Is that the right name for those threaded thingies that are squeezed into a hole? What have you used and, are you satisfied? Where to get them? I realize they aren't for high stress apps but would maybe be ok for use in areas where one can't get behind for a nut, low stress. thanks for any help.
rivet nuts?
- Thread starter skinny mike
- Start date
2old2fast
Active Member
probably can get those on eBay , Amazon , Grainger , McMaster Carr, fastenal , are just a few you can order from ....read the data sheet , those are pretty darn strong when installed correctly ... I have 4 -1/4" nutserts holding up my gas tank , same on my headlight stands , a couple holding the rear license plate mount , probably a couple more somewhere ..,..
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Appreciate the replies. These things gonna help!.
old round fart
Well-Known Member
Once mounted a sway bar on a road race with 3/8” rivnuts. Never had a problem.
I use them to hold my bodies down and have been proven in one crash. Total Performance use to use the rubber swell type that looked like freeze plugs.
That was some big holes in the frame or side brackets . I also use aluminum pucks of whatever thickness to get the body drop level with the bottom of the frame and large diameter (2-3 inch )washers with the bolts. 3/8" rivnuts/nut-sert and bolts of any length as long as the shoulder doesn't hit the rivnut/nut-sert once it goes through the floor material.
That was some big holes in the frame or side brackets . I also use aluminum pucks of whatever thickness to get the body drop level with the bottom of the frame and large diameter (2-3 inch )washers with the bolts. 3/8" rivnuts/nut-sert and bolts of any length as long as the shoulder doesn't hit the rivnut/nut-sert once it goes through the floor material.
Indycars
Well-Known Member
I've had one come loose in 30 years, it just kept turning in the frame so I couldn't get the bolt
out. It took awhile to finally get it out. The only other downside to them is the size of the hole
you have to drill. I prefer to drill and tap the frame, but the rivnuts do have their place.
out. It took awhile to finally get it out. The only other downside to them is the size of the hole
you have to drill. I prefer to drill and tap the frame, but the rivnuts do have their place.
old round fart
Well-Known Member
A reamed hole works best. If the hole is a little big or not round you get Indycars problem.
I have used a lot of nutserts over the years, and to reduce the incidence of oversize holes I drill the hole slightly undersize to start then open it up with the correct drill. A new drill just for this helps as they usually drill on size unlike a drill that has been resharpened incorrectly and drills oversize. We usually use a bit of Loctite on the sert to stop it turning in the hole. I also limit the torque when tightening up so the threads aren't stretched out of shape.
Regards,
Regards,
choppinczech
Well-Known Member
I like to use them too in steel, aluminum and fiberglass. Try to get the twist-resistant ones. They're less likely to spin. McMaster-Carr is where I get them.
I also always get the exact size drill bit for that rivet nut. Sometimes they're a letter size drill bit for the larger rivet nuts.
In a fiberglass panel I use this style and glass them in. The 4 fingers flare out.
There's also rivet studs that can be handy. Especially in fiberglass panels.
And these help a lot with installs. Mine has four different sized mandrels. 10-24, 1/4-20, 5/16-18 and 3/8-16.
I also always get the exact size drill bit for that rivet nut. Sometimes they're a letter size drill bit for the larger rivet nuts.
In a fiberglass panel I use this style and glass them in. The 4 fingers flare out.
There's also rivet studs that can be handy. Especially in fiberglass panels.
And these help a lot with installs. Mine has four different sized mandrels. 10-24, 1/4-20, 5/16-18 and 3/8-16.
Gerry
Well-Known Member
Great info, thanks. Will solve some problems.
Dan Lockwood
New Member
I agree, stepped or Uni-bit type drills will give you a nice round hole and some come in such small incremental steps you're bound to find "just the right size".
Before I had rivet type inserts and needed to bolt to steel frame or steel square tubing, I would drill a hole, say just large enough to tightly drive in a 5/16" nut into the hole with the corners keeping it tight in the drilled hole. I would use a bolt, washer and nut on the outside to drive the nut into the frame flush. Then remove the bolt and weld the nut into the frame and then grind it down. Now I have a nut welded into the frame. I've done this for decades, but the rivet style are so much easier to use.
Like the chart that Indycars posted, it's VERY important that you use the correct crush thickness for the rivet nuts you're using.
In lieu of a tool to install these, I've gotten by before with just a bolt, washer and the rivet nut. Thread the bolt into the rivet nut with the washer and nut up the bolt. Then stick it into the hole in the metal and start to tighten it with the nut on the top of the washer. A little grease on the outside nut and washer helps a bit.
There are both aluminum and steel rivet nuts, so pick wisely for your purpose.
Before I had rivet type inserts and needed to bolt to steel frame or steel square tubing, I would drill a hole, say just large enough to tightly drive in a 5/16" nut into the hole with the corners keeping it tight in the drilled hole. I would use a bolt, washer and nut on the outside to drive the nut into the frame flush. Then remove the bolt and weld the nut into the frame and then grind it down. Now I have a nut welded into the frame. I've done this for decades, but the rivet style are so much easier to use.
Like the chart that Indycars posted, it's VERY important that you use the correct crush thickness for the rivet nuts you're using.
In lieu of a tool to install these, I've gotten by before with just a bolt, washer and the rivet nut. Thread the bolt into the rivet nut with the washer and nut up the bolt. Then stick it into the hole in the metal and start to tighten it with the nut on the top of the washer. A little grease on the outside nut and washer helps a bit.
There are both aluminum and steel rivet nuts, so pick wisely for your purpose.
JetMech727
Active Member
Actually they are called a "Rivnut". And yes we use them in aviation for a threaded insert in a blind access area that is not structual.
JetMech727
Active Member
Actually I stand corrected. They "are" called "Rivet Nuts". My apologies! 
Once again my grammar gets me in trouble. We get them out of the tool crib here at work and I just ask for a rivnut installer. We have pneumatic installers as well but I prefer the mechanical when I have room. I feel like I can set them a little tighter.
Once again my grammar gets me in trouble. We get them out of the tool crib here at work and I just ask for a rivnut installer. We have pneumatic installers as well but I prefer the mechanical when I have room. I feel like I can set them a little tighter. Similar threads
