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broken clevis

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This. Or a long bolt through bat wing and clevis with shock on the outside.
You may have to adjust the upper mount.

That is what I was thinking. Not a hard fix just not an easy fix. lol
 
I ended up using the L shaped shackle plates on mine. I had to modify them to work, but they do work well.




I definitely would not use the welded pieces. Have it made in one piece for safety. There can be too much downward stress and cause the bracket to break.
 
I definitely would not use the welded pieces. Have it made in one piece for safety. There can be too much downward stress and cause the bracket to break.
Why? The upper shock mounts are welded and that's acceptable...and they are rigid. These plates move and rotate as the suspension goes up and down. I would think that would be less stress. The shackle itself is still held together with the original shackle plate. The part that's welded on is the part that the shock bolts to. So I don't really see any difference between welding this or welding a shock mount onto a frame or somewhere else. That's not to say that having one made out of one piece isnt better, if nothing else just for a cleaner look, but I don't think there is anything structurally wrong with this. Just my opinion
 
I probably would make that out of 1 piece ,however I see no problem w/ it being welded , there's far more high-stress pieces welded on the car besides that !!
dave
 
I probably would make that out of 1 piece ,however I see no problem w/ it being welded , there's far more high-stress pieces welded on the car besides that !!
dave
If it's for yourself that's one thing. If you are doing it for a customer then that can sure expose you to a lot of liability. Just something to think about.
 
This has definitely turned out to be more of a PITA than expected. First I ordered the wrong width which was my mistake. Most of the ones available are 5/8" thread but the TP ones are only 1/2". The original TP clevis is longer than what is available as well. I talked to Jim at Wintec and he was the one that informed me about the length but Iwas thinking maybe the threads were a bit shorter and it would be alright. Unfortunately the clevis body is 1" shorter and barely makes it to the wishbone.

IIRC when I first bought the car the clevis' were screwed in all the way with no jam nuts installed. I could not get any adjustment for the caster so I shortened the wishbones a smidge. Now it has come back to bite me in the butt. lol.



If I have to buy new longer parts then I am going to switch to a 4 bar setup. I just need to find one for a round axle tbucket. I need to change my front shock mounts as well so it is just as good a time as any to just change everything at once.
 
Jay
I don't know if you looked at McMaster Carr. They have one listed that appears to be very close. It has a 7/16" pin hole though. You could drill the plate out for the larger pin.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#rod-ends/=x41z36

The link just gets you in the ball park, but they list male shank clevis' down the page.

Just a thought.

Mike
 
If you need some different bat wings for your axle to convert to a 4 bar, let me know. I have been making a lot of 4 bar front axles and have several different bat wings.

Ron do you have the frame bracket and ends to do a 4 bar?
 
A bit of an off question Ron but do you have a store there at your shop? I could have drove right by there Thursday on my way home for WV but I know a lot of small business's don't always allow people to stop by.
 
Ron@RPM,
You mentioned that if someone was converting to a 4-bar setup thet there could be a need for different batwing brackets on the front axle. I was thinking of changing from the hairpin setup on my front axle to a 4-bar. I was thinking that my current front axle batwings would work just fine. Am I thinking wrong? What might be the difference?

Thanks,

Bill
 
I have a four bar setup and I did not use different bat wings. I have high strength heims joints and they seem to be fine so far.
 

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