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Wish I'd bought one of these years ago

choppinczech

Well-Known Member
I was getting really tired of cutting glass with scissors one piece at a time and I stumbled onto this.


It is awesome. I only have to mark the top piece of a stack of 6 layers of 1.5 oz mat.

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Now you find them, after I wore out every pair of sizzers I had and the two pair I bought, lol... Those things are awesome! I am about done with this glass, but those would be a welcome addition.
 
It says they cut carpet, paper, etc.. They would be very handy to have for general use too. I wonder how long they stay sharp. I think I will take a chance on them. Good find!
Choppinczech, what are your thoughts on the strength of fiberglass for things like a door jamb? To be more clear, I am in the process of deciding how I am going to construct my doors and jambs. I plan on carving white oak to fit the contour of the tub, bond it with fibered bondo with resin and hardener mixed in, then encasing it in glass later, after cutting the doors and fitting the hinges, latches, etc. my dilemma is deciding how to create a stop to seal and prevent rattle, etc. I don't want obtrusive, after thought looking anything. I am thinking about doing it with glass, just creating a ledge mold, and allowing the glass to run past the opening on the inside, layering until a acceptable thickness, then forming to taste. What are your thoughts? I done the same thing on the master cylinder access door in my floor. It worked out nice, fits perfect, but I am skeptical of how durable it will be. It's durability relies on its adhesion to the bottom of the floor. I just don't have enough experience to know the strength characteristics.
 
I'm in the same boat as we speak. I just finished up the molds for new door skins.


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I have to do mine different than cutting them out last. Although that's the best way. I'm going 1 1/2" below the floor for a threshold and the new skins need to be laid up with a stiffer weave than the plain mat they are know.

I like the way this guy did the doors on his Willys. Kind of worked backward. Framed it all with steel first. Then attached the wood from the steel frame to the cowl and door skins. Then glassed over it all.

I plan to do something similar to this with a kind of long mono hinge.

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Not sure if that answers your question. I've been pondering over how to do my doors for years.
 
I should mention too that these molds had to be thick and braced up well before pulling them off. There can't be any twist.

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The bracing's flat bottom let's me work on a table top. And I can flip the molds up on their top sides, clamp them to a table edge, and lay up the harder to reach over hanging part.

Once the new skins are made and the opening is cut, I'll position the new skins with several 1/2" wide T shaped extruded aluminum and clecos.
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They'll hold the skins in place and maintain an 1/8" gap while all the new work is going on.
 
Cool, I love those willy's, almost bought one a few years back. If I get energetic enough to do another kit car type build, it will be a top contender. I don't have much weight or mass to contend with on my T doors. I did build the steel stiffeners that are fore and aft of the door openings that serve as body mounts, stiffeners, jambs, and they will be encased with the oak in glass. The oak is overkill, but it will serve as a stiffener for the actual door as well as a strong mounting surface to hold the hinge and latch fasteners. I am second guessing my decision to use a chunk of old barn oak because it is so dense and hard, old growth oak, but I had it, so I used it...two band saw blades and a couple belt sander belts later, I think it's good. I plan on using foam to fill the void on the inside of the doors and glassing them smooth. They are small enough that I think it will look ok. I ended up just ordering mill finish cast steel hinges from speedway and a very simple surface mount latch. I was going to install bear claw style, but after much thought, don't feel the extra work and money is merited for such small, light doors. I can retro them in later if I change my mind. I think I have it worked out. I have the oak cut to fit the inside contour, have the preliminary glass work done to the tub to fill the voids in the door contour and create a nice surface. I just don't know if the glass will be strong enough as a stop alone, or if I should make a steel reinforcement to attach to the inside of the jambs and laminate into the glass. I am still up in the air about exactly where the bottom of the door will be. My floor ended up terminating about 1/2" or so below the door body line, which I may or may not just grind off and have a smooth side, but I need to think it through. I don't know if I want a lip at the door bottom, or cut it so the floor is the actual bottom door stop. Although I would have to cut through the glass that I just finished to attach the floor to the tub, I think I like that idea best. It's likely no more actual glass work and I think the end result will be better. The big wild card is that I filled the void between the top and bottom of the plywood substrate with fibered bondo when I glassed it to the tub, so it will be a chore cutting it without massacring it, cut off wheel, I think will work. In retro thought, I wish I had installed a piece of aluminum duct tape to that area, it would have made the chore easier. Mine is much simpler than yours. I don't have near the patience or skill set with glass that you demonstrate. I would have to do a lot more of it to get the nuances and techniques down, but it is a cool craft. Most of my experience with it via the body shop was in repairs, boat repairs, etc. the process of creating stuff is a whole new ball game. I like it. It is a chore keeping things clamped, etc so they won't distort as they cure. I had a time with my floor, and it was real simple and flat. The bulkhead, or firewall was a treat also, but someone cut it out decades ago and it was distorted, I had to cut a substrate, rout it so it flush fit the original flange, and rout the other side to accept the steel inner reinforcement. It turned out perfect, but it wasnt by chance. I had to clamp and brace the day lights out of it. Glad I did it, the body is so much stronger and more rigid. Yea, it gained some weight, but the longer safer life is worth the trade off in my mind. I can still lift it on and off of the frame alone, but probably shouldn't, lol. I am anxious to see your progress, I will post some pics of mine as I get moving on it. I thought I was going to do it this week, but life has a way of rearranging ones schedule.... I got about half way through a big chunk of old oak when the band saw blade died, then I couldn't find the right size where I usually buy, you know how it goes. It seems I have to order just about everything anymore. No one seems to stock what I need. The world sure has changed in that respect. The last couple of major building jobs that I did were also speced and purchased on line from an Amish company, no less, lol...now that's progress!
 
The big wild card is that I filled the void between the top and bottom of the plywood substrate with fibered bondo when I glassed it to the tub, so it will be a chore cutting it without massacring it, cut off wheel, I think will work.

I use one of these quite a bit. Pretty forgiving, minimal dust and they'll do nice plunge cuts. The best blade for glass seems to be the fine tooth for hard woods.
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Ok, good idea, I didn't think of it, I will give it a try. I have a rechargeable one that I use primarily for tile and grout repairs, and cutting the bottom of door casing when installing laminate flooring, etc...We also bought a special blade for it to cut out eurothane windshield adhesive, that's chrystlers recommended procedure. I also bought a air powered one at the Chinese knock off store the other day on sale with triangle sanding heads to assist with the bucket. The thought of my teeth rattling....oh well.
 
FYI, I really like bosh. I have many of their tools and they last. I installed one of their tankless water heater in my house about seven years ago. Last month, the water was t hot. I checked it and one of the heating elements was bad, that aren't repairable. I was pissed, that thing was eighteen hundred bucks.... I just happened to keep the manual and by chance read it. It stated that there is a ten year warranty. I thought, yea right. But I called. Long story short, three days later, I had a brand new one on my doorstep free of charge. Hard to find companies with integrity nowadays. They have it.
 

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