Mykk's BMW V8 T-bucket, version 1.5:
- Thread starter Mykk
- Start date
rbsWELDER
Active Member
I use a Harley Davidson battery to start my 350 Chevy engine. No problems!I wanted to see if an inexpensive 12v lawn & garden battery with 350cca would suffice to crank over this engine. Not only for the cost of the smaller battery but also the space saving. You can see I'm experimenting with the wrong size battery mount for it and I'm not completely sold yet.
As a test I hooked the lawn & garden battery up to the current Tbucket via jumper cables. It did crank and fire up the engine, but it was a slow cranking. In the long run the small battery might work because I was really putting it in the worst case scenario.
Mykk
Active Member
Not much progress today. After going back and forth over the battery and it's location, I just opt'd to mount the full size battery mount on the drivers side allowing me to use the optima red top in the currently running car. I decided drivers side because it's opposite the pinion offset and has more room from the driveshaft, as well I can still mount the fuse block, relays, efi and other electronics on the passenger like I originally had planned.
Then spent the rest of the morning with a quart of aircraft stripper and a case of brakleen to finish degunking the axles and ujoints. Once cleaned up I just hung them and shot them in black paint:
I am having trouble with the Jag control arms. The bushings on the hub side of the control arms have studs instead of bolts. To remove the old bushings those studs need to come off. They are stuck-stuck-stuck, I've tried heat, penetrating oil, welding nuts to the ends and applying enough force I'm breaking the studs shorter and shorter instead of removing them. I'm now I'm attempting to drill them out from the backside.
Then spent the rest of the morning with a quart of aircraft stripper and a case of brakleen to finish degunking the axles and ujoints. Once cleaned up I just hung them and shot them in black paint:
I am having trouble with the Jag control arms. The bushings on the hub side of the control arms have studs instead of bolts. To remove the old bushings those studs need to come off. They are stuck-stuck-stuck, I've tried heat, penetrating oil, welding nuts to the ends and applying enough force I'm breaking the studs shorter and shorter instead of removing them. I'm now I'm attempting to drill them out from the backside.
guilld
Active Member
We have a Odyssey battery in the 32 in the trunk. It is small as a lawn mower battery. So far it has never failed to start the car in almost 20 years.
Amazon Odyssey
Amazon Odyssey
Indycars
Well-Known Member
I've used the Odyssey for years also, but I had the PC-680 that is only 3.0" thick, so I laid it down under the seat.
Length: 7.20"
Width: 3.00"
Height: 6.60"
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Length: 7.20"
Width: 3.00"
Height: 6.60"
ODS-AGM16L - ODYSSEY Battery EU
Powersport vehicles need a powerful battery that's built to take the constant pounding that comes with the territory, whether it's is on land, sea, or snow. The ODYSSEY battery can handle it. Featuring rugged construction and packed tightly with pure lead plates, the non-spillable AGM design...
www.odysseybattery.com
.
Mykk
Active Member
The steel powder coated straps the tank shipped with.
Mykk
Active Member
Not much accomplished on the build towards the end of this week. On a bit of a parts hold. The radiator came in. The plan is to mount the radiator 3" further forward from the firewall then bucket #1, giving me the opportunity to mount the engine 2" further forward from the firewall and the radiator 1" further ahead of the engine compared to the current bucket. The sectioned '32 grill will sit on top of the radiator instead of in front of it like Bucket #1.
Mykk
Active Member
Todays project. Modifying & mounting the pedals:
I know the spacing looks a bit goofy, equal pedal spacing would look more pleasing to the eye. Not only was I concerned about the clutch and brake pedal clearing the steering gear at full travel, I was also worried about fitting my size 13's in there and not getting far enough over into the transmission.
On bucket #1 the pedals are staggered, this actually worked pretty good for driving. I wanted to try level mounting the pedal pads for this one because I didn't go as low on the pivot point as I did on #1, they bottom out on the ground and occasionally a speed bump or a driveway angle will snag my pedals... more importantly the accelerator pedal and the ground will wide open throttle my accelerator. Thankfully the EFI controller has a rev limiter.
I know the spacing looks a bit goofy, equal pedal spacing would look more pleasing to the eye. Not only was I concerned about the clutch and brake pedal clearing the steering gear at full travel, I was also worried about fitting my size 13's in there and not getting far enough over into the transmission.
On bucket #1 the pedals are staggered, this actually worked pretty good for driving. I wanted to try level mounting the pedal pads for this one because I didn't go as low on the pivot point as I did on #1, they bottom out on the ground and occasionally a speed bump or a driveway angle will snag my pedals... more importantly the accelerator pedal and the ground will wide open throttle my accelerator. Thankfully the EFI controller has a rev limiter.
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No difference in the body tubs. Originally there were detail differences in fenders, and accessories, but the body tub remained the same. The '23 was different from predecessors with a new, larger firewall (more leg room) and turned out to be the greatest year for production figures. The '26 and '27 both took on a different look with an elongated cowl area and straighter body sides. But '23-'25 bodies are virtually indistinguishable.
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