White T II
- Thread starter 409T
- Start date
choppedtop
Well-Known Member
Sailrite® Ultrafeed® LSZ-1 PREMIUM Sewing Machine With WorkerB® Power Pack (110V) $ 1595.00
Sailrite® Standard Fabricator® Sewing Machine Package (110V) $1795.00
Knowing what I know now, I would have purchased the Fabricator to start with. The LSZ-1 will do most everything, but having the extra room under the neck really is nice. Also the Fabricator comes with a table which is nice. The difference between the standard and the deluxe is mainly the table. Standard works fine for me. I did build a table for the LSZ-1 that keeps the deck the same height as the table.
I think freight was about $112.00. Oh ya, I did get the piping foot which is really great.
Sailrite® Standard Fabricator® Sewing Machine Package (110V) $1795.00
Knowing what I know now, I would have purchased the Fabricator to start with. The LSZ-1 will do most everything, but having the extra room under the neck really is nice. Also the Fabricator comes with a table which is nice. The difference between the standard and the deluxe is mainly the table. Standard works fine for me. I did build a table for the LSZ-1 that keeps the deck the same height as the table.
I think freight was about $112.00. Oh ya, I did get the piping foot which is really great.
CheapT
Active Member
I was thinking the good machines were going to be quite a bit more. Since it's my first try I might try going to a goodwill or something and looking for a general purpose machine. (Don't think the wife would let me tinker with hers) Have to remember, I'm CheapT. I want to see how inexpensively I can complete this without it looking like a PO.. I don't want to build a rat rod, would've kept the model A then. Thanks for helping with my learning curve!
MMC757
Member
Back in the 70's, my dad stapled a carpet remnant to some plywood and called it a day.
A slightly better option might be finding a nice set of junkyard seats that will fit. Lots of smaller cars have little to no wear and tear on the rear seats, and you might be able to find a really nice fit.
old round fart
Well-Known Member
I also selected Unisteer rack for my build. I mounted it inside the frame snuggled up to the motor. I had plenty of room for a bellcrank to change front /rear movement to side/side so I used it!
The inside dimension, at the center front to back is 21". The inside width is 38".
I like it. Not too much pressure on the bell crank pivot?
LongJohn
Active Member
I don’t think so. I plan to gusset the sides when I final weld the chassis. I used the same setup on my original car and it was 1”x1/4” flat bar between the rails (they were only about 4” wide and a short bar to the front crossmember. Had a 5/8” pivot bolt with a thrust washer holding it together. Never a problem for close to 100,000 miles in 9 years.
ORF (I'm old and resist change), my bed is also 21" long at the centerline. I have the radiator and fuel tank in it.
old round fart
Well-Known Member
I know your car is configured like mine but I’m trying to use off the shelf parts. I plan on using Holley Sniper EFI and their universal fuel tank is 17” front to rear. Haven’t really set up the frame from the body back (a little late I admit) as I have changed my design a little. I have narrowed my axle housing 4 1/8” to center the pinion and have not positioned it under the frame yet to determine placement. I will be doing that in the next day or two. That will tell me if I will need a custom tank.
old round fart
Well-Known Member
I will report. Now with 2 names I can talk to myself! That way I can always hear what I want to hear.
Don't all Okies talk to themselves?
Indycars
Well-Known Member
Just the smart one !
old round fart
Well-Known Member
So I said to myself “myself?” And myself said “huh?” And then I said ……….
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