Sudden Increase in Blow-by

[RPM]

The end gap on the top ring is way less than the second ring, ring collapsed? Valve guides and valve would not make it leak into the crankcase. The oil seeping around the intake bolts, it can't get into the runners of the intake, can it?

 

[one finger john]

I'm right with Indycars. Do the next build yourself.

From the looks of the pistons I would have to say you got what is called a "claimer" motor.
The pistons were obviously cast and were not meant for supercharging.

Interesting note - KB Pistons - Keith Black Pistons appear to be made by United Engine & Machine who now produce their pistons in Mexico. It also appears that Silvo-Lite Pistons are related to KB Pistons. (probably by marriage).

Everybody gets bit in their life time. Welcome to the club. The real eye opener will be for the cost of parts to assemble a real quality engine.

In 2005 you probably spent approx. $5500.00 for the motor. Including blower.

You have the blower & carbs & manifold and heads, so figure $4000.00 to $5000.00 for a quality short block with all the upgrades, plus additions.

You got 10,000 miles out of this one which can not be rebuilt for approx. $5500.00 to $6500.00.
Invest $5000.00 now and get at least three times the miles out of the improved engine.

The new engine might just out live you.

John

 

[RPM]

The engine that is in the silver T Bucket in my avatar, I had $10,000 in it, parts and machine work. Everything was new except for the block itself.

 

[Lee_in_KC]

Build the motor yourself, it's the only way to know for sure !!!

I am really tempted to do that, but I don't have all the tools I need. I have several videos on building performance motors and I am comfortable that I could do it.

 

[Lee_in_KC]

From the looks of the pistons I would have to say you got what is called a "claimer" motor.
The pistons were obviously cast and were not meant for supercharging.

LOL, "claimer motor" was my thought, too!!

In 2005 you probably spent approx. $5500.00 for the motor. Including blower.

LOL, you missed it by almost half! In the space between the radiator and the transmission I have $10,000.

The new engine might just out live you.

The truthiness of your observation is a little unnerving!

 

[Lee_in_KC]

The end gap on the top ring is way less than the second ring, ring collapsed? Valve guides and valve would not make it leak into the crankcase. The oil seeping around the intake bolts, it can't get into the runners of the intake, can it?

Yeah Ron, the ring gaps are funky. The ring material is the same for both... I'm guessing chrome moly. The oil ring/expander is very tight to the piston. Can't be exerting much scraping pressure.

The oil coming in through the intake bolts appears to be getting into the plenum through the gasket between the manifold and the blower case. The gasket (supplied by BDS) is very thin... almost like paper.

 

[Hotrod46]

Lee, I have had trouble over the years with the center manifold bolts on Chevy's weaping oil. Regular thread sealer didn't seem to work (I tried different brands), although it worked fine on the bolts in the water jacket.

I have resorted to silicone on the threads and under the bolt head. Kind of messy, but I use denatured alcohol to clean up the excess silicone that squeezes out. I give the silicone time to completely set up before starting the engine. So far this has eliminated my oil weaps.

There may be a another way. Just FYI.

FWIW, I would also build the engine myself unless you can find a trust worthy builder. A brand new bare 4-bolt GM block from Summit is less than $900. A Dart block is about twice that. The GM block is set up for a factory style roller cam, so no more flat tappet worries.

Good luck.

Mike

 

[one finger john]

Chevrolets do not require Special or "trick" tools. Most common wrenches and sockets will do the job.
(Keep them scrupulously clean) The real tools that you will need will be a 1/2 in. torque wrench, a 3/8 in. torque wrench, a quality dial gauge, I prefer a quality straight edge, bore gauges (for the rods, mains and bores), outside gauges (for the mains, rods, and pistons), a good set of "snap" gauges, (A substitute for the internal bore gauges), quality caliper, will you check valve spring pressure?, light pressure valve spring for piston to valve clearance, modeling clay (same), feeler gauge set,

What have I forgotten?

You shouldn't have buy these tools, you can borrow them from friends (did I say that?, the one who does not loan tools?). Get quality, reliable, accurate tools. Remember to be nice to the borrowees.

Find out the different sections of the engine you will be working on and ask for guidance [how do I assemble the bottom end, what kind of oil pump should I buy, what kind of carb should I run on my 350]{just kidding} (from mechanic friends, this site, The Yellow Bullet [Steve Uratchko's forum], or the Speed Talk engine tech forum. Also check the chevrolet clubs. If you are not sure always ask for help & guidance.

John

 

[Screaming Metal]

yep, guys, somebody built a motor with questionable parts and questionable techniques.
If your into getting your hands dirty, build it yourself....all you need is like what OFJ said, torque wrench, plastigage, sockets, wrenches, couple of oil squirt cans, electric drill, primer shafts, cut up fuel line to go over rod bolts, a degree wheel kit, 1/2 a brain, and a eye for detail...
Now, if you want the easy way, have your shortblock built, heads done, and assemble it yourself. Just build yourself a good basic hotrod motor, steel crank, steel rods, forged pistons @ 7.5 to1....good basic valvejob on your heads, assemble it all and roll for the next 25 years....done deal....
Buy a shortblock from someone you know, get a Scat crank, rods and pistons, have them assemble the shortblock right....

Or, just get a Scat shortblock or a GMGoodWrench with the goodies you want and/or need. Wanna spend the money, get that Chevy 502, stick that 6-71 on that....Will put a smile on your face for days! You only live once.
Sit behind a good healthy blown big block, nothing else quite measures up....

 

[Screaming Metal]

I have resorted to silicone on the threads and under the bolt head. Kind of messy, but I use denatured alcohol to clean up the excess silicone that squeezes out. I give the silicone time to completely set up before starting the engine. So far this has eliminated my oil weaps.

Manifold bolts, I wirebrush them good, clean with alcohol, nice thin coating of silicon sealer on threads, torque to specs...

 

[RPM]

@Lee_in_KC check out Big Al's. I know two people who have these engines and love them.

Big Al's Toybox - Shortblocks and Longblocks Engines

 

[RPM]

Also Small Block Chevy Supercharged Power Adder Short Block

 

[one finger john]

Oh man Lee, can't you feel the love .....






of Horse Power !!!

John

 

[2old2fast]

On the web there's at least 4 performance engine builders in your area , ask around, you should be able to find someone who'll fix you up , either a complete short block , or do the machining , then you can assemble...let's face it , most of us don't have all the equipment to really "build" an engine , however , working w/ a competent machine shop, we can assemble an engine ..
dave

 

[railroad]

I like Jasper Engines, do not know if they do a 383. Could your pcv have pulled oil into the intake?

 

[Lee_in_KC]

Hey Ron! I'm retired! I can't afford Big Al or Shafiroff, as much as I would love to have one of their motors!!! I'm leaning towards doing my own. I actually was planning on building my own the first time, but was running out of time to make the 2006 NTBA Nationals and took the shortcut of having the short block done for me. I was still working then and was building my T in the evenings and weekends. Now that I'm retired, I have the time to do it right.

I have most of the tools I need. The main things I still need are inside and outside gauges, ring grinder, ring compressor and a few other incidentals. I think my heads are good and I don't need to do anything with the springs. I do need to clean up the intake valves and runners, maybe replace the seals.

I'm going to watch the video I have on building a performance 383 to get motivated and also see if there any other tools or other gee-gaws I need. I am one of those folks who neither lends nor borrows tools. If I don't have it, I either buy it o or rent it.

 

[Lee_in_KC]

Could your pcv have pulled oil into the intake?

I considered that, but there is no oil film in the intake plenum. There is no oil build-up in the carb where the vacuum nipple that the PCV hose attaches to comes in. Actually, that seems kind of odd. You would think there would be at least a trace of oil there. I measured the vacuum there when engine was still running, and it was 18 in. (I see there is a typo in my previous post about this... it was 18 not 28!).

 

[2old2fast]

Before you disassmble the heads , here's a tip ...if you feel the area where the valve keepers lock aginst the stem , you'll detect a very slight burr , before you pull the stem through the guide , use a stone or fine file to remove the burr , if you don't , it will score the guide...also , once you pull the valves , the seals need to be replaced using the appropriate installation protective sleeve , otherwise you will damage the seal..just a heads up..
dave

 

[2old2fast]

Do you have a pic of the intake gaskts ??
dave

 

[Lee_in_KC]

Thanks for the tip, Dave. I did not do that when I pulled out #1 intake, but I think I lucked out. I just felt the stem on that valve and no burr. I also shined a light through the guide and it looks good. The video I mentioned goes into quite a bit of detail on installing valves, seals, springs and keepers, including using the protectors. I haven't watched the video in years, so it will be a good refresher.