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My First T-Bucket Build

It doesn't look like there's too much room between the coils either for travel. They may end up bottoming out. Like you said, you'll find out...

Why did you use coil over instead of just shocks?
That too... First let me say, I am on a very tight budget, so I'm working with what I can get. I went with this spring/ coil over set up because it was cheap. The spring is too soft to be used alone, so I added the motorcycle shocks. I ended up changing my rear suspension design when it came time for it. I made the frame kickup in the rear kind of small because I was planning on running a spring over the axle set up. When I mocked it up for that, it was way too high for me. I just don't care for that stance. So I made the spring behind mounts which lowered the car where I want it, but now there isn't a whole lot of travel between the frame and axle. So I want it to be stiff, so it doesn't bottom out, but I also don't want it too stiff. Luckily, there is a lot of adjustments I can make to find the sweet spot. The coil overs are on the softest setting right now. And if I remember correctly they have around 6 adjustment points to make it stiffer. Then if it's too stiff at the softest setting, I'll take out some leafs. I think it will work out fine. I will just have to make adjustments when I get the car on the road and see how it rides.

Also, just to give you an idea of what the cost difference is... Normally a coil over setup could cost between $300 - $500 for the coil overs. Or for a leaf spring setup, $200 - $300 for a rear leaf spring and about $60 for rear shocks.

I paid $40 for my Harley coil overs and the leaf spring I took off of the front axle so it was basically free.
 
That too... First let me say, I am on a very tight budget, so I'm working with what I can get. I went with this spring/ coil over set up because it was cheap. The spring is too soft to be used alone, so I added the motorcycle shocks. I ended up changing my rear suspension design when it came time for it. I made the frame kickup in the rear kind of small because I was planning on running a spring over the axle set up. When I mocked it up for that, it was way too high for me. I just don't care for that stance. So I made the spring behind mounts which lowered the car where I want it, but now there isn't a whole lot of travel between the frame and axle. So I want it to be stiff, so it doesn't bottom out, but I also don't want it too stiff. Luckily, there is a lot of adjustments I can make to find the sweet spot. The coil overs are on the softest setting right now. And if I remember correctly they have around 6 adjustment points to make it stiffer. Then if it's too stiff at the softest setting, I'll take out some leafs. I think it will work out fine. I will just have to make adjustments when I get the car on the road and see how it rides.

Also, just to give you an idea of what the cost difference is... Normally a coil over setup could cost between $300 - $500 for the coil overs. Or for a leaf spring setup, $200 - $300 for a rear leaf spring and about $60 for rear shocks.

I paid $40 for my Harley coil overs and the leaf spring I took off of the front axle so it was basically free.
I don't think you will have any problem. Most of the Harley coils are only rated 150-200 lbs each and they will help a lot with the "roll" the buggy spring usually gives you. And I know VERY well about building on a budget! Nice work!
 
Yep. It sounds like you got it figured out! Saving money is a lot of what these cars are about. Good work!
 
I made some windshield posts and mounted my mirrors. And yes, I "borrowed" the idea for the windshield posts. I like short windshields and I'm not a fan of the traditional windshield posts. I saw some like this so I had to borrow the idea. I also cut out a cardboard template for the windshield and put it on to figure out how tall I wanted it. The cardboard is 11" tall. The mirrors actually have blinkers in them too, but you cant see the arrow unless it's lit up.
 

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Hmmm, I've never seen posts like that. Interesting. I like the low, laid back windshield with the wide stance.
 
I agree with bobs. That's a mounting concept I have not seen before. I like unique and different things. :thumbsup: I'm curious, as I'm sure you are, to see if anyone chimes in with any drawback to this design.
 
I agree with bobs. That's a mounting concept I have not seen before. I like unique and different things. :thumbsup: I'm curious, as I'm sure you are, to see if anyone chimes in with any drawback to this design.
I'm sure someone will come up with something. But before they do, let me say that it's not finished. I still have a small post to make and mount to support the middle of the windshield to keep the wind from flexing it. The windshield will be made of a UV resistant Lexan 1/4" sheet.
 
I'm sure someone will come up with something. But before they do, let me say that it's not finished. I still have a small post to make and mount to support the middle of the windshield to keep the wind from flexing it. The windshield will be made of a UV resistant Lexan 1/4" sheet.
Keep us posted on the progress. I'm curious how it all comes together.
 
To the best of my knowledge , in all 50 states , laminated safety glass is required for automotive windshields.

dave
 
Not saying the lexan is good,bad or indifferent , just passing along the law as I know it , so you don't have trouble when it comes to registering/insuring your car!!
dave
 
Will do. I'm going to wait to get the windshield before I make the middle mount, but I'll post it when it's done.

Why the need for a center mount? My windshield is 3/16" safety glass that is 41 1/2" wide between the posts at the top and 9" tall at the center and is very stable. Why clutter things up?



Jim
 
Why the need for a center mount? My windshield is 3/16" safety glass that is 41 1/2" wide between the posts at the top and 9" tall at the center and is very stable. Why clutter things up?

Jim
I assume your windshield is glass? The Lexan will flex in the wind if it doesn't have some kind of support in the middle. It's going to be a very small mount, hardly noticeable, and will also serve as a place to mount the rear view mirror. Something like this...
 

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I assume your windshield is glass? The Lexan will flex in the wind if it doesn't have some kind of support in the middle. It's going to be a very small mount, hardly noticeable, and will also serve as a place to mount the rear view mirror. Something like this...

Yes, my windshield is glass as I stated and I have the mirror mounted on the top of the glass as shown in the picture.

Jim
 
Thanks for the tip dave. We will just see when the time comes I guess. If I have any problems, at least it was less than $100. :thumbsup:
Maybe the MR10 material is different, but the Lexan I use scratches VERY easy, regardless of what they say about scratch resistance. I deal with polycarbinates almost on a daily basis and just normal cleaning will eventually haze it with microscopic scratches. Even though it's UV resistant, it will eventually yellow. And road dirt, sand etc. from driving will sandblast it very quickly. Also, it's very flexible so I would imagine a center support will certainly be needed. Not trying to talk you out of it, just letting you know what to expect.


EDIT: I found this thread and they seem to like it...

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/backdraft-racing/123367-mr10-lexan-windshield-question.html
 
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