Spring Shackle

[railroad]

What type of bracket do you put on a wishbone to attach the the spring shackle for mounting the spring behind the axle. I have seen the T post, with a tube, but the bolt seems too short to reach through both sides of the wishbone. The gentleman I bought the axle from said, he just butt welded the bushing tube T to the side of the wishbone. I would not enjoy driving this way. I am sure I will see some set-ups at the BASH, but thought I would ask also.

thanks,
railroad

 

[Youngster]

You can use a pair of model A axle perches but you'll need to have a longer main leaf made for the spring if you use the axle you have. Again a '37 to '40 axel will work better. You can use a stock model A spring then.

here's a '39 axle set up that way;

Here's a 29" spring set up on a '35 axle using a piece of dom tubing;

Ron

 

[railroad]

Great job and pics. I could even adjust my height by placing the tube higher or lower on the wishbone. Nice work. I noticed you covered the two brackets after attaching them. I've got to do some clean up and shaping on the front tube of the frame. I was looking for a 1" belt sander, what tool do you use to clean up your welds?

Thanks
railroad.

 

[Youngster]

A 4" grinder and files. Yep you can adjust to whatever hiegth you want your car to sit.

Ron

 

[Wicked50Coupe]

Here are a couple pictures of what I did. I feel safer than hanging on just my welding. I still have to weld these into position so they don't pull up off the radius arms.

 

[bucketkids]

Hey Wicked50 in the pics I see you mounted the brake mounts with the nuts toward the center. Did you do that for a reason? I have my nuts inside and the allen head showing. You can kinda see in the pic. It's all together now and looks good but I don't have any new pics on my laptop yet.

 

[Lee_in_KC]

Hey W-50-C, you ain't got a hair on your hiney if you don't drive it like that... no welds... gravity is your friend. Talk about a suicide front end!!

 

[Ted Brown]

When using those type of radius rods, they really need to be heated about 12 inches back, heat an area about 4 or 5 inches all around, using a bud tip and slowly bend the rod (careful so as not to kink the material) so that it fits much closer to the frame, this will allow for the tires to be able to turn without hitting the rods way too soon, then you can mount the spring hangers and shocks...

 

[donsrods]

We've done a couple like the pictures below. It not only lowers the front end, but it gussets the wishbone too.

Don

 

[Wicked50Coupe]

Hey W-50-C, you ain't got a hair on your hiney if you don't drive it like that... no welds... gravity is your friend. Talk about a suicide front end!!

I haven't welded them on yet like I said.

 

[Wicked50Coupe]

Hey Wicked50 in the pics I see you mounted the brake mounts with the nuts toward the center. Did you do that for a reason? I have my nuts inside and the allen head showing. You can kinda see in the pic. It's all together now and looks good but I don't have any new pics on my laptop yet.

You're right, It would look better. I temprarily put them on this way I guess because that's the way it was mounted when I got the car. I'll definatley clean things up on final assembly though.

 

[Wicked50Coupe]

We've done a couple like the pictures below. It not only lowers the front end, but it gussets the wishbone too.

Don

I seriously considered doing it your way because it looks so nice, but I have a trust issue with relying soley on my weld in this situation. I can picture myself driving this car with an ulcer already.

 

[railroad]

Hey W 50 C I noticed you have some obviously used rotors on your front end. Did they fit with the stock bearings or did you use something out of a kit. If you can tell me what they came off of, maybe I can find some drums that will slid on. I think I can make almost any backing plate fit. I am still hoping I can find some drums with 5 X 4 1/2" pattern that I can fit to the spindles.
Thanks for the suggestions on the wishbones.

railroad

 

[Wicked50Coupe]

Hey W 50 C I noticed you have some obviously used rotors on your front end. Did they fit with the stock bearings or did you use something out of a kit. If you can tell me what they came off of, maybe I can find some drums that will slid on. I think I can make almost any backing plate fit. I am still hoping I can find some drums with 5 X 4 1/2" pattern that I can fit to the spindles.
Thanks for the suggestions on the wishbones.

railroad

I have no idea, I just got the car with all this on it. I did take the part numbers off everything but the spindle though. Don't know if anything will help ya.
Rotor: 33 7220 D2
Inner Bearing: L68149 URB
Outer Bearing: LM 11949 NDH
Left Caliper: 8L J284 NGM 105474338
Right Caliper: 9R J214 NGM 56474339

 

[Lee_in_KC]

I haven't welded them on yet like I said.

Hey, I was just messin' with ya, bud. :razz:

 

[Wicked50Coupe]

Hey, I was just messin' with ya, bud. :razz:

Sorry, I've been on the H.-butthole-B. They make a coment like that without reading. I think they just do it - well, I don't know why they do it. Anyway, I posted my car asking if it looked too long. Guess it did because the vultures jumped on the bandwagon throwing the ratrod name around, then the thread was locked. Funny thing is, my car is barely mocked up and I was asking for advice. Shit, they acted like I was done and driving it or something. So, I'm a little reluctant to post anything until it's finished anymore. It is a good way to find out if it won't work before you fail though.

 

[Youngster]

I had a simular experience over there when i was asking about jag rear ends. Boo, hiss go away, so i did. Thier loss not mine.
You won't have that problem here. These guys are all very helpfull.

Ron

 

[bucketkids]

And I love the pics because when I see something like a bolt reverse as to the way I am building mine it's easier to ask why than to screw up my new rotors or something. A buddy of mine years ago rebuilt a vet and destroid the front end the first time he backed it out of his shop. (not good) I put the caliper mounting brackets on one side bolts in and one out. put everything on but the brake lines and then changed the one side to where you could see the allen bolt heads. So when I seen yours I had to ask as there is just so many things I am learning here. 1st thing I learned is I don't know sh-- about building a t-bucket. But, this place is a great school and a fun place to be. Thanks for all the help as i'm sure it's saving me thousands of dollars!

 

[Wicked50Coupe]

And I love the pics because when I see something like a bolt reverse as to the way I am building mine it's easier to ask why than to screw up my new rotors or something. A buddy of mine years ago rebuilt a vet and destroid the front end the first time he backed it out of his shop. (not good) I put the caliper mounting brackets on one side bolts in and one out. put everything on but the brake lines and then changed the one side to where you could see the allen bolt heads. So when I seen yours I had to ask as there is just so many things I am learning here. 1st thing I learned is I don't know sh-- about building a t-bucket. But, this place is a great school and a fun place to be. Thanks for all the help as i'm sure it's saving me thousands of dollars!

I'm not claiming these are right, just slapped it together this way for now. In fact, the steering hoop that I need to mount on the driver side has two studs that go inward through the top holes. That would make the nuts face the outside of the car. You just have to move everything to make sure clearance is there. I tried to buy 16" wheels for my 2003 Dodge ram once. The tire shop bolted the wheels on and the truck wouldn't move anywhere. The calipers dug into the insides of the wheels when they mounted them. I was real glad that I ordered them through a tire shop instead of mail order.