The excitement is building
- Thread starter Island Girl
- Start date
Island Girl
Well-Known Member
Divi Carina Bay Casino, We opened in March of 2000, so we're getting ready for our 19th anniversary.
I've been there 16 of the 19, and really can't imagine being retired, though I'm certainly in the age range of many who are. I really enjoy our guests and the folks I work with and manage, so it's really a win / win from my perspective . . . .
Island Girl
Well-Known Member
A little Mid-Weekend update . . . .
So last weekend was kind of a blur, and I didn't post any pics as I ran out of light both days before I was ready to knock off for the day.
As most may recall, I tried putting my front drive kit on a couple weeks back, only to find that the alternator mounting/pivot bolt didn't line up with the tapped hole in the head , and that the belt was way too short.
I checked with the makers of the kit, CVF racing, and they attributed it to variations in head manufacture, especially in the BBC. . . . but not really their responsibility to make right . . . (though as I recall, they did say they'd get me a longer belt)
Essentially though, they left me to come up with my own solution . . . .
So that was last Saturday's project, while Sunday was devoted to assembling the el-cheapo Larin METS 1 engine run stand . . .
I didn't have any aluminum plate to solve the alternator mounting issue, but had plenty of acrylic sheet, so I made a mounting plate from that, figuring to use it as a template once the 6061-T6, 5/16" thick aluminum plate I ordered from McMaster arrived.
As luck would have it, my McMaster order arrived at the post office today, earlier than expected, and I just made it by about 10 minutes to pick it up before the noon closing time. (My Summit order had arrived yesterday with a longer belt and some other bits)
Today was spent remaking the acrylic plate with an aluminum one and fitting a longer belt.
Overall it was quite successful . . . looks good, and has all stainless steel hardware.
I did have to rotate the rear half of the alternator housing to get the bat connection to sit out in the open for easier access, and the rear bearing boss just clears the 5/16" plate by about 0.050" or so, so I don't have any bind or interference when adjusting for belt length/wear.
I finished running the fuel system on the motor, all 1/2" line. It's just rubber hose for now, so I can test run. Once it's in the car, I'll convert to 8AN. I'm also still waiting on a couple 1/2" inline fuel filters that should arrive this week so I have a filter in the fuel line and also ordered a roll of 1/2" aluminum fuel line tubing.
I installed the oil pressure sender and temp sender in the motor for the test stand gages, and plan to put the motor in the test stand tomorrow.
I also ordered a set of Patriot sprint headers for the BBC, just plain black ones so I can test run the motor and use them for break in before putting the new AHC coated headers that come with my kit on the motor in the car . . . I'm told that new motors always run notably hotter than broken in ones, and will discolor new headers if used before sufficient break in time is accumulated.
Hopefully . . . they will arrive this week coming, (along with my fuel filter and some other minor bits) and I'll be ready to test run . . . .
Anyway . . . . Here's some new pics:
So last weekend was kind of a blur, and I didn't post any pics as I ran out of light both days before I was ready to knock off for the day.
As most may recall, I tried putting my front drive kit on a couple weeks back, only to find that the alternator mounting/pivot bolt didn't line up with the tapped hole in the head , and that the belt was way too short.
I checked with the makers of the kit, CVF racing, and they attributed it to variations in head manufacture, especially in the BBC. . . . but not really their responsibility to make right . . . (though as I recall, they did say they'd get me a longer belt)
Essentially though, they left me to come up with my own solution . . . .
So that was last Saturday's project, while Sunday was devoted to assembling the el-cheapo Larin METS 1 engine run stand . . .
I didn't have any aluminum plate to solve the alternator mounting issue, but had plenty of acrylic sheet, so I made a mounting plate from that, figuring to use it as a template once the 6061-T6, 5/16" thick aluminum plate I ordered from McMaster arrived.
As luck would have it, my McMaster order arrived at the post office today, earlier than expected, and I just made it by about 10 minutes to pick it up before the noon closing time. (My Summit order had arrived yesterday with a longer belt and some other bits)
Today was spent remaking the acrylic plate with an aluminum one and fitting a longer belt.
Overall it was quite successful . . . looks good, and has all stainless steel hardware.
I did have to rotate the rear half of the alternator housing to get the bat connection to sit out in the open for easier access, and the rear bearing boss just clears the 5/16" plate by about 0.050" or so, so I don't have any bind or interference when adjusting for belt length/wear.
I finished running the fuel system on the motor, all 1/2" line. It's just rubber hose for now, so I can test run. Once it's in the car, I'll convert to 8AN. I'm also still waiting on a couple 1/2" inline fuel filters that should arrive this week so I have a filter in the fuel line and also ordered a roll of 1/2" aluminum fuel line tubing.
I installed the oil pressure sender and temp sender in the motor for the test stand gages, and plan to put the motor in the test stand tomorrow.
I also ordered a set of Patriot sprint headers for the BBC, just plain black ones so I can test run the motor and use them for break in before putting the new AHC coated headers that come with my kit on the motor in the car . . . I'm told that new motors always run notably hotter than broken in ones, and will discolor new headers if used before sufficient break in time is accumulated.
Hopefully . . . they will arrive this week coming, (along with my fuel filter and some other minor bits) and I'll be ready to test run . . . .
Anyway . . . . Here's some new pics:
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Island Girl
Well-Known Member
The test stand wasn't quite as cheesy as I expected, and in fact it seems pretty solid.
As the reviews point out, the directions are useless, and it's best to just follow the picture on the box.
The little gas tank wasn't as big a pain as I was expecting from the reviews, and I managed quite easily without any help.
Overall, I did cut the down the length of the front engine mount eyes, as they were too long for the mounts used in the T, although they may have fit a newer clamshell style mount.
Actual run performance will tell the tale, but so far I'm impressed for what it is versus what it costs.
As the reviews point out, the directions are useless, and it's best to just follow the picture on the box.
The little gas tank wasn't as big a pain as I was expecting from the reviews, and I managed quite easily without any help.
Overall, I did cut the down the length of the front engine mount eyes, as they were too long for the mounts used in the T, although they may have fit a newer clamshell style mount.
Actual run performance will tell the tale, but so far I'm impressed for what it is versus what it costs.
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JetMech727
Active Member
Looking good Island Girl. 
Kinda sucks they left you hanging on the alt bracket but I guess I see their point. Looks like you came up with a good solution though. In the old days being able to fab up your own parts was what hot rodding was all about. It's really easy to get lazy in this day and age of ready to bolt on stuff. I know I've fallen victim to it lately.
Kinda sucks they left you hanging on the alt bracket but I guess I see their point. Looks like you came up with a good solution though. In the old days being able to fab up your own parts was what hot rodding was all about. It's really easy to get lazy in this day and age of ready to bolt on stuff. I know I've fallen victim to it lately.
Island Girl
Well-Known Member
Looking good Island Girl.
Thanks JetMech,
A big part of why I bought the rather costly front accessory drive kit from BluePrint engines was that it was made for the tall deck motors, and I expected it to be a bolt-on deal . . . .
Had I known it would be this much hassle, I would have just selected individual parts and done the fab work myself, either saving money, or getting more for the same money.
It is nice that it's an 8 rib belt though, and at least now, it's good to go.
Hopefully, there won't be tooooo many more "gotcha's", . . . . but no doubt there'll be at least a few.
As an update, the shipping from Miami is about $1700, so well within what I was expecting, especially if they don't have to collect excise tax on it.
Looks like I'll have enough to get the driveshaft ordered as soon as I can mock up the motor in the chassis.
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Island Girl
Well-Known Member
Not many men could figure out how to make a bracket like that and get a longer belt. Most would get peed off and give up or call a friend.
You're doing great and You will be so proud when you're finished. And maybe broke!!
Thanks,
I would hope that anyone, man or woman, that embarked on building a T, would have the skills and tools to fab up this kind of one-off items, but maybe I take too much for granted these days, lol . . .
You would be surprised at those who attempt such projects and never worked on a car before, or even in kit form where everything is just bolt on by following the directions or pictures. most say--CAN YOU HELP ME NOW?
2old2fast
Active Member
A tall deck BBC is .400 higher than a short deck , how far off is your bolt ??? T test is right in that many assemblers would first call the manufacturer and then bash anyone associated with the part to anyone that would listen , then throw the part in the junk and order from someone else , kinda like the guy who throws away all the nails cause the heads on the wrong end !.....
Those nails are for the other side of the house!
Island Girl
Well-Known Member
Not yet . . . .
I just snugged these in as I found the threading in the heads to be rather poor, in that the initial bore may be a bit large, or more likely, the threads just poorly cut, necessitating there be maximal thread depth engagement to allow full torque without pulling out the threads.
I initially ordered 3/4, 7/8, & 1" flat head screws, but it looks like I can get at least another 1/8" of thread engagement, so I ordered some 1.125" and 1.250" screws yesterday.
Since the alternator mounting adapter plate doesn't need to come off to remove the heads, or anything else really . . . . I was thinking about just using blue Loctite rather than anti seize for the flat heads.
As to the degree of mounting bolt misalignment, the first pic shows it pretty well . . . the tapped hole is a bit low and inside, relative to where the bolt wants to be.
From what the tech at CVF told me, they seldom see an issue with the 3 holes in the head being spaced incorrectly relative to each other, but they can be all over the map with regards to other locations on the block. . . . Which then only gets worse if the head was milled or the block was decked . . .
If they just sent a plate with the alternator mounting hole undrilled, and let the end user drill it for their application seems like a win/win to me.
I've never seen a Z'd bolt to correct that much distance.
Some companies just over sell their products as bolt on items, and not knowing what you have, they don't care after they have your money, hence, they don't think you are smart enough to drill holes properly. Not you personally, but all who would buy the plate/bracket without the holes.
2old2fast
Active Member
20 years ago , before I knew " better" , I used , almost exclusively SS fasteners threadedInto stainless , aluminum , and mild steel , I knew about galling stainless to stainless and used never- seize , but used nothing or loctite otherwise. I have disassembled different parts without problems ? IMO....
rbsWELDER
Active Member
Not many men could figure out how to make a bracket like that and get a longer belt. Most would get peed off and give up or call a friend.
You're doing great and You will be so proud when you're finished. And maybe broke!!
I totally agree with what Bruce said! Except he forgot to say your setup is "GORGEOUS"!
