Low Slung T

[DonnyRay]

I have that style , I got it from R.P.M. It has 2 open sides also. I believe mine are strong enough.

 

[dwsatt21]

DonnyRay - I made these ones myself. I did go off of pictures from a major suppliers website though. I was just thinking about covering the outside for looks only. It would hide the stud for the headlight and wiring a bit. No worries on strength.

 

[dwsatt21]

Just finished up my shock and headlight mounts. Should work pretty good.
Guess I should add clean up the garage to my list...

 

[Island Girl]

Looking good there . . . .

No problems fitting the grill shell on, I take it . . .

 

[dwsatt21]

Well...I’m probably going to regret it, but I have no intentions of putting a grill shell on it.
If down the line I change my mind on this, I will be able to get one in there.

 

[dwsatt21]

So moving on to my steering arm. It’s at a pretty steep angle with this front end. Was thinking I could flip the bracket upside down to lower the mounting point of the arm but it hits the axle when I do that. Anyone see any reason that I can’t clearance this bracket so it will miss the axle throughout the turning radius?

 

[old round fart]

Can you flip the arm and get? Can you use the second hole? How about putting it on the bottom bolts. That will put the drag link at a better angle to reduce bump steer.

 

[AusBucket]

What about putting the steering arm in a press and bending an S shape in it so it follows the angle in the axle? Would drop the pivot point a fair amount I reckon.

 

[Island Girl]

What about putting the steering arm in a press and bending an S shape in it so it follows the angle in the axle? Would drop the pivot point a fair amount I reckon.

That would end up loosing a lot of leverage. . . . keeping the bracket right side up and using a huge "S" bend

I don't see any reason he can't clearance the area for the axle with the bracket upside down as he shows it, and then add a reinforcing gusset on top.

If he still needs more lowering for the steering link to be more parallel with the ground, he could add a little bit of "S" and use the 3rd hole, with only slight loss of leverage.

 

[dwsatt21]

I never even thought about putting it in the bottom bolts. I’m going to look into that today.
Based on all the comment, I’m guessing I want my arm parallel to the ground? If that’s the case, putting it in the lower bolts of the spindle would be my best bet, if it works.

 

[AusBucket]

I'd be surprised if it lost more than 1/2" in overall length by following the axle angle, I suspect it will foul on the bottom side of the axle if placed underneath judging by the look of the drop involved. could be wrong, been wrong before.;-))

 

[T-Test]

Something like this?

 

[Island Girl]

I'd be surprised if it lost more than 1/2" in overall length by following the axle angle, I suspect it will foul on the bottom side of the axle if placed underneath judging by the look of the drop involved. could be wrong, been wrong before.;-))

Have to agree, probably why he didn't think of it . . . . the brain sees stuff like that and takes note, even if you don't realize it at the time.

Even if it worked, I'd be hesitant to put that bracket where it could drag and scrape and rip the steering wheel out of my hands.

 

[dwsatt21]

AusBucket - I think we’ve all been wrong at least once. The brackets that T-test shared are about what you are suggesting to do?

Did a little reading and it seems I would want this arm to travel as close to the same arc as the radius rods as I can get it. I’m going to take everything you all are giving me and got sit in my garage with my thinking cap and stare at my bucket.

 

[Island Girl]

AusBucket - I think we’ve all been wrong at least once. The brackets that T-test shared are about what you are suggesting to do?

Did a little reading and it seems I would want this arm to travel as close to the same arc as the radius rods as I can get it. I’m going to take everything you all are giving me and got sit in my garage with my thinking cap and stare at my bucket.

While you're staring and thinking, take a look at whether you have to run the drag link in front, as I suspect you do, or if it will clear the frame and radius rods to run it behind.

It may become important as you work out other aspects of your steering.

 

[Gerry]

From what I see you want to take some metal away to clear the tube axle, because where the steering arm is mounted it rubs on full lock.

Or have I missed something????

Just cut the bit out you have shown with the red line and move on. Its a no brainer.

 

[dwsatt21]

Island girl - with the bracket I have now, it runs into my spring perch. But, who knows. Maybe a little bend here and there and I can get it behind the axle.

 

[old round fart]

I like the looks but of those chrome arms. Those CCR pieces?

 

[dwsatt21]

Afternoon update.
Cannot put it on the bottom. It runs into the frame.
Don’t want to just clearance it. I did a little templating and I will have to take way to much metal out for my comfort. I would only have about a 1/4” of metal left at the front and back.
So I’m thinking I’m going to bend it to match the frame like AusBucket suggested sontheyblook kind of like the ones T-Test posted. They are 3/8” inch steel though. So this should be fun.

 

[dwsatt21]

ORF - those are CCR arms.
31500C T-Steering Arms, Chrome, Bolt-on