Rear coil over springs

[rooster57]

I think i am going to replace my rear coil-overs. I got them used from the local sprint car builder factor 1 . They are the small body shock carrerra with the small springs. The question is what spring weight are all you guys running for a good ride and what shock. My shock setup is for the bearing mount top and bottom dont know how tough it would be to go to bush mount. Shouldnt be to bad. Pics would help Thanks Guys.

 

[GT63]

I think i am going to replace my rear coil-overs. I got them used from the local sprint car builder factor 1 . They are the small body shock carrerra with the small springs. The question is what spring weight are all you guys running for a good ride and what shock. My shock setup is for the bearing mount top and bottom dont know how tough it would be to go to bush mount. Shouldnt be to bad. Pics would help Thanks Guys.

I just went through the same process. I found a bad rear shock and decided to replace both rears. I ordered a set of QA1's with 125lb springs. I like that these are adjustable.

QA1 coilovers

 

[Ted Brown]

I think i am going to replace my rear coil-overs. I got them used from the local sprint car builder factor 1 . They are the small body shock carrerra with the small springs. The question is what spring weight are all you guys running for a good ride and what shock. My shock setup is for the bearing mount top and bottom dont know how tough it would be to go to bush mount. Shouldnt be to bad. Pics would help Thanks Guys.

Tim, Just why are you wanting to change springs?? ride too hard?? too soft?? Too much movement or not enough?? You can just move the springs and get a totally different ride out of them, (ahead of the rear end will make them softer) and mount a set of shocks in a different place than the springs, same goes for shocks, they work totally different in different mounting positions... You can make a stiff shock softer with leverage and/or angle, same for springs... Remember LEVERAGE is the key to a good ride... Let me know

 

[Ted Brown]

When I use a separate set of shocks while using coil-overs for the spring mounts, I drill the inner shocks to drain out all fluid so it is now just a spring carrier... A lot of the time the shocks work better in a different location than the springs.

 

[rooster57]

Ted the ride is very stiff and the mini sprint shocks have less travel than the bigger shocks.

 

[Ted Brown]

Ted the ride is very stiff and the mini sprint shocks have less travel than the bigger shocks.

With the springs/shocks mounted to the rear, it requires even more travel, by moving them farther forward, they not only travel less, you get more leverage to the springs, so now they work a lot softer... I only mount springs to the rear on heavier cars, unless the customer insists for the look of it... Tilt the top even more forward to get even more leverage and a softer ride yet... Just be sure that your U Joints will stand the movement without getting all up in a bunch = Bind and break... My drive shaft is only 71/2" C to C of the U joints... So, I have rubber travel stops for both directions, UP and DOWN... as the shocks would let the rear travel more than will work... I ride in a very SWEET spot, in the middle of that travel..

 

[rooster57]

Ted what is your spring weight

 

[rooster57]

GT63 does the 125 give you a good ride???

 

[Ted Brown]

Tim, I never tested them for numbers, only how they worked with my chassis and weight, as anyone can use whatever springs they have with the right placement = leverage again..

 

[GT63]

GT63 does the 125 give you a good ride???

I'll let you know when I get them installed. Right now I have the rearend out of my T. It needed some upgrades. When I pulled it out is when I found the broke shock.

 

[Track T-4]

Rooster57,

I'm in the process of replacing my rear coil overs and am looking at Pro Shocks (www.proshocks.com). I think my current shocks are shot and the springs are adjusted up all the way, plus I only have about 1.5" of clearance between the chassis and the diff and it's bottoming out on bumps so want to go to 3" clearance. Jim Bailey is Pro Shocks' streetrod guy and he's been very helpful. I emailed him the weights of the car, angle of the shocks, current and desired shock length and some photos and he recommended the replacement.

 

[gfigms]

With the springs/shocks mounted to the rear, it requires even more travel, by moving them farther forward, they not only travel less, you get more leverage to the springs, so now they work a lot softer... I only mount springs to the rear on heavier cars, unless the customer insists for the look of it... Tilt the top even more forward to get even more leverage and a softer ride yet... Just be sure that your U Joints will stand the movement without getting all up in a bunch = Bind and break... My drive shaft is only 71/2" C to C of the U joints... So, I have rubber travel stops for both directions, UP and DOWN... as the shocks would let the rear travel more than will work... I ride in a very SWEET spot, in the middle of that travel.. :cheer:

Finally! someone that has a drive shaft as short as mine ... I was beginning to think I had done something wrong.

 

[Ted Brown]

A short drive shaft makes for more weight on the rear tires, this is where 90 degree crossed yokes give more movement without binding = breaking of U joint when hitting a bad dip without travel stops, really need travel stops for the down movement, and you can use the shocks for the up stops if you want or straps around housing or a bracket to the top of the center section to hold the belt... Just don't let the housing hang down too far... Been there, sadly done that PS, try and get the line up as close to center of movement/travel as possible... :cheer: