Just finished welding my frame, need help with bracket questions
- Thread starter irishluck
- Start date
fluidfloyd
Active Member
irishluck, Could be just the camera angle but I believe you have a 8" unit. The easiest way to verify this see if you can use a deep socket on all ten studs. If it is a 9' you will not be able to gte that socket on the one of the lower one but will be required to use a open end wrench as the iron case actually overhangs that one stud. If in fact it is a 8" all is not lost as they are really pretty good units and should handle use in most any street rod or Tbucket with no problem. I prefer them over pretty much ant C-Clip retainer differential such a the 10 or 12 bolt GM units. That also includes the Ford housings as well. I like the positive retaining axle design as well as the big sealed ball bearings. Either design will be OK . Just a personal preference having narrowed or built a ton on Ford steel housings over the years. This is not a street housing but one of my Pro Stock units in later years after I had moved to digital picture taking. Have been building all racing type fabricated housings since 1980 starting with Top Fuel. After 17 years I pretty much hung it up as I was becoming a rearend! Still have all the tooling to build all stules of housing but never really entered the street market for personal reasons. Not even sure I would build myself one when and if I get around to build a roadster for myself. Guess we'll just have to see. Good luck with your rear end choice.
George
See link below the pictures.
How to Build a Winning Drag Race Chassis and Suspension
2old2fast
Active Member
That sure looks like an ,8" housing .......what's throwing me off is I thought all the 8" carriers had the waffle pattern ribs above the pinion .....Aren't most 8" -28 spline axles ???......whether it's an 8 of 9 ,if its '60 or newer , you shouldn't have ave trouble getting parts...,.was there a tag ??
old round fart
Well-Known Member
Had an 8” in an’32 coupe with no
Problems.
Problems.
Hackerbilt
Active Member
I'm trying to figure out what had spring to chassis brackets like that.The guy had a 2nd axle and i grabbed it instead. Its a 58" maybe 58.5" axle. I have to tremove the tires off to get a good measurement. I think he said it was off a versa. The other one that was 68" looked to be off a ford van and he did measure it correctly.
Overall, I think this was 100% worth the $100 purchase. Now to get the brackets, clean the axle up and paint it and start mounting it all!
Inside the frame mounting? That's unusual and unlike anything I've ever come across.
BTW...You should not have unbolted the pinion snout from the main housing.
I'd put the bolts back in that right away...and you might need to clean the shims first as I'm fairly sure that's how you set pinion depth.
Dirt will potentially throw things off.
Looks like a thick crown gear, which on a 9" means a low gear ratio.
I imagine its the same with an 8" rear end.
Count the teeth on the crown and the pinion and divide the smaller number into the large to get the gear ratio.
I'm guessing 3.50 to 1 ratio.
old round fart
Well-Known Member
George, that rear end looks heavy duty! Pro mod?
JetMech727
Active Member
Gorgeous housing George.
fluidfloyd
Active Member
Actually a Pro Stock housing. Both are very simular with the main difference being the Pro Mods require a full floating axle assembly. For those of you that aren't familiar with a floater I will explain. Conventional axles are designed just like your factory sedan. Splined on one end and a large diameter flange with 5 (usually) threaded studs that drive the wheel. If the axle were to break then the wheel can come off. A full floating axle set up uses straight axles with splines on each end. There is a spindle that is welded into the akle tube much like the front spindle on your T-bucket with one exception. It is a large diameter allowing the axle to go through it. A hub with wheel studs runs on that large spindle and drives a spline flange. If you break a axle the wheel and hub stay with the housing. Current Top Fuel & Funny Cars now run large diameter tubular axles that are splined on both ends and in the center and just slide though both wheel hubs and the differential spool. Hope that clears up any questions you might have.
fluidfloyd
Active Member
AusBucket... The one pictured took about 40 hours. A floater unit took about 50 hours. That was based on laser cutting the face plate. Everything else was band sawed or sheared. If I was in a bind O would saw out the faceplate and profile mill the outside perimeter. I have a rotary table tat I could machine one radius then shift it over and machine the mirror radius. Those took a little longer. The one shown weighs about 42 lbs best I remember. Built several that went to your area. One was a Funny car as I remember. Might have been for a car that Gary Phillips was invoked with but would have to check my log book. Also sent a Pro Mod unit complete with axles & 3rd member. Repeat orders from chassis shops seldom changed widths or 4 link center lines which made it easier. Housings were completely welded out. Gasket surface was machined flat then I put the ten screw in stud hole in. Axle bearing ends were then welded on and away it went. Floaters were a little different. After the gasket surface was milled and the stud holes put in I align bored the axle tubes back to a true center line. Floater spindles were then a lite press fit then welded at both ends. Texas summers made for long hard days for sure. Did a couple of IRS center case units but they were for friends where I usually took Jack Daniels and or guns. Always seemed to workout pretty good.
JetMech727
Active Member
Lol. I can remember a lot of deals like that. Best pinstriper I ever knew would stripe whatever you wanted for a bag a of weed.
Seriously, beautiful work. To me the best part of a car gets covered up by the body. I love just staring at a full rolling chassis and all its intricate parts prior to putting the body on.
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