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Low Slung T

I did quite a bit of measuring before I marked it out. From where my rear end is sitting in these pictures, I should only have 2" more of upward travel before the rear shocks bottom out.
 
Think I'd move the top mount up or the bottom down whir have ever is easier. I want more up travel than that. Hitting a rail road track at speed will use up a lot of travel.
 
ORF are you talking about my shocks? If so, the bottom mount has three spots to put the shocks. I plan on using one of the lower ones.
 
I did quite a bit of measuring before I marked it out. From where my rear end is sitting in these pictures, I should only have 2" more of upward travel before the rear shocks bottom out.

I was backwards on this. Down travel is 2". Up travel is 2.5". Shocks go from 10-14" with the ride height being 12.5".
My mock up shocks are set at 12.5" in the pictures and the bottom is mounted in the top of the three holes on the lower shock mount. This is just for checking clearances and maybe very rare occasion when I want to sit the car lower for a show or something. For most everyday, I will have the shocks mounted in the middle hole on the lower shock mounts.
 
Ran into a bit of a snag. The driveshaft bind at the front between the two yokes when the suspension squats all the way down. The pic below shows where I mean but is not representative of the binding. I have the rear end dropped all the way down in the pic.
Any one have any experience with this?
I see two options right now.
1 - adjust the pinion angle to point the rear end towards the transmission more. I'm not 100% sure this will do it. Or
2 - Break out the die grinder and do some clearancing. Not too kean on this due to the strength loss issues.
What do you guys think?
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Oh yeah
3 - get a different slip yoke that allows more clearance. Not sure of my options here. I will call my driveshaft guy tomorrow.
 
I've been working on this rear crossmember for awhile now. I needed a driveshaft to see if I needed to C notch it. Just barely, but a C was needed. I also put some square cuts in the end for gas and brake lines and wiring. Just got it tacked into place a few minutes ago.
image.jpeg image.jpeg
 
Ron - it's not bottomed out. I have about an inch of slip. I still may be shortening the drive shaft though. If I can't figure out how to get it by to bind, I'll switch to a 4x4 slip yoke and shorten the shaft a bit.

Choppedtop - that's my go to hammer. It usually gets the job done. If not, I have bigger ones in the corner.
I'm really happy with that mount too. Way better than my last atrocity. Ha. Thanks for the compliment.
 
Started working on my safety loop. Made this rough jig to do the radius. It is rough but it worked pretty nicely.
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This also happened in the process. Time to buy a new vice. I can guarantee it won't be a craftsman!! Unless of course, I get hem to warranty this one.
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Gif - Thanks. The craftsman vice was a gift from the inlaws a few years ago. I'll keep my eye open for a good one. Maybe I'll find one at the Carlisle swap meet this weekend. In the meantime, I have it bolted to a large piece of steel I have one my bench using the one center bolt in the bottom. I cant really put much stress on it but it will work for small stuff.

I got my loop done and tacked in. I actually reworked my jig a bit and used some flat steel that was not quite is wide. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. Pic in the next post....

Next, I think I'm going to solve this driveshaft bind problem and tack in my last two body mount tabs.
 

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