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My First T-Bucket Build

Its the reverse thread type. I thought about blowing it out with a torch but that makes me a little nervous! I think that will be last resort. It's the bolt that holds the thermostat housing to the intake, so taking the intake off will not expose more of the bolt.
If it's the reverse type, there should be some space to get between the edge and the hole, between the threaded areas, depending on the brand. It's also tapered, so if you can get it to move, it should get easier to remove. A trick I learned is to use something as hard as the easy out, like another square easy out to make a chisel type tool to help. The tool will be harder than the bolt and will not get destroyed by the reminants of the broken easy out. Wear eye protection! That brittle steel will shatter and send pieces flying. I hold the chisel tool with vice grips to save my fingers from vibration or mis fired hammer strikes. Anyways, with patience and work, you should be able to free it because the bolt is softer, and it will eventually loosen up. I agree that heat will help because it will expand the cast iron, heat around the broken bolt, not right on it, then chip away to try to work that broken tool out, then try another tactic. The bolt will melt and blow out of cast, but it's a fine line. That's why I sugest letting a experienced person do it. How special is the manifold? Don't feel bad, I bet, truth be told, everyone who really works on machines has had the exact issue with a broken bolt at some point.
 
Thanks for everyone's advice. I was able to get it out this weekend. I ordered a 1/8" solid carbide drill bit on amazon for like $10 and that drilled through everything in about 2 minutes. I was amazed. Then I went and bought some left hand drill bits and started drilling the bolt out, hoping the drill would catch the bolt and spin it out.. well that didn't happen but I did just drill it out until it was close to the thread and then I was able to pull it out with some plyers. We're in business now. If anyone runs into this problem, I highly recommend a solid carbide drill bit.

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I was able to take the car for it's first test drive this weekend. I just drove it down the street about 100 yards and then right back. My temp sensor isn't working. I think my gauges came with a temp sensor that supposedly is the only one that will work with these gauges. So that's why i didn't drive it long. But I found a few things that need worked out. The radiator apparently has a leak. Temp senser. I jacked up my fuel fitting on the gas tank somehow so it's leaking fuel. And the brake pedal got kind of stuck in the pushed position for a couple seconds until i kicked the pedal and it released. The rod that pushes in the master cylinder is all thread, so I think the thread got stuck on the master cylinder bore. I'm going to smooth it out and I think that will fix that issue. But I will say I was very impressed with my brakes. I have driven a few hot rods before and the brakes have always been pretty hard to push. I must have done mine right because it feels like I have power brakes. They are so responsive. It's awesome. The exhaust was crazy loud. I need to install some baffles for sure. Everyone in the neighborhood was coming outside to see what made that noise. When I pulled in the driveway, all the neighborhood kids were running over to see what it was. That was pretty funny. I took some pictures of the gauges installed and also took a real quick video of the drive but I am having trouble uploading the video.


Here is the video. Sorry for the vertical video. I filmed it in snapchat.



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I installed a 12 pin plug on the gauge panel so it would be removable.

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Leaky radiator
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Really happy to hear you got that bolt drilled out. Way to go!:thumbsup: And how big was the grin on your face after your test drive, hmmm???:laugh::D
 
Awesome! That first ride must be so fun. And a little nerve racking.
 
Love it, you got your first ride. I know what that feels like. Miles of Smiles. Happy to see you got that stuck bolt out.
 
Cool! Who makes those?
 

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