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The Bucket List

I feel you! I did the same thing and feel the same way! Live and learn, right? I think I have spent more trying not to waste what I have than if I would have started over and used mine for parts, but I fell in love with the old school components, mistake number one... perhaps I will name it " the hard way".
 
Thought I had posted better pics of the inside firewall framing/reinforcement.
The reason I did this in the first place was so that I could weld studs to the bottom of the windshield frame and nut them down from the bottom, along with reinforcing the steering column and custom dash.

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I've been debating doing a frame on my firewall and under my dash like this. This is pretty nice work. I'm kind of excited to see what you dash turns out like.
 
The outer framing of the dash I am redoing in stainless and bolting onto the sub frame because it will be very visible.
It will have a 3/8 carbon fiber composite back panel with an aluminum and stainless inserts covering the bottom sides of the gauges.
To be honest I am looking forward to the outcome myself, I find the dash is something most guys just over look when it comes to aesthetics.
 
Everything seems to be one step forward and two steps back.
Lesson learned.. should have mocked the whole thing up at ride height first and checked the damn tranny mount.
So.. rework on the steering box mount now that the tranny is in the correct position.
 
dwsatt21 The steel framing on the inside has allot of benefits.. all the wiring can be hid behind the aluminum cover that bolts on top, you can use the steel as a grounding point for all the gauges and interior stuff with one ground wire to the frame, the steel frame can support the throttle, windshield (I am planning side mounts as well), steering column, speakers, you name it.
 
Nice work on the frame. I did mine too, but I wish that I would have cut the entire front of the dash out first. It would have been easier and likely more precise. I ended up removing it anyways and built my own to accommodate my choice of gauges and also to help correct the sag in the cowl. I incorporated frame mounts and door post supports into mine, fore and aft of the door openings and reinforced the rockers also. The windshield, doors, and steering column all mount to it. I am very happy with the strength, with both doors cut out, there is zero deflection or movement in the cowl, dash, windshield, or either side, front or rear door posts. It was a lot of work, but well worth it imho. Yours looks nice, I'm sure it will net good results for you as well.
 
dwsatt21 The steel framing on the inside has allot of benefits.. all the wiring can be hid behind the aluminum cover that bolts on top, you can use the steel as a grounding point for all the gauges and interior stuff with one ground wire to the frame, the steel frame can support the throttle, windshield (I am planning side mounts as well), steering column, speakers, you name it.

Agreed. I've got a lot of things attached to my firewall/cowl structure, including the 90° brake set up. It all bolts together so I can get it in and out.

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Nice work on the frame. I did mine too, but I wish that I would have cut the entire front of the dash out first. It would have been easier and likely more precise. I ended up removing it anyways and built my own to accommodate my choice of gauges and also to help correct the sag in the cowl. I incorporated frame mounts and door post supports into mine, fore and aft of the door openings and reinforced the rockers also. The windshield, doors, and steering column all mount to it. I am very happy with the strength, with both doors cut out, there is zero deflection or movement in the cowl, dash, windshield, or either side, front or rear door posts. It was a lot of work, but well worth it imho. Yours looks nice, I'm sure it will net good results for you as well.

Thanks Fletch
 
Been letting the money tree grow since Christmas and I have been rewarded by the Summit gods.
Getting the 327 back from the machine shop tomorrow and hopefully I can send ya some pics this weekend.
 
It has to be bad luck week around here.
Bringing my shiny new 327 home from the machine shop today and the axle broke on my trailer half way home.
Had sit around for 2 hours while the tow guys rounded me up a flat bed.
More $$ out the window.
 
So opinions ?
Going to paint the bucket satin black with some gloss black around edges.
The engine block will be the high heat aluminum POR same as the headers and pipes.
The heads will be the gloss black POR engine enamel.
And almost everything else will be a semi polished aluminum or stainless / brushed look.
So the question is .. do I tape over the brass frost/casting plugs and let them stick out or paint over them when I paint the block.
It might look good with them all off contrast and sticking out.. but it might look like ass as well... not sure ??

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maybe I will give them al little shot of cleat coat before I paint the block just so they don't turn ugly on me.
 
I vote for paint! I mean . . . freeze plugs??? It's not like they're some sexy part or something. Just my 2 cents . . . o_O

PS - I like your color scheme:thumbsup:
 
I actually polished mine and then put clear coat on them. I guess I had too much
time on my hands! :whistling: For the engine block I used POR-15.

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I just paint them to loose them.
 

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