tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Don't have to roll it, when done my way. Front to rear track wouldn't make a diffence, if it does, something else is wrong.
New member of the "death wobble" club
- Thread starter Track T-4
- Start date
roadmonster
Member
A car that runs well with toe-in will not just suddenly need toe-out to prevent wobble. A wobble that starts in one wheel is almost certainly a grabby brake. Make sure your shoes are retracting properly before changing a known good setup.
Sounds like you guys are concerned with getting the dimension just right, that would be a concern if that amount of toe in or out was specified somewhere and you knew it would fix things. The trick will be to find what each car likes, that takes trial and error. I agree a tape measure and a helper go a long way. Find the best location you can duplicate on the front and rear of the tire and simply adjust till you think you have the toe in or toe out you are trying for...then just drive the car, carry a couple wrenches, adjust and try again..maybe one rotation at a time (most tie rods have left and right threads so nothing needs to be removed, just loosen the jam nuts, rotate and retighten).
Also, we would have already checked the chassis dimensioning, all rod ends, bearings, binding and wheel balancing before we would be doing this testing. I think he may be able to skip that because he has not changed any bar lengths except for the tie rod itself.
Also, we would have already checked the chassis dimensioning, all rod ends, bearings, binding and wheel balancing before we would be doing this testing. I think he may be able to skip that because he has not changed any bar lengths except for the tie rod itself.
It's fixed! After thinking about it last night I decided to try something slightly different. I know some folks have their favorite method for checking alignment but the string method works for me. This time I tied a string on each spindle, ran it around the back of the tire, then about 6 feet out in front and just touching both edges of the tire. Then anchored the strings so they were tight and across the center of the wheel. Wow! I had alot of toe-in! Next I started adjusting the tie rod (and moving the anchored strings accordingly) until the distance between the two strings right in front of the tire was equal to the distance between the strings 6 feet out. The reason I wanted to do this was to set a starting point as close to zero toe-in as I could before making minor toe-in adjustments and doing road tests. When I had what I thought was zero toe-in we hit the road - varying speed, bumps, curves and anything that might make it happen again - NO DEATH WOBBLE! I couldn't believe we hit it right the first time. Is it perfect? Maybe not but it sure must be close and it drives like it used to. Thanks to all for your thoughts and suggestions...time to go driving again. 
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
Congrats! I've read how to do the string method and could never figure it out. Probably thinking about it too much. So, I found my method. These are fairly simple cars, yet there seems to be a million ways to work on them. I'm glad you found a way that works for you.
Happy motoring!
Happy motoring!
23dragster
New Member
I've always had mine toed out by about 1/32" "under rolling load" using the "front to back" method by measuring the tire distance apart on the front and rear of each tire. Glad you got it fixed! Happy driving!
JeffK
Member
Total toe for both tires...... 1/8" each tire would be 1/4" total toe in
old round fart
Well-Known Member
measured from tire to tire so 1/8" toe in is from tire to tire not 1/8" from tire to center line of car.
JeffK
Member
In theory lol, measure the backs also just to be sure.
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