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My First T-Bucket Build

I think Weatherpack connectors only go up to 6 pins, and then jumps up to the 22 pin bulkhead connector that I used for the firewall. I haven't come across any other brands that make anything over 6 pin connectors either. It would be nice to have one for my gauge panel. By the way PotvinGuy, your last reply looks empty on my end.
I know, I tried to insert the link to Amazon and no dice.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MEEKFGR?psc=1
...this kit looks like it has 8-pin connectors, but I can't find any singles.
 
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Hmmm...wonder if Weatherpack pins and crimp tool are compatible with these 8,10 ,12 pin connectors.
 
I'm considering these guys, when I get to that point Their paks also come with a pig tail, as an option for us guys lacking crimping skills or tools.

Weather Pack Assembled Pigtails - 6-Way
Those are nice too. I'm going to have few connections, basically the lights and maybe the engine, but my wiring will all be in the body, under the seat, under the dash, and the wires will be inside of the rockers. I want to be able to unplug and remove the tub, but most of it will be in it. That is if everything goes as planned. I am gonna update my crimpers for the GM weatherpack style. I saw a nice ratchet type on Amazon for $25.00 or so. I'm not to that point on my build yet.
 
Maybe we should move this last four or five posts to a Electrical DIY section for new guys to learn. I will add to it when I do mine, I am doing everything with the MIL-Spec connectors and pins only because I have access to all the expensive crimpers, and I can get the connectors for free from modifying/demod aircraft.
I just have to buy the pins, and they aren't cheap at times.
 
I don't have any flashy updates but I got the engine wired up and started it for the first time. Runs great. I only ran it for about 30 seconds since I don't have a radiator hooked up at the moment. I tried getting that done this weekend but I broke one of the bolts that holds down the thermostat housing. it's flush with the intake. So I spent about 4 hours trying to get that out on Sunday. I drilled a hole in the bolt to get an easy out in there. But ended up breaking the easy out off inside the bolt. So now I've just made it 10 X worse since the easy out is extremely hard metal. I haven't been able to make a dent in it with a drill. I have a buddy coming over in the next few days that is a machinist. He says he has some tools that should do the job so we will see. So frustrating though because I could have had the car driving around the block Sunday if it wasn't for that stupid bolt.
 
I feel your pain. Did the same thing on an old Cadillac I was repairing, and a friend took a piece of steel, about 1/8" x 1/4" x 6" and spot welded the tip of it to the end of the bolt at an angle. Then using it as a 'wrench' just turned it right out.
 
Go to YouTube, search for "candle wax bolt removal".
 
I tried welding a nut on the top but it kept busting off. I might try what you guys did though. The bolt is pretty small, 5/16" so I'm a little worried about accidentally welding the bolt to the intake. Then I might really be screwed lol.
If it's a cast iron manifold, the bolt can be blown out with a torch, but I'd reccomend having an experienced person do it. I burn studs, bolts, etc out of heads and exhaust manifolds all the time, or used to when I worked on stuff more. The busted easy out is no fun. They are so hard and brittle. Was it a tapered square or a reverse threaded type? Its fixable, have patience. No fun, for sure.
 
No but taking it off makes it a lot easier to fix! Take it to a machine shop if you can't get it out. Take the water neck off to get as much as you can, heat the manifold and try to turn it.
 

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