Motor rebuild questions.

[oino]

Going to start a new motor for my T.
Some what of a budget motor. I don't have a lot of money to spend.

Any advice is greatly apprecited.

Getting a 1992 chevy 350 short block w/stock roller cam in it.
Going to have motor cleaned and bored .30 over.
At that time I'll have the block and crank checked.
Getting a rebuild kit from summit.
Dish or Flat pistions?
Cam - compcam. I'm up in a air on which one to get.
Current Transmission is a 700r4 with I think a 1800 stall. Give me some time to figure that out.
Heads -
ProMaxx Performance#723-2169
185cc Aluminum Cylinder Heads

• Small Block Chevy

• 2.02''/1.60'' Valves

• 185cc Intake Runner

• 64cc Combustion Chamber

• Straight Plug

 

[fletcherson]

Going to start a new motor for my T.
Some what of a budget motor. I don't have a lot of money to spend.

Any advice is greatly apprecited.

Getting a 1992 chevy 350 short block w/stock roller cam in it.
Going to have motor cleaned and bored .30 over.
At that time I'll have the block and crank checked.
Getting a rebuild kit from summit.
Dish or Flat pistions?
Cam - compcam. I'm up in a air on which one to get.
Current Transmission is a 700r4 with I think a 1800 stall. Give me some time to figure that out.
Heads -
ProMaxx Performance#723-2169
185cc Aluminum Cylinder Heads

• Small Block Chevy

• 2.02''/1.60'' Valves

• 185cc Intake Runner

• 64cc Combustion Chamber

• Straight Plug

There are a lot of variables involved here. You need to know what the rpm range is that the engine will be expected to perform in based on tire size, rearend gear, transmission gearing, optimum mph, and where you want the power to be pronounced. All of those things should be considered before you start buying parts. The cam, valve train, intake, and torque converter are critical decisions here, the pistons will be more dependent on those choices, based on desired compression ratio, rpm, and if it will be boosted or not. Also consider fuel quality, do you want it to run on pump gas? I don't know how much exposure you have to this stuff, but I would reccomend looking at some various manufacturers web sites to give you some more info. Lunati, comp, crane, etc... Have tech info that will help. There are programs that can help to match components, look at edelbrocks kits that provide all of the components for advertised uses for an idea of how to figure this out. Be realistic about how you want to use the car, how you plan on driving it, etc... Over building it will make it much less enjoyable, there's not much weight, so a little will go a long way. The converter is important too, check out the tech info from the guys that make them, TCI, B&M, etc... You are smart to figure this out first, then build it to do what you want, sort of like a house or anything else. The transmission gearing can be found in service manuals, etc...

 

[fletcherson]

There are a lot of variables involved here. You need to know what the rpm range is that the engine will be expected to perform in based on tire size, rearend gear, transmission gearing, optimum mph, and where you want the power to be pronounced. All of those things should be considered before you start buying parts. The cam, valve train, intake, and torque converter are critical decisions here, the pistons will be more dependent on those choices, based on desired compression ratio, rpm, and if it will be boosted or not. Also consider fuel quality, do you want it to run on pump gas? I don't know how much exposure you have to this stuff, but I would reccomend looking at some various manufacturers web sites to give you some more info. Lunati, comp, crane, etc... Have tech info that will help. There are programs that can help to match components, look at edelbrocks kits that provide all of the components for advertised uses for an idea of how to figure this out. Be realistic about how you want to use the car, how you plan on driving it, etc... Over building it will make it much less enjoyable, there's not much weight, so a little will go a long way. The converter is important too, check out the tech info from the guys that make them, TCI, B&M, etc... You are smart to figure this out first, then build it to do what you want, sort of like a house or anything else. The transmission gearing can be found in service manuals, etc...

Ps: the roller cam will be a costly part. Sometimes, the factory rollers are reusable, they don't wear the lobes like the flat tappet cams. I don't know what the engine came from, if it was fuel injected, you should change the cam if you plan on carburation anyways. Just thinking out loud based on your budget statement.

 

[oino]

WOW. Lots to take in.. Not trying to start a endless thread. I'm just looking for a few pointers. Basically want a stock motor with a few upgrades and new parts.
Trans gearing is stock.
3.54 gears in the rear.
Damn can't remember other stuff off hand. I have it all at home.
I'm not looking to race. Just go out for a drive.
I figured that about the factory rollers. My neighbor had an extra set of new rollers and gave them to me.
I'll call compcams later on today.

 

[fletcherson]

If you want a basically stock, but strong motor, look into the edelbrock street engine kits for an idea of what components they use as a guideline. They already done the math and have the advertised hp, rpm stuff. If you stay with a basically stock engine, maybe a rv type cam or something mild, it will simplify your build for sure. Again, the rpm range is a big deal here so the engine will be strong, and efficient at the proper range, where you will need it. If money is a big deal, try to match as many stock components as possible, but make sure that's what you want. Things like valve springs etc should definitely be replaced and matched to the other components. The reason I sugested looking at edelbrock is that they offer kits that simplify this chore. Depending on what the transmission came from, you may be able to use the stock converter, but I gave the info so you would understand why it is important to match the components. When I was starting out in hot rods with no cash and less experience, I made ton of mistakes, installing mis matched stuff because I didn't understand all of it. If you go the route we just covered, basic stock replacement cast or hyper flat top Pistons skould be fine, but for your benefit, look into the tech sites so you end up with what you want and will enjoy.

 

[old round fart]

You may try the motor before you rebuild. I put a timing chain and pan gasket in a junk yard motor and drove it for 4 years. Total cost about $250.00.

 

[fletcherson]

You may try the motor before you rebuild. I put a timing chain and pan gasket in a junk yard motor and drove it for 4 years. Total cost about $250.00.

Good suggestion, a rattle can rebuild, lol. Sometimes those are more than enough. The issue is if it is a fuel injected engine, and he runs a carb, he could have timing issues, from past similar experience. That's a weekend upgrade down the road though... A stock healthy sbc will be plenty strong in a bucket, they were good in a 4000 pound truck.

 

[oino]

You may try the motor before you rebuild. I put a timing chain and pan gasket in a junk yard motor and drove it for 4 years. Total cost about $250.00.

That's a good idea.

I'm getting a short block. I'll have to get heads and an intake.

 

[oino]

Torque converter is 1600-1700 stall.

 

[smokeyco75]

Regardless of what you decide on the rest of the engine I would go with dish pistons with 64cc heads if you plan on using pump gas. It will greatly reduce the potential of detonation due to higher compression ratio. With you wanting a mild motor I would also run an rv type cam with an advertised duration of no greater than 280 degrees. Lobe separation around 114 degrees makes for a well mannered idle. top it off with a dual plane intake and a 600 cfm carb. for good off idle throttle response. You should have plenty of pucker factor in the go pedal lol.

 

[fletcherson]

That's a good idea.

I'm getting a short block. I'll have to get heads and an intake.

Pull the pan, check the bearings, if ok, throw a oil pump and gasket kit in it and see what it will do. I only say replace the oil pump because it's an easy inexpensive issue at that point and good insurance. You could get a cam, head, intake, carb set like a performer rpm or the like and have a decent little motor for not a lot of cash. If it don't need rebuilt, freshen and go. You will need a decent ignition too, you will have to lay out a fair amount anyways, without machine shop and internal parts. A good point was made about compression ratio with the close chamber heads, keep it down around 9-1 or so, you can get away with a little more with aluminum heads, but not necessary for what you want.

 

[Screaming Metal]

Get yourself a good, stock shortblock. Get yourself some good stock heads, rebuilt. Go with the dualplane intake and a aftermarket carb (small will do nicely). Port match things....
The Sale items from Summit or Jegs would do nicely.
You can have a nice running little motor for about $5oo-600 range if you shop around....
Cam, go with a mild rv cam....
If your gonna rev it every-once-in-a-while, you'll be OK.
If your gonna romp on it often, pin the studs in the heads

Hell, theres nothing wrong with putting a stock smallblock in a T. Theres alot less weight than a normal car, so it'll feel that much more powerful. Put a stock smallblock in a sprint car chassis, and it'll rip....your not pushing any weight....

 

[SRM1952]

This engine choice thing a very personal thing. What do you want ,just a cruiser very mild and tame, smooth idle , regular gas the 87 stuff , a little racy not so smooth idle , maybe aluminum heads cam maybe 220 degree duration at .050 lift this is like the old 350 350 hp cam and a little more compression. Aluminum heads allow a little more compression at 10 -1 is good ,with premium fuel and todays aluminum head flow better than the old hi po heads and more repairable and look great too. If you are looking for more it is all out there also.
Most of the t-bucket guy on this site seem to like looser converters ,for drivability and that lets you run a little more cam in these very light cars. That 770r4 has very low 1st gear about 3.06 but has overdrive , this lets you run low gears 4.10-1 and still cruise at 65 mph at about 2200 rpm. It should also have
a lockup converter to stop slippage in high gear.
Also if your roller lifter are in good condition they can be run on new cams, save some money .Rollers have less friction don't need special oil and have a broader power range. you can make a very nice street motor. Those Promaxx heads have had some good press.

The engine is heart of the and the cam is the heart of the engine . You have a nice start .On a T bucket the engine is theme maker .Think out what you want for the heart of your car . I'm a racer at heart but there a lot of different hearts. Steve

 

[Golly]

All this info is pretty much on the mark I'm thinkin' for what you want. Personally I would put something a little larger than an "RV" cam and definetly a higher stall converter. As for the overdrive trans, just be carefull, as it's all sounds good with a 4.11 gear and overdrive, but the driveshaft speed goes thru the roof! Can give you harmonics grief.
A built 200/4R is another alternative , has ratios very similar to a T350 , but a taller OD , .65 or something like that, and physically smaller than a 700 R4

 

[ellis8500]

Like the guys have said, these light weight cars do not need a lot of HP to go fast. I built a cruiser; stock Ford 302 with 1,200-4,500 RPM cam range. 500 CFM carb. Ford AOD tranny with shift kit, higher than stock stall speed converter and 3.55 diff. Stock E7TE heads. Tranny only goes to first if I put it there so normally starts in 2nd gear and it scoots. 70 mph at about 2200 rpm. Here's a spread sheet that you might like.

 

[Screaming Metal]

If you want a good budget motor, stay away from alum. heads, they'll act as heat sinks and you need heat in there for the motor to heat up and run.... get a bunch of mild parts and build a mild motor....and you can't go wrong.

Chevy was 'cookin' back in the 60's, you could purchase a full tilt racing motor over the counter from their parts dept. And they sold the parts so that you could build one, if thats what was wanted.
They had smog motors that run from 260 horses back in the 70's/80's, to 135 horses....one of the sweetest motors they built was the 300 horse 350. Mild parts, but today that motor would likely put out 225 to 275, because of fuel quality and compression having to be backed down....

 

[roadmonster]

Stick with a mild cam and build for low-end torque. Use an almost-stock converter with 2100-2300 or so stall. My cam and manifold produce power from 800-4800 so you are ALWAYS in the powerband. This setup also has great vacuum signal so your carb, transmission, and vac advance will work great together. It will launch like a rocket (wheelspin optional), and easily chirp 2nd with no fuss at all. A mild cam will also give you a very sweet exhaust note.

 

[Mike]

I completely agree with @Screaming Metal on cylinder head material. Aluminum is great for race cars, because when you blow stuff up, it is easy to repair. Bear in mind an engine is naught but a heat pump. You are trying to take cool, dense air, mix it with as little fuel as possible, in an effort to generate as much heat as possible. And cast iron will do a much better job of doing that.

I would also look at heads with smaller runners and smaller valves. It will only help improve off-idle throttle response. Sure, a big runner and a big valve really start to shine at 6,000 RPM, but here is where you have to be honest with yourself by asking, how many times will this motor spin up that high?

And don't start deciding what torque converter you are going to use, because your camshaft, intake manifold, and gear ratios are going to determine that for you. Keep the cart behind the horse, aye?

Sit down and decide exactly how you want to drive this car. Then be realistic and determine the RPM range where the motor is going to spend the majority of its time. Use that RPM range to determine what kind of parts you should buy. Make the motor happy in the RPM range it will be running, and the motor will make you happy.

 

[one finger john]

MIKKKEEE ...... He's doing it AGAIN !!!!!

 

[oino]

MIKKKEEE ...... He's doing it AGAIN !!!!!

I'm not doing anything. I haven't been here in few days. Got more replies then I expected.

Thank you for all the replies.
I got a block yesterday. The couple of blocks that were in the 1992's were crap.
I got one out of a 1988 suburban. It has a flat tapped cam but with provisions for a roller cam.
I got the spider thing from a another motor.

I'll post pics tonight and see about getting the pan off.