Yea, Lee, There was a tell-tell slickness look to the bores....rings look like they didn't seat.
If it were me, get a seat of Sealed Power Crome-Moly top ring with Cast 2nd w/ expander oil ring.
They do make a Hard Cast top ring, with a stock cast 2nd....either will work good in your case.
The chrome-moly top ring setup is a good ole not fancy dependable hotrod ring setup most folks used thru the 70's on thru to the 90's....
You can go as fancy or as simple as you want. Simple has always won the races, kept the motors running on the streets.
I'd go with the stock steel truck crank, with chamfered oil holes/ magnafluxed/ shotpeened/ stress releived. But the stock cast one will work it your not romping on it frequently. I would send it of to be deburred, oil holes chamfered, nitrided, and micropolished, at the least. Have them check the indexing and the balancing also. That, even though is a stock cast crank, will live a long life behind that blown motor IF you keep your foot out of it.
Pistons need to be forged, and the rods steel with good bolts.
The Forged Pistons have come down in price so much, theres little diff. in the money, while a Big gain in strength is had.
Steel rods aren't as prohibitively expensive as they used to be, but, you can get some good street rods thru RHS or Scat.
SINCE, your gonna be getting the rods and the pistons, send the whole thing off, crank with the flexplate, drive hub and all have have it balanced. A few more dollars but well worth it. Send the bolts for the flexplate and the drive hub and tell them to label them.
Not all bolts are the same length, etc, and that effects balance. I normally etch the #'s on....keeps stress risers down on the bolts.
Since you can't get a direct pull on some of those intake bolts,(allen wrenches flex when using long ones, only the short ones won't flex), go with the ARP 12 Point bolts. And use washers on the blower intake.
When you torque down, do 3 stages, once @ 10 or 15 lbs., once @ 25 to 28 lbs, then at your final pull.
Use a thin coat of silicone on the threads on install, it will seal the threads, it will also act as a thread lube to give you a truer torque reading...
Remember, let it sit a while, then retorque, that gives the bolts a chance to stretch slightly, if they are, and then doublecheck the torque....
as far as a cam, a stock cam or something close to stock is fine. At the low rpm your motors turning at low boost....your not gonna see any horses anyway (not from the cam, anyway).
(Your suppossed to use a 'Blower' cam, which does help, but only on higher rpm motors)....
That blower pressurizing your intake is all you need....don't try to reinvent the wheel here, its a nice blown TBucket not the Space Shuttle....
Still, none of these bolts stayed torqued. Again, no thread sealer or Loctite was used on these bolts.
