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Motor rebuild questions.

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Just my thought here....you need to pick up a cheap running motor, from a salvage yard for a few hundred. Clean it up and run it. OR, Get that used motor, or a good rebuildable core and have a good shop rebuild it, put your dressup parts on it.
OR, let them rebuild that motor you just bought, buy a set of heads from them, and put your dressup goodies on it. Alot of places will have a motor stand where they can run it in, and adjust it out. They'll be happy to mount the intake, carb your using, when they're ordering parts for the rebuild, you can purchase the RV cam....they can run them it in on the motor stand and tune it out, for a small fee.. Then, all you have to do is bolt it in.

That would be the simplist, easiest thing for someone not able to rebuild a motor themselves. After the last motor, and all that was involved. Remember the intake leak? Get yourself a running motor, and install it. Yes, it will cost you more, but, it'll be done right. New rebuilt motors have a nice warranty along with them, probably longer than state you'll want to keep your T is in now. One day you'll probably want to redo the body, suspension, paint, and that motor will still be trucking right along....

That was my last motor. I got it used in Cali. when I first built the car and used it. Nothing but issues. Then I paid a lot of money and it rebuilt by a machine shop when I moved to Nebraska and after that nothing but problem. Then all my changes to it and still nothing but problems.
That motor will look good in the corner of my garage as a display. :)

I'm going to have the machine shop here do most of the hard work. I'll just slide on the new parts and be done.
I can do that.

And I see that promaxx make a head same specs as the others but the a 72cc Combustion Chamber.
I get where your comming from on getting cast stock heads. But them aluminium ones look good. :)
 
Couple more posts there after before I posted.
I'll ask the machine shop. There already told me that the rebuild kit would be more then if I get the $280 kit from summit.
They said that's basically the kit they get (brands different) and mark it up.

They said after they clean and check the block. They'll call me so I can order the kit from summit. Then just bring the parts to them. Save me the headache.
:)
 
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If you're just looking for a basic rebuild kit , try Northern Auto , they used to have one for $159 , used 1 of those in my old work truck , think it has about 80K miles since ..
dave
 
Went by the machine shop to get some pricing.
Bore $140
Clean $70
Decked $125
OK, I'm not trying to single anyone out, here, but this is the same kind of silly nonsense that goes on from thread to thread. And it seems nobody ever wants to listen. The tallest building in town is only 10 stories, but this kind of stuff makes me want to go fling myself off the top.

Are you rebuilding this engine, or are you just throwing a set of rings and bearings in it? Huh? Are you aware there is even a difference? Hello???

How much are they going to charge you to check main saddle alignment, and align hone the block, if necessary? Because if the mains are not true, how are you ever going to end up with square decks and perpendicular, parallel cylinder bores?

If they are going to bore it for a buck-forty, what are they going to charge you to finish hone it?

What are they going to charge you to knock cam bearings back into the block? They are going to remove them prior to cleaning the block, aye?

When a block arrives at a machine shop, step number one should be to knock the cam bearings and freeze plugs out of it. Then all the threaded plugs need to come out.

The block then needs to be cleaned, by whatever method (dipping, jet-spraying, baking/tumbling, etc.)

Once the block is clean, the decks and mains should be checked for cracks. The bores then need to be inspected for cracks. If the bloody thing is cracked, why would you ever want to invest more money into it?

The block then needs to be checked for main saddle alignment, and for main bore sizing. If you are going to properly deck and bore a block, you are always locating off the mains, so if they are not right, then nothing will be right. It would be like trying to build a house on foundation that is not flat.

The block should then be decked, and again (and again, and again, and again, and again), a good shop will deck the block so the decks are square to the mains.

The block should then be bored (are you listening) in a fixture that will locate off the mains.

The block should then be honed, and I'm not talking about using a dingleberry on it.

Then the cam bearings and freeze plugs need to be replaced.

Average prices in this area, would have you spending around $400 for the above services, plus another $150, if the block needs to be align honed.

At that point, you have not touched the crank, you have not touched the rods, you have not touched the cylinder heads, etc. If you are using new parts, you still have rod bores to verify for sizing and concentricity, you have piston pins to verify, piston pin holes to verify, crank journals to verify for size and concentricity, oil clearances to check, ring end gaps to check, deck heights to check, and all you've done is get the short block ready to assemble. You still need to check oil pump clearances, you still need to verify cam timing, you still need to verify crankshaft end play, you still need to verify camshaft end play, you still need to make sure every last part is cleaner than clean, etc.

If you're going to rebuild an engine, it is going to require a lot of checking, a lot of machine work, a lot more checking, and a lot of money. Of course, if you are going to take the block to a quarter car wash, hose it off, and throw in a new set of aluminum-backed bearings, run a dingleberry through it, and use some .010 oversized rings, then you are going to get off pretty cheap, But that is not rebuilding the engine, now is it?

Rebuilding an engine is about making triple-sure that everything is right. It has naught to do with price tags. If you are trying to build an engine via the numbers on the price tags, you are doing it wrong. Make everything right and it will cost what it costs. If you have to worry about what it costs, hear me very carefully - you cannot afford to do it, because you are not going to do it right. You are going to cut corners, in order to save 62¢. And if you are trying to pinch pennies, the dollars will slip right through your hands, because you will end up having to do the job a second time. And trust me, I've heard all of the excuses in the book for doing it a second time, and it is never the fault of the guy in the mirror, the guy who was pinching pennies, it is always everyone else's fault.

If you're going to do it, do it right. If you're not going to do it right, then you are involved in the wrong hobby. Maybe that is going to give some people a boo-boo lip, but the truth does hurt, almost every time.

Believe me, if there is one forum that I could delete in a New York minute, and never think about it again, it would be this Engines forum. I am sick to death of all the baby chick sounds coming from this one. Cheap, cheap, cheap. :mad: If you want advice on how to do something, then expect to receive advice on how to do it the right way. If you are giving someone advice, be damn sure you are giving them advice on how to do things the right way. Because I am here to tell you, some of this stuff (<--- yes, I was trying to be nice) is beyond belief, and we're going to be reining a lot of it in. Fully expect to find a lot more locked threads in this forum. Fact.

Yes, that is my patience, worn and stretched to the breaking point.
 
Screaming Metal said it best. Different builders build different engines differently. I said the same thing you did. I bought a running engine and was going to use it the way it was. I bought a supposedly usable transmission and after I saw the stuff in the fluid decided to rebuild it. I don't think it would have run another 5000 miles. After that I decided to take the motor apart for inspection. I should have left it alone. I now have about 2 grand into it and it will probably be nothing but problems. It needed to be rebuilt but it would have lasted another 25000 miles. Probably 5 years before it had to be rebuilt. It all depends on what you want to do. You want to drive it or work on it? A stock motor will make you happy. A race engine will make you happy just not as soon. Your choice. Good luck.
 
That's telling it like it is. Do it right or don't do it at all.

OK, I'm not trying to single anyone out, here, but this is the same kind of silly nonsense that goes on from thread to thread. And it seems nobody ever wants to listen. The tallest building in town is only 10 stories, but this kind of stuff makes me want to go fling myself off the top.

Are you rebuilding this engine, or are you just throwing a set of rings and bearings in it? Huh? Are you aware there is even a difference? Hello???

How much are they going to charge you to check main saddle alignment, and align hone the block, if necessary? Because if the mains are not true, how are you ever going to end up with square decks and perpendicular, parallel cylinder bores?

If they are going to bore it for a buck-forty, what are they going to charge you to finish hone it?

What are they going to charge you to knock cam bearings back into the block? They are going to remove them prior to cleaning the block, aye?

When a block arrives at a machine shop, step number one should be to knock the cam bearings and freeze plugs out of it. Then all the threaded plugs need to come out.

The block then needs to be cleaned, by whatever method (dipping, jet-spraying, baking/tumbling, etc.)

Once the block is clean, the decks and mains should be checked for cracks. The bores then need to be inspected for cracks. If the bloody thing is cracked, why would you ever want to invest more money into it?

The block then needs to be checked for main saddle alignment, and for main bore sizing. If you are going to properly deck and bore a block, you are always locating off the mains, so if they are not right, then nothing will be right. It would be like trying to build a house on foundation that is not flat.

The block should then be decked, and again (and again, and again, and again, and again), a good shop will deck the block so the decks are square to the mains.

The block should then be bored (are you listening) in a fixture that will locate off the mains.

The block should then be honed, and I'm not talking about using a dingleberry on it.

Then the cam bearings and freeze plugs need to be replaced.

Average prices in this area, would have you spending around $400 for the above services, plus another $150, if the block needs to be align honed.

At that point, you have not touched the crank, you have not touched the rods, you have not touched the cylinder heads, etc. If you are using new parts, you still have rod bores to verify for sizing and concentricity, you have piston pins to verify, piston pin holes to verify, crank journals to verify for size and concentricity, oil clearances to check, ring end gaps to check, deck heights to check, and all you've done is get the short block ready to assemble. You still need to check oil pump clearances, you still need to verify cam timing, you still need to verify crankshaft end play, you still need to verify camshaft end play, you still need to make sure every last part is cleaner than clean, etc.

If you're going to rebuild an engine, it is going to require a lot of checking, a lot of machine work, a lot more checking, and a lot of money. Of course, if you are going to take the block to a quarter car wash, hose it off, and throw in a new set of aluminum-backed bearings, run a dingleberry through it, and use some .010 oversized rings, then you are going to get off pretty cheap, But that is not rebuilding the engine, now is it?

Rebuilding an engine is about making triple-sure that everything is right. It has naught to do with price tags. If you are trying to build an engine via the numbers on the price tags, you are doing it wrong. Make everything right and it will cost what it costs. If you have to worry about what it costs, hear me very carefully - you cannot afford to do it, because you are not going to do it right. You are going to cut corners, in order to save 62¢. And if you are trying to pinch pennies, the dollars will slip right through your hands, because you will end up having to do the job a second time. And trust me, I've heard all of the excuses in the book for doing it a second time, and it is never the fault of the guy in the mirror, the guy who was pinching pennies, it is always everyone else's fault.

If you're going to do it, do it right. If you're not going to do it right, then you are involved in the wrong hobby. Maybe that is going to give some people a boo-boo lip, but the truth does hurt, almost every time.

Believe me, if there is one forum that I could delete in a New York minute, and never think about it again, it would be this Engines forum. I am sick to death of all the baby chick sounds coming from this one. Cheap, cheap, cheap. :mad: If you want advice on how to do something, then expect to receive advice on how to do it the right way. If you are giving someone advice, be damn sure you are giving them advice on how to do things the right way. Because I am here to tell you, some of this stuff (<--- yes, I was trying to be nice) is beyond belief, and we're going to be reining a lot of it in. Fully expect to find a lot more locked threads in this forum. Fact.

Yes, that is my patience, worn and stretched to the breaking point.
 
@Mike , Those are the basic prices they gave me. If it needs more, then it will cost more.
I'm sure they are a good machine shop and will fix everything that needs to be fixed with the blocks.

I'm here for advice and opinion.
I've read everything that was posted. Everyone posts a different opinion. When I respond to one opinion and say that sound good I'll do/try it that way. Everyone else freaks out says it's wrong and I'm not doing it right and why didn't I ready what was said. Check this, Check that. Why do we need this long thread. Stop doing this.

I'm done.
Sorry I ever asked for anything, or tried to learn anything from you guys.
I guess I'm not ask perfect as all of you. Guess you need to be a top engine builder and Own a T-bucket of show car quality to be here. Know everything.
Or be here and never post.

I'll just figure it out on my own...
 
Going to start a new motor for my T.
Some what of a budget motor. I don't have a lot of money to spend.

Getting back to the point, there's nothing wrong with a budget motor. My "temporary" budget motor has lasted many thousands of miles with NO problems and no need to replace it with a gold-plated engineering marvel. If I had a $4000 crate motor it would sit in the crate until this one wears out, which at this rate will be never. '72 C30 block (same as 'Vette), Northern Parts rebuild 10 years ago. Good oil pressure, no leaks, great power and sounds great. '65 Camel Hump heads with .171 Fel-Pro gaskets to keep the compression down. Never messed with the rotating assembly through cam, head, and intake changes.

There is no reason you and your buddies can't built a good cheap 350 in your garage that will last for years. Part of the appeal of hot rodding is owner-engineering instead of just writing big checks.

When a chrome-and-billet-laden T parks next to me at a cruise-in, guess who gets the most attention. The old, owner-built, cleverly-engineered Frankenstein full of cheap, common parts.

Don't give up. Not everyone here is a snob. Some people just don't get hot rodding.
 
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