T frame plans
- Thread starter Youngster
- Start date
I just downloaded them again it worked just fine. In post 41 above click on that link. It will take you right to it. Then scroll down the page and click on download. Took about 4 seconds to download.
Here I went back and got the link again
http://www.savefile.com/download/1403255?PHPSESSID=e86cfd0a131e3b052ab7c2fdeb586d01
Here I went back and got the link again
http://www.savefile.com/download/1403255?PHPSESSID=e86cfd0a131e3b052ab7c2fdeb586d01
oldtman
New Member
tappin the 7/8 dom. I cut the tubing 1 inch longer for each end that needs threads. My lathe is too small so i use a right angle milwaukee electricians drill. I start with the smallest drill bit that will just start removing metal, then keep drilling and moving up in size until I get the right one for the tap. Then I change to the 5/8 bit and drill that extra 1 inch. then I tap the hole. That 5/8 hole will guide your tap in straight. when it's tapped, cut off that extra inch, redrill with the correct drill for the tap, ,, retap.. this gives good straight holes. And always use plenty of good tapping oil when drilling and tapping.
LumenAl
Member
ok... I'm lost.. I use tie rod ends on my radius rods where they attach to the frame and at the ends of my 4 link for the rear... but nothing is threaded into the frame... there is a special tapered flange and the Tie Rods are held in place with castle nuts... so where does the threaded bungs, made from 11/4" hex bar stock come in?
Bill Pedersen
Member
This is a weld in tube adapter from Mark Williams.
3/4"-16 to 1 1/4" x .095
For 1-1/4 x .095 tubing, hex wrench driver for 4-link. Threaded weld in tube adapters make fabricating linkage, struts or any other application that require joining a male rod end or threaded clevis to chromoly tubing a snap.
3/4"-16 to 1 1/4" x .095
For 1-1/4 x .095 tubing, hex wrench driver for 4-link. Threaded weld in tube adapters make fabricating linkage, struts or any other application that require joining a male rod end or threaded clevis to chromoly tubing a snap.
All the tube stuff we make, we use 1" OD DOM with a .219" wall. Most is tapped with a 5/8-18 tap whoch seems to be standard to the T Bucket stuff. We do the radius rods, drag links and tie rods from this tube. We have seen a lot of the 7/8" tube radius rods bend.
In my pesonal bucket I use the same tube but it is drilled and tapped 3/4-16. It has a Moroso 4 link in it.
In my pesonal bucket I use the same tube but it is drilled and tapped 3/4-16. It has a Moroso 4 link in it.
Bill Pedersen
Member
Hi Vistin,
I hope that my picture didnt cause any confusion. When Ted mentioned the hex type of weld in bung, I just posted a picture without looking at the size. RPM makes some very nice heavy-duty parts.
Total Performance plans show x .156 wall with a x 20 thread, while Speedway and CCR use 7/8 x .156 with a 5/8 x18 thread. Im not sure what Spirit is using.
Bill
I hope that my picture didnt cause any confusion. When Ted mentioned the hex type of weld in bung, I just posted a picture without looking at the size. RPM makes some very nice heavy-duty parts.
Total Performance plans show x .156 wall with a x 20 thread, while Speedway and CCR use 7/8 x .156 with a 5/8 x18 thread. Im not sure what Spirit is using.
Bill
i use 7/8 DOM 3/16 wall tubing. if you are using a ford tie rod end, you will need to open the 1/2 bore to 5/8 for the 11/16x18 or 11/16 for the 3/4x16 for the bushed ends. the 3/16 wall seems to work out just fine. i haven't had any problems with bending.
another reason i like the 7/8 is the 1/2" bore comes in handy when making other pieces where a 1/2" bolt is used.
the purpose of this set of plans is to give anyone a base to start from. please feel free to incorporate any changes you deem necessary to build your chassis to suit your needs. to date there are 12 chassis like this one on the road. the oldest is nearly 14 years old and is running a 396/turbo 400 with no problems.
one last word on the length of the rear hair pins. the longer they are, the more apt they are to bend. if you are building to teds or CCR's lengths, by all means use the 1" tubing. if you are using the steering box mount and the u-joints as a reference for your frame mounts, you can safely use the 7/8"tubing with 3/16" wall.
Ron
another reason i like the 7/8 is the 1/2" bore comes in handy when making other pieces where a 1/2" bolt is used.
the purpose of this set of plans is to give anyone a base to start from. please feel free to incorporate any changes you deem necessary to build your chassis to suit your needs. to date there are 12 chassis like this one on the road. the oldest is nearly 14 years old and is running a 396/turbo 400 with no problems.
one last word on the length of the rear hair pins. the longer they are, the more apt they are to bend. if you are building to teds or CCR's lengths, by all means use the 1" tubing. if you are using the steering box mount and the u-joints as a reference for your frame mounts, you can safely use the 7/8"tubing with 3/16" wall.
Ron
all-world1
Member
A couple of questions on Ron's plan:
1. I assume any bondo required on the frame rails would be applied after the frame is entirely built and just before priming. Correct?
2. Ron, for the front spring perch, let's see if I have this right. The perch brackets are slipped over the front tubular crossmember and then after the x-member is welded to the rails, the spring perch plate is welded to the the brackets after squaring.
1. I assume any bondo required on the frame rails would be applied after the frame is entirely built and just before priming. Correct?
2. Ron, for the front spring perch, let's see if I have this right. The perch brackets are slipped over the front tubular crossmember and then after the x-member is welded to the rails, the spring perch plate is welded to the the brackets after squaring.
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