cool then screw the stud out and the threads are better than new. . You can buy the Super Alloy 5 on ebay just make sure the seller has lots of feed back and sells this kina stuff to keep from getting a fake.
http://www.muggyweld.com/5clip7.html
Watch all the videos its very cool stuff.
http://www.muggyweld.com/index2.html
 
Heli-coils work very well............ruggs
 
If your fix doesn't work, try the JB.........good stuff.

Not to hijack but just make sure you use the regular JB WELD. I tried the quick set up stuff and...well let's just say it was less than satisfactory.
 
Heli-coils work very well............ruggs

Ruggs
have you ever tried TIME SERTS? They leave helicoils standing for strength and ease of use. We have thrown the helicoils away after trying these.
Gerry
 
I have used Time Serts before they cost a little more but well worth it ,,
Time Serts
 
hey to make you feel a little better, those escort thermostat bolts are known for breaking off ur not the only one that has been down this road before.
 
Ruggs
have you ever tried TIME SERTS? They leave helicoils standing for strength and ease of use. We have thrown the helicoils away after trying these.
Gerry
Gerry, I'll give them a try.............ruggs
 
To make things worse. The car is still over heating.

Put fluid in it and let it idle in the drive way for about 30 minutes heat gauge barely moved.

next day got in it and drove it after about 15 minutes of driving at 60mph - 2500 rpms heat gauge climbed to top. Turned the floor heat on and the gauge went back down to normal.

Since then if I drive under 2000 rpms it does not over heat. If I drive over 2000 I turn the AC on and have the floor heat on.

No water in the oil. No bubbles in the radiator or the over flow tank. No cold spots on the radiator. Can not see an collapsed hoses. Water pump must be working since the heater works. Engine runs smooth as silk.

Any ideas?
 
To make things worse. The car is still over heating.

Put fluid in it and let it idle in the drive way for about 30 minutes heat gauge barely moved.

next day got in it and drove it after about 15 minutes of driving at 60mph - 2500 rpms heat gauge climbed to top. Turned the floor heat on and the gauge went back down to normal.

Since then if I drive under 2000 rpms it does not over heat. If I drive over 2000 I turn the AC on and have the floor heat on.

No water in the oil. No bubbles in the radiator or the over flow tank. No cold spots on the radiator. Can not see an collapsed hoses. Water pump must be working since the heater works. Engine runs smooth as silk.

Any ideas?
 
If you like heli-coils, you'll love Timeserts. We always used them in block plates, so we didn't have to use nuts on bellhousing bolts and they worked great.

The Super Alloy 5 stuff looks interesting, too.

They do look better than heli-coils, but what to do with all the heli-coil kits we have collected in the last 40 years?
 
To make things worse. The car is still over heating.

Put fluid in it and let it idle in the drive way for about 30 minutes heat gauge barely moved.

next day got in it and drove it after about 15 minutes of driving at 60mph - 2500 rpms heat gauge climbed to top. Turned the floor heat on and the gauge went back down to normal.

Since then if I drive under 2000 rpms it does not over heat. If I drive over 2000 I turn the AC on and have the floor heat on.

No water in the oil. No bubbles in the radiator or the over flow tank. No cold spots on the radiator. Can not see an collapsed hoses. Water pump must be working since the heater works. Engine runs smooth as silk.

Any ideas?

Sounds like the radiator needs to be looked at. Check it to make sure there is no debris in the fins, between it and the a/c condenser. If that is good have it rodded out, or replace it.
 
Finally figured out how to get to the space between the 2 radiators. I found what looks like the contents of a bag of cotton balls. Hope it runs better tomorrow.
Thanks

Sounds like the radiator needs to be looked at. Check it to make sure there is no debris in the fins, between it and the a/c condenser. If that is good have it rodded out, or replace it.
 

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