I guess Competition Engineering and alot of the other suspension mfg.'ers are going to have to recall all their suspension preducts soon....not to mention the top chassis builders around the country
Oh the **** talking has started... And it is started by someone that doesnt understand what were talking about, and doesnt understand how what he is linking to is different than what I am describing. Nice... Since you seem so intent on proving me wrong, Screaming Metal, let me use your links to both defend myself, and prove your stupidity.
Lil Demon's NHRA Rules Section 1A
http://findfastcars.com/NHRARules.html - 100k - similar pagesEither grade is acceptable for use in FIA competition, and racers should .... least eight 7/16-inch (11.1 mm) diameter grade 8 (or Class 12.9) bolts or high ...
I read that page three times. And never found that quote. Or anything relevent to this conversation. But I did find that quote in a google search. Here it is in its entirety "The motor plate must be fastened to the flywheel shield with at least eight 7/16-inch (11.1 mm) diameter grade 8 (or Class 12.9) bolts or high strength"
Yeah... Motor plate fastening ? Did you even bother to read these before linking to them ? We are discussing suspension mounting on street driven T buckets !
NHRA West Central Division news: NHRA Technical Rule Changes for 2009
http://www.nhradiv5....33889&zoneid=15 - 51k - similar pagesSuspension: Four-link rear-suspension car may use a single spring and shock .... or four 3/8-inch Grade 8 fasteners per 100 pounds and be NHRA accepted. ... Helmet Shroud: Bolt heads must be 1/2-inch hex-style head; no clearance slots ...
All day I couldnt understand the "per 100 pound" part. Well when I did a google search I did. Here is the full quote "Ballast: Must be secured with minimum of two 1/2-inch or four 3/8-inch Grade 8 fasteners per 100 pounds and be NHRA accepted"
I never did track down the part about the four link. Did you pull that outta your ass ? Why could I track down everthing else you quoted but that ? And Ballast fastening ? How the **** does ballast fastening relate to T bucket suspension ? It doesnt. In your haste to prove me wrong, your didnt read this stuff. And I also dont suppose you noticed the 1/2" bolt part ? "two 1/2-inch or four 3/8-inch Grade 8 fasteners" notice no mention of a 1/2" grade ? I suppose you also dont remember where I posted earlier about going up a bolt size before going up in grade ? No I am sure you didnt read that long technical post.
You too can build a slingshot that works as good as this one. Our car ran 9.992 with a basically stock small block 302 Ford with injection. Some where around 285 HP !! puts you in the 9s. A mild small block chevy or windsor would put you in the mid to low 9s at 150 mph. We are in the process of building our new engine to run 7.50s.
Old Style Straight Axle Front End
No A-Arms here. we only build nostalgia looking rails. We use SPE Anglia Style spindles with 3 arm steering. 5/8" radius rods and steering linkage come pre-tapped with chrome moly rod ends and grade 8 hardware. Nothing else to buy...we make it easy for you to build.
Certified Cage with Nostalgia Look
We build all our frame kits with single spine cage to give it a nostalgia look. Cage is up to date with 1" helmet bars and 1 1/2" main tubes. Our upper rail is upswept to keep the cage short looking, much like a Gilmore car. We have had guys in our car that were 6 ft 5 inch tall and up to 300 lbs.
Did you look at it ? That is flimsy, and makes my point exactly about lightweight race car stuff not being for the street. All 3/8" fasteners, 5/8" tubing for the drag link and radius bars ? Yeah thats a good example of how to build your street car. Build your car just like that... PLEASE. And come back and tell us how it is working several years down the road.
Building Hot Rod Rear Suspension - Street Rodder Magazine
http://www.streetrodderweb.com / tech / 0902sr_building_hot_rod_ / index.html - 93k - similar pagesWhen designing or choosing suspension concepts to use in your hot rod, ... slug and drilled it for a 5/8-inch Grade 8 bolt to be welded into place from the inside. .... After de-burring the front of the shortened (14 inches) radius rod, ...
They even use them in street projects also....hum....
This one is good. At least a street car, wth the bolts on single shear. Maybe I have been harsh on saying you dont understand... But wait... a grade 8 bolt welded in ? Thats what you choose to prove me wrong ? I am with bob on this. As is most of the interenet... A welded gr 8, loaded in single shear ? Kinda scary. But since you know nothing about this, how would you know ? You should have passed this one by. This is a very poor choice to try and make a point. But is kinda how you have went about all this.
You seem to like to name drop.... That first chassis company you mentioned, DR1 Chassis, all google turned up was a data recorder ? Or a prototype corvette. Not sure how any of that applies ? More **** you didnt read up on ? ( oh I see another thread where you typed the name wrong. A name dropper that cant get it right... Nice. That other name, JD1 also didnt come up in a google search. ). The second name you mentioned, mark williams chassis, I found on google. A quick 10 minute search around their site turned up nothing saying grade 8. I did notice a pic on their site showing the modular rear end housings with 12 pt fasteners. And I would be willing to bet they are aircraft grade fasteners. But also not loaded in single shear. They were in tension. So sadly, nothing there to prove me wrong. You mentioned chassis engineering. I didnt see any T bucket suspension on there. I also didnt see anything in the suspension item descriptions saying grade 8. (but the motor plate mount description did). Nor did I see one thing that was single shear. Oh thats right... You dont understand what it is I have been saying this whole time. And have completely missed the point that we are on a T bucket site... Dealing with Street driven cars. You have based your whole arguement on nothing applying to a street car. And nothing that really has any relevent value. A few wrong quotes, and poor examples. In all of this, You have actually proved something I posted in another thread...
There is a lot of good advice on the internet. There is also a lot of bad advice. The problem is separating the two. The worst advice, can sometimes make the most sense to someone who doesnt have any knowledge on a subject. Do your own home work, spend a little time on google doing searches, and apply some intelligent thought to all you read.
I never figured I would be arguing against some made up, false quotes, intended to mislead. But I guess we all just learned a lot about you.
You can build your car however you want. But dont do this bull**** trying to mislead people.
For any of you that actually care to learn a little bit...
Http://www.enginebui...ener_facts.aspx
I am done here too. Once it gets to where someone feels the need to post misleading quotes to win an argument, its worthless to even try.
Pass that popcorn here too. I already have a dr.pepper...
uch:
