The Bucket List
- Thread starter Intrepid
- Start date
Intrepid
Active Member
Getting ready to tear the chassis down for paint prep.
What I have in the rear end for shocks is a pair that have stud mounts on both ends (see previous pics), markings of A 238 A 12B8I.
The shocks seem to measure out 9.5 inches compressed, 14 inches fully extended.
I have the springs that measure 4.5 inches O.D. and 12.5 inches tall.
I put some pressure on them, I am 200lb, with my full weight they moved maybe 1 inch.
This setup has been sitting for maybe 30 years, half of that on the shocks alone.
The springs maybe compressed over time .. a bit .. not sure.
Plan A - replace the springs and shocks with more or less the same dimensions and mounting for that old style look.
will need some help figuring out the proper shocks and springs to buy.
Plan B - replace the springs with air bags using the mounts that are existing (I am thinking ride tech spring helpers), and make some shock mounts on the aft side of the spring perches.
Still need some help figuring that out.
Any thoughts, help, suggestions appreciated.
What I have in the rear end for shocks is a pair that have stud mounts on both ends (see previous pics), markings of A 238 A 12B8I.
The shocks seem to measure out 9.5 inches compressed, 14 inches fully extended.
I have the springs that measure 4.5 inches O.D. and 12.5 inches tall.
I put some pressure on them, I am 200lb, with my full weight they moved maybe 1 inch.
This setup has been sitting for maybe 30 years, half of that on the shocks alone.
The springs maybe compressed over time .. a bit .. not sure.
Plan A - replace the springs and shocks with more or less the same dimensions and mounting for that old style look.
will need some help figuring out the proper shocks and springs to buy.
Plan B - replace the springs with air bags using the mounts that are existing (I am thinking ride tech spring helpers), and make some shock mounts on the aft side of the spring perches.
Still need some help figuring that out.
Any thoughts, help, suggestions appreciated.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
I'm thinking Plan A. I lie the old, simple way. K.I.S.S. 
choppedtop
Well-Known Member
I used pretty much the same set up as you have, on my coupe years ago. I made the spring length to fit the holders to be a snug fit when the shocks were at the full travel, so the would not come out of their holders if the rear end just happened to travel all the way down on severe road humps. (in Oklahoma that is not uncommon) I did have to change springs a couple of times to get the ride I wanted. If yours compressed 1" with 200 pounds, they may be to soft, and maybe to short. Trial and error maybe your best choice.
I use adjustable Alden coilovers and they have gone 20 years with no problems. I thought of bags when RideTech had a T-bucket kit a few years ago for $1k, but they dropped it. I saw a bucket once that used only Gabriel Highjacker air shocks, the ones that you can pressurize to adjust ride height and firmness: http://www.autozone.com/suspension-...-shock-strut-rear/281345_0_0/?cmpid=PS:3:1:90
Would be fun to try them.
Would be fun to try them.
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
I like the adjustability of air bags, even air assist shocks. I've used both on various trucks, etc over the years. The constant is that they leak. Every single one that I've ever used required attention. If you are ok with that, and don't forget, they are great. The latest ones I used included a on board air system. It was expensive, but seemed to work. Unfortunately one of the bags overinflated and failed when it contacted the inner tire on my dump truck, loaded on a bumpy county road. It now has overload springs.
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
Cool, My headers have baffles in each tube, not sure if I'll retain them yet. Are you going to paint, chrome, wrap?
Intrepid
Active Member
Going to use the POR high temp Aluminum colour paint for now. Going to use the same on the block with black on the heads.
POR-15® High Temp
Eventually I would like to start switching everything over to stainless.
I am just hoping they aren't to loud.
I wanted to post on the other thread and ask how loud the pipes are but I can't find it now.
POR-15® High Temp
Eventually I would like to start switching everything over to stainless.
I am just hoping they aren't to loud.
I wanted to post on the other thread and ask how loud the pipes are but I can't find it now.
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
As long as you point them down and away, and get them past the seats, it shouldn't be too loud. The glass should take the harshness away. I hope the paint works out. I've not had great results with painting headers personally. I haven't tried por 15. It seems ok on cast iron.
Intrepid
Active Member
I started measuring for the steps/heat shields and noticed things were not straight.
My trany mount had all the rubber rotted out of it so I moved it around to straighten the headers and noticed how much of a downward angle my engine was on.
Do you guys set up your chassis at ride height and then set your motor and trany mounts for the carbs at level ? or should the carbs be a bit on the downward slope ?
My trany mount had all the rubber rotted out of it so I moved it around to straighten the headers and noticed how much of a downward angle my engine was on.
Do you guys set up your chassis at ride height and then set your motor and trany mounts for the carbs at level ? or should the carbs be a bit on the downward slope ?
I would set the engine so that the pipes are parallel to the frame. Some set them parallel to the ground which is fine for them, just not my cup of tea. There is no need for the carb to be level, purposely up or purposely down. If it had to be one of those you wouldn't be able to drive up or down hill.
Intrepid
Active Member
Thanks..I like that idea.
I just finished reading another thread over in the engine/chassis section that explained the drive line.
I don't think I can get the pipes up that far without putting to much trany in my cockpit, my chassis is a bit old school and rides high in the arse.
I just don't want them drooping down to far either.
Going to try a compromise and see what I can doo.
I just finished reading another thread over in the engine/chassis section that explained the drive line.
I don't think I can get the pipes up that far without putting to much trany in my cockpit, my chassis is a bit old school and rides high in the arse.
I just don't want them drooping down to far either.
Going to try a compromise and see what I can doo.
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
Actually, the intake manifold under the carb should be level, that's how the engine is designed if you look at it. When I used to put v8's in various things that they weren't designed for, we would set the vehicle as close to ride height as possible and mock the engine up with a torpedo level on the carb mount, with the trans set as close to where it belonged, then measure to fabricate the mounts. There are things to consider, oil drainback and fuel level in the float bowl, and the transmission tailshaft angle in relation to the pinion, and obviously the trans pan should be close to level to allow for proper fluid level. Exhaust can be manipulated to conform, within reason. As long as you can make those work out, you are ok. I've seen many violations to this, and I'm sure there are as many opinions as there are seats, but that's how I learned to do it. Clearly on custom applications there are customizations to compensate for whatever variations are involved. I've seen carb spacers that were milled at an angle to allow proper fuel level because the oil sump wouldn't allow them to properly mount the Cadillac engine in a c10 due to k member interference, and they elected to mount it at an angle rather than modify the pan and, or, k member...it worked. I wouldn't sign my name to it, but he was proud. So whatever works for you, works, lol...
Similar threads
