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Low Slung T

Glad you got it figured out.
 
Me too. I ended up grinding the yoke a bit. I hope it doesn't cause me problems. My driveshaft guy assure me it won't.
 
Well he Fall Carlisle swap meet was a bust. Only found a few useful shop expendables. It still was a good time even though it rained on use nearly the whole time.
So I came home and ordered up some high boy headers. Other than that, motivation has been non existent this weekend.
 
I need some advise on sealing the wood from the elements please.
I'm trying to fit the seat insert into the body.
I want the lip of the insert to sit flush beside the lip of the body.
The insert would sit on and be supported by the wood around the top edge of the body.
Any ideas on how I should seal the wood from the elements? Could I just cot the wood with resin before installing or do I need to encapsulate it with glass? What would you guys do?
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Ahh. Bed Liner would be way easier than getting glass around the sharp corners. However, I wouldn't have this problem if I wasn't using this insert and didn't need the wood to be butted tight against the lip of the body.
Now that I am thinking about it, maybe I shouldn't but the tight up against the body lip. If I set the insert lip a bit below the body lip I would be able to glass around the top of the wood block and when the interior is upholstered the final product may leave a nearly flush surface at the lip. hmmm
 
I'm going to glue them in with Duraglass then glass over them. Just can't get over the top side once its installed without getting the glass on the body lip. I didn't realize the bondo would be waterproof. I could coat the top before its installed and then just glue them in. Easy as pie.
 
A couple coats of resin will keep them dry. Also, there is a fiberglass mat that is about as thin as toilet paper. I get it in a roll about 3"s wide.
 
I would use wood epoxy to coat the wood blocks, the epoxy dries flexible where as fiber glass resin dries hard (wood expands and contracts a little with humidity, yea if you coat it with resin, humidity can't get in.
You can epoxy over fiber glass but you shouldn't fiber glass over epoxy.
I bought a body that was wooded and was fiber glassed in place, tho it wasn't a good job, and that's why I took it all out. It came out pretty easy except a couple of blocks that was glued in place with bondo. Just saying many way to peel an onion.
 
If you rest the lip of the insert on the top of the blocks and fill the gap between the insert and body lips, how is any water going to get to the wood? Maybe I'm just not seeing it. Nevertheless, if you expect water to come from above you should rotate those blocks 90 degrees so the water isn't hitting end grain.
 
Does the insert sit on the top flange of the body? If so if you glued it with fiberglass bondo no water can get to the wood. You may not even need the wood.
 
Right now the insert does sit on top of the body. However, it fits like garbage. So I was planning on cutting it down to fit flush with the body. Gluing it in would work but I have big plans for under the seat so I would like it to be removable. I will be putting my battery under it, my fuse box, and my PCM for my engine.
I could possibly create a door. On the front side of the seats to access all this. I actually was going to do that anyway so I could get to the fuses. Maybe I will glue it in solid..
 
Intrepid. The engine I have is a LT1 out of my 97 transam. The water pump is not electric. It is actually spline driven off the timing set. It would not work on a gen1 SBC.
 

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