Patterns - cuts for front of frame for 2.5" crossmember

[Lowrollerchevy]

title says it all, pretty simple stuff here

allows you to cut the frame, slip the tube into place, then wrap the top and bottom of the frame rail around the front of the tube

the top and bottom of the frame will have to be trimmed slightly as they are a slight bit longer then needed to properly wrap around the tube

by the time your done welding you have 180* of weld on the outside of each rail, 360* of weld on the inside of each rail, and 2" across the front .... should be pretty secure in there

 

[Tbucit]

There is one thing you could do if you have a little extra tubing. Instead of two legs make the upper one long enough to wrap to the bottom and avoid the weld seam in the middle.. Just another way to skin the same kat

Randall

 

[Lowrollerchevy]

like such ?

good idea, has the added benefits of

A) the longer the leg, the easier it is to bend
B) hides the weld out of view on the bottom

 

[Youngster]

Another variation would be to use a 2'' tube for the front crossmember. Then pie cut the side rails back 25'' so they taper from 3'' to 2''. You would be suprised how much this cleans up the front end, especially if you are using a 2'' tube axle.

 

[all-world1]

Youngster, what would be the easiest, straightest method for making those 25" long cuts in the side rails, keeping in mind that I have way more experience in cutting wood than steel?

 

[Youngster]

The first set I did, I used a band saw... not good...couldn't keep the cuts square. Next was a sabor saw... better. Now I use a 3'' cutoff wheel in a die grinder...best results.

 

[all-world1]

That's 4, straight 25" cuts on 2 rails with a cutoff wheel. Just thinking about it gives me high blood pressure. Guess I'll give a whirl on a piece of scrap first.
Thanks.

 

[Youngster]

Common Craig... where's your sense of adventure? Just let the wheel do the work!

 

[all-world1]

Okay you talked me into it, once the snow melts.

Question....for those 25" cuts and the relief cuts, I assume you would chamfer those edges 1/16" just like the frame rail edge cuts.

 

[dodgedartgt]

Use your wood working experience and get a metal cutting blade for your circular saw. See this thread I started on the HAMB. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=224320
Due to the thickness of the blade kerf, cut most of the length with the circular blade and finish up with the 3" wheel. Bevel edges and weld.
Mike

 

[all-world1]

Use your wood working experience and get a metal cutting blade for your circular saw. See this thread I started on the HAMB. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=224320
Due to the thickness of the blade kerf, cut most of the length with the circular blade and finish up with the 3" wheel. Bevel edges and weld.
Mike

Thanks Mike for yet another method.

 

[all-world1]

Thanks Mike for yet another method.

 

[RPM]

The fastest easiest way to do that would be a plasma cutter. Lay a guide piece down and clamp it in place then use the plasma up against the guide and make your cut. Probably do all four cuts in just a few minutes.

 

[Youngster]

One thing that should be consided here is the fact that when a rectangular tube is formed, there is a great deal of stress in the metal. When you cut a tube length wise, it will develope a slight bow to the top and bottom sides. The more heat that is introduced into the area, the more stress that is relieved, the more distortion you will get. This is one of those times you want to take your time and try to keep any heat at a minimum. For this reason, I would not advise the use of a plasma cutter.

Be sure to scibe a good straight line to follow when making your cuts. In the packet, I tell you to clamp the rail you're welding to the other rail. This will straighten this area. This is also the reason you want to skip weld the cuts and let them cool.

If you take your time and not rush the process, you will be rewarded with a great looking taper.

 

[terrymac]

Just a thought I used a scrap piece of 1/4" flat bar for a straight edge and clamped it along the cut mark. Makes it easy to follow with a 4 1/2" grinder
Terry