Rad mount

[terrymac]

I know that usually a rad is mounted in rubber. I bought a Superior rad for my 23 and it mounts on 2 brackets built on the side. My question is do I need to put a layer of rubber between the rad & the frame? It seems to me that where it's only mounted on the bottom it would make it rather floppy or without will the rad shake itself to pieces
Thanks for the input

 

[donsrods]

I use big diameter rubber washers, one under each side with a bolt and nut holding it together. You will also need some kind of support rod or rods higher up on the radiator to keep it from moving back and forth. You can tie these into the firewall or frame. I have seen people tie these into the engine, but the problem is that the motor moves around and can move the radiator with it.


Don

 

[tfeverfred]

My Superior radiator had a flat bottom, so I cut a piece of metal stock and placed in on top of my frame tabs. Then, I set the radiator on top. The bolts run through the tabs of the radiator, the metal stock and then the frame tabs. I suppose I could have placed a piece of rubber in there somewhere.

 

[GT63]

I know that usually a rad is mounted in rubber. I bought a Superior rad for my 23 and it mounts on 2 brackets built on the side. My question is do I need to put a layer of rubber between the rad & the frame? It seems to me that where it's only mounted on the bottom it would make it rather floppy or without will the rad shake itself to pieces
Thanks for the input

If you use some of that hose like cool flex it will stiffen up the top.

 

[butch27]

I just made some support rods out of 3/8" round stock and mounted them from the radiator down at a 45 degree to the frame .

 

[v8danh]

rubber is always a good idea when mounting a radiator.the hoses from the rad to the engine will cause some movement of the rad and rubber allows it to move ever so slightly to keep the metal parts from breaking or wearing a hole in it.i used an aftermarket aluminum rad not designed for a T but i made a mount system that supports the radiator firm but not solid i have rubber any where the radiator connects.i have a 32 grill shell that i modified to fit over the whole assembly and the rad mount serves as a grill shell mount too.just a thought. Dan.

 

[Brucer]

what ive seen of mounts is to put a rubber washer between the frame and the radiator mount flange, and put a spring on top with a bolt passing through the spring, radiator mount flange, rubber washer, then the frame mount, then a self locking nut on the bolt and snug it down..

 

[Youngster]

Here's a brace I found on a T on e-bay a while back. I called the guy and he said he used a piece of rubber on the radiator tab and 1 bolt through the brace into the inside of the rail. The thing I like about it is that the brace almost disappears when it's painted. It also wouldn't be hard to develope a shroud if you needed more cooling.

The system Brucer described is basicly the way Henry did it. And yes you should have a piece of rubber or urathane incorperated in there someplace. It acts like a shock absorber.

Ron

 

[kitsan]

The '65 stang rad comes with full height flanges, so mounting with, say, inch-anna-half angle welded to the frame and extending upwards about two thirds the way up those flanges is how I am gonna proceed. I like the rubber washers and springs idea; washers between flange and angle iron support, with a coil spring between angle and the locknut. (Alot like the Speedways mount kit.) Then it's down to the aluminum fabrication shop for an estimate on a twenties-looking cowl to cover the whole thing from view! Gotta feeling I'm gonna have to save up my allowance big-time!

 

[Ted Brown]

You can just make a bracket from the higher stock rad mount, down to the bottom of the rad, across to the other side. leave a tab on the bottom new plate 1/8th material, about 2 to 3 inches wide, now bolt a plate to the bottom of the frame, from side to side. 3/16th will be best here, now bolt the two together with rubber washers, or muffler rubbers, or soft rubber sheet stock 1/4' plus stock on both the top and between the new plates.. You will not need any brace rods, as they just tend to tear the Rad apart, rather than help... use molded hoses top and bottom, never the bend type, as they are too hard on Rad hose connections... and the moulded hoses will hold the rad plenty tight.. If you test your fan pull power when finished, see if it will hold a shop towel to the front of the Rad while idelling, try and keep the fan blade about 3/4 of an inch from the core... If it does not hold the towel, make sure your water pump pully is the smallest one you can find, as this will speed things up, and help a ton with cooling. PS, don't forget to keep enough advance in your timing to keep it cool also, that is where too much compression kills street rods, with this crap gas... Good luck, I know you can do this for very little money, and build that cover with Steel, not Alum, paint it to match your car... any questions, call me direct.. (661) 203-0165