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1926 Model T RPU

New Coker Firestone tires and tubes installed. 5.50-16 front / 7.00-16 rear. Engine dress kit also installed.

I have been tweeking the suspension. Removed 2 leafs front and rear and rotated the rear pinion down. Had my driveshaft builder stop over to give me my options. Going to do a CV at the tranny because the driveshaft angle between the axle and trans is very close to the upper limit of the working acceptable angle of the joints at highway speeds.



 
Might get a few frowns, but Ted Brown always used to say if you phase the UJ's at 90* it would give you a little bit more angle.
 
Love the stance of your "beast" :thumbsup: Have you driven it at all? Like down the driveway and back?
 
Its been awhile so I started from your first post and went through your build. Love the work you do. If you and Choppinczech got together I bet it would be one wild build. Both you guys are very talented. Keeps the pics coming.
 
Its been awhile so I started from your first post and went through your build. Love the work you do. If you and Choppinczech got together I bet it would be one wild build. Both you guys are very talented. Keeps the pics coming.

ha, i dont think Chopp needs me dragging him down. im more of a 10%,10%,80% when it comes to Fit/Form/Function
 
Might get a few frowns, but Ted Brown always used to say if you phase the UJ's at 90* it would give you a little bit more angle.

Gerry, I wont repeat what the driveshaft shop owner said... But you're correct, he did make a frowny face.
 
Ted said he had over 100K on his with the UJs phased at 90*. Who knows!!!!
 
I wouldn't suggest running one where it had to be phased at 90 to function under normal operating conditions, but to allow for additional clearance to avoid binding, why not? As long as it's balanced. It's easier to build a shaft with the yokes like aligned, but I see no functional difference. I've been welding various yokes and the like together for years in the process of putting drive trains where they weren't designed to go. The only one I've ever had an issue with was one that I didn't do, it was a s10 blazer with a v8/700r4 and whoever done it lowered the stance, which caused the driveshaft to bind during pinion travel and it broke the transmission case and bent the drive shaft. When I figured it out, it was because the shaft was too long and bottomed out on the tail shaft. I have used double joint couplings where extreme pinion angle variance occurred. They came in many large fords, lincolns, etc. I'm not sure if there is room for one in a bucket, but it will allow more travel or angle if that's what is required to work out.
 
I had a double joint coupling on my 94 Jeep Grand Cherokee (stock) it lasted 220,000 Km before I had to replace it.
 
i am laying out the design of my interior and thought i had bookmarked a post that someone here has about using some sort of rubber they cut to shape for the flooring...
Can someone point me in the right direction?
 
You are welcome. I get ideas from the guys on this sight. The are very talented and crafty. Love watching your build. Keep the pics coming.
 
Driveshaft is in. Slip 1310 CV/ 2" .120 wall tube/ 1330 to R3 rear u joint.



interior is coming along nice. Just have the rear back pads to make.



 

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