Under floor clutch and brake petals

[fletcherson]

Has anyone tried to install the underfloor hydraulic clutch and brake assembly? I am looking at some from engineered components inc, ECI, that use a bell crank setup so the clutch and master cylinders are inline, making the unit narrow, 7" (non power) per the gentleman I spoke with. It looks to be a pretty slick setup and allows the petals to be installed from the front as opposed to the side, so side clearance is not an issue. Trying to get as much leg room as possible in this thing. Inches are like gold, lol.

 

[2old2fast]

W/O a pic or link to what you're talking about , I have no way of knowing what you're thinking of using...I will say that setting up a mech. clutch linkage is pretty simple & foolproof... BTW , they're peDals , peTals are on flowers LOL
dave

 

[fletcherson]

W/O a pic or link to what you're talking about , I have no way of knowing what you're thinking of using...I will say that setting up a mech. clutch linkage is pretty simple & foolproof... BTW , they're peDals , peTals are on flowers LOL
dave

Thanks for your wisdom! Now I won't crush any flowers when shifting...lol. If I spent as much time working on the T as I do fighting with auto correct, etc, I would be working on a new project.... I do have mechanical linkage and peDals now, but they need to be moved and the master cylinder needs to be updated to add front brakes. The builder attached them to the crossmember, so they are too far back for me. The clutch fork and linkage takes up some space that I could use for other uses. I was just looking at options and wondered if anyone had used them. I am sure I can redesign the mount and move my existing pedals, but the hydro clutch, if I used a hydro throw out bearing, would save some space. If anyone is interested in seeing what I am talking about, the web site is: ecihotrodbrakes.com, I think. I am in no way affiliated with or advertising for them, just considering their product. I don't have any pictures.

 

[2old2fast]

Just bustin' your chops ..... looked at the eci site , nice looking unit ...potential problems are whether or not you have enough front to rear space, the other is those pedal arm shapes take up alot of space & they're designed for an angled toe board... possible to use elements of the design in a 1-off to fit the T confines better..
dave

 

[fletcherson]

Yea, I just got the dimensions from them today and haven't had a chance to go to the shop and scratch my head... I think the cross member may inhibit it's use. Whoever built this thing used the crossmember for the pedals, brake system, lift bars, and trans mount. Pretty slick, but very limiting as far as adapting it. It was a trdiditional type cab steer and I cannot drive it, I just don't fit. That's why I am moving the steering column and pedals. I think I have a resolve for the shifter, I canibolized a console shifter and can incorporate it with the original shifter to move the stick over enough to get some leg room. I will likely be welding up a new mount for the existing pedals. The only place that makes sense is under, I have no room on the firewall and want to keep it clean. I believe it would be simpler to start over from scratch and actually design one to fit, but I do like the old school parts and feel of it, so I will make do.

 

[T-Test]

This is one I built to go in one of my bucket builds. Had to bend pedals for alighnment after I put the body on to get enough room for feet and coloum to work.

 

[T-Test]

 

[T-Test]

 

[T-Test]

 

[T-Test]

Just an alternative if you have a hood or make things simpler for underneath.

 

[fletcherson]

Thanks! Good info. Seeing what other guys do really helps me sort it out, especially since I have been away from doing stuff like this for a while. The thing I really miss is interaction, I always had one or two quality guys around to help or at least discuss things with when I had my actual garage running, everyone's busy with life now. I really need to just put some shop time in and get after it. I have allowed myself to get less than motivated. Getting older is no fun! I also found some pre built pedal assemblies without cylinders that are similar to the ones you built and they are very reasonably priced, $100.00. So after I take a good look at my configuration, I may just order them. If it saves a few hours work and materials, it would be worth that. I am not planning on running a brake booster, I figure a larger bore master cylinder should give plenty of stopping power on a light car. I will likely retain the rear drums, and add disks to the fronts. Does anyone feel the need for a booster?

 

[2old2fast]

I sure don't know why you'd need a booster ...
dave

 

[fletcherson]

Update for any interested. After actually spending an evening in the shop with a tape measure, the hydraulic pedal setup, as nice as it is, will make it too tight and just complicate things. I can rework what I have by cutting and adding a extension to the brackets and then just build a mount for the master cylinder. It will work fine and be simple. I ordered the correct joint to connect my caddi column to the vega box, that will allow me to position and size the column, gear box, and then the pedals. I need to go scrounge through the wrecking yards for a decent seat, but I plan on moving the pedals as far cab ward as possible along with the column to allow for as much leg room as possible. The tilt, telescope column makes it simpler as far as location, and the integrated switches will simplify the wiring and dash clutter. I think I have a decent work around to move the shifter over enough to allow me to actually drive it somewhat comfortably, but I fear it will prevent me from using the bomber style seats, so plan B, minivan seat. I will snap some pics and try to post asap so anyone in a similar situation can see, or if anyone wants to add their .02, that's good too.

 

[Hotrod46]

Since you're keeping the underfloor setup. here is how I did mine.



If the curve of the pedal is the same as the radius of the arm, the pedal arm comes through one hole in the floor. Just like a stock Ford pedal assembly. This setup takes up the least room of any I have seen. That is except for the way that Russ-No-More Street Rods in Louisiana does theirs. On theirs, the pedal arm is actually outside the firewall. The arm is just a vertical straight bar. The MC is under the car. The curved pedal arm (similar to mine) goes through a hole in the firewall, not the floor. I didn't have room around the engine for that setup, or I would have used it, since it leaves the entire floor clutter free (just like a hanging pedal).

 

[fletcherson]

Yea, I just got the dimensions from them today and haven't had a chance to go to the shop and scratch my head... I think the cross member may inhibit it's use. Whoever built this thing used the crossmember for the pedals, brake system, lift bars, and trans mount. Pretty slick, but very limiting as far as adapting it. It was a trdiditional type cab steer and I cannot drive it, I just don't fit. That's why I am moving the steering column and pedals. I think I have a resolve for the shifter, I canibolized a console shifter and can incorporate it with the original shifter to move the stick over enough to get some leg room. I will likely be welding up a new mount for the existing pedals. The only place that makes sense is under, I have no room on the firewall and want to keep it clean. I believe it would be simpler to start over from scratch and actually design one to fit, but I do like the old school parts and feel of it, so I will make do.

Since you're keeping the underfloor setup. here is how I did mine.



If the curve of the pedal is the same as the radius of the arm, the pedal arm comes through one hole in the floor. Just like a stock Ford pedal assembly. This setup takes up the least room of any I have seen. That is except for the way that Russ-No-More Street Rods in Louisiana does theirs. On theirs, the pedal arm is actually outside the firewall. The arm is just a vertical straight bar. The MC is under the car. The curved pedal arm (similar to mine) goes through a hole in the firewall, not the floor. I didn't have room around the engine for that setup, or I would have used it, since it leaves the entire floor clutter free (just like a hanging pedal).

nice, looks good, simple and effective. Mine is a little different, being a manual shift, which is what the squeeze is. Trying to make the pedals, shifter, and column fit me... The original builder did good, just not right for me. They also had a toe board that I plan to either eliminate or at least minimize, which will allow several inches more leg room.

 

[fletcherson]

Ok, here are some pics of the pedals and column to box area that I have been talking about. I finally got the steering wheel, adapter, horn button, adapter joint for my caddi tilt, telescoping column and have it disassembled to shorten. I also have a pic of my idea for cutting and welding the new shifter handle to gain leg room, and I took a day and went scrapping, scored a Chrysler center mini van seat that is dirty, but just right size. It's 40" at the bottom, and 42" at the widest point where the arm rest goes. It should fit perfect. I noticed there are many choices, most are wider. This was the only one in the entire yard that size, think it was a mid 90's Chrysler, it had the front grill that looked like the ram trucks. Now I have what I need to actually fit and set the column and box, then lengthen the pedals and shifter. Perhaps progress is finally forthcoming!

 

[2old2fast]

Boy , talk about a time capsule , bolt on radius rod plates , mid -mount/bell-housing motor mounts , T-10.....you might have more $$$ worth of nastolgia [sp.] parts than you think !!
dave
if that hurst shifter is for a tri-fve or a vette it could be valuable !!

 

[fletcherson]

Not sure, about the shifter origin. The t is chuck full of good ole parts. The engine is a 67 vette or chevelle service replacement 427 with 425hp heads, alum flywheel, reported 13-1' but I haven't ran comp test or opened up yet. The wheels are original magnesiums. That's my dilemma... Making it modern enough to drive without ruining it... I like it and the era it came from, or I would sell it off and cash in. Not in me to do it. It had a pair of Holley carbs on it that had the printed ink number on the air horns that are 426 cross ram carbs. The previous owner put new carbs on and was goin to scrap them. Luckily I spotted them, not knowing what they were till later.

 

[fletcherson]

Ok, well I spend pretty much all day carving on my mini van seat frame. Thanks Dave! Lol. You were correct, there was some space wasting away between the seat back and the bucket body. I was able to get the seat back in the tub a little more by reforming the rear of the bottom to fit the curved corners of the tub, and by eliminating the tubing on the top corners of the back and replacing them with plate. That allowed it to more closely fit the curve as well, without changing the shape of the seat. Of course I had to redesign the brackets that connect the top and bottom, which allowed me to lower the back down without cutting it and change the seat back angle to better fit the tub. I am pretty pleased with the fitment, but only gained about an inch at the top, maybe 2 at the seat bench, but that puts the front of the seat just behind the door seam and behind the shifter. A lot of work for a little space, but all of those fractions add up! I will post some pics once I get back out to the shop and organize my thoughts. That seat is from a 2002 Chrysler per the tag on the frame for anyone interested in a 40" wide seat. I think I will indeed need to order the double joint for the steering column. It will allow me to move the column over about 3/4"' which will allow a littler much needed space for my wide clutch foot. If I would have ordered it initially, it wouldn't have worked, lol...

 

[2old2fast]

Glad you're finding some room..if it helps any , measured on the outside , from the edge of thefirewall to the edge of my steering column is only 1 1/2". My main reason [besides being simple] for using mech. linkage w/a bellcrank, was to be able to change/tweak the linkage/pedal travel/effort w/o having to mess w/cyl. sizes ,etc. If you need more measurments , let me know.
dave