old round fart
Well-Known Member
A POO-POO cushion might be fun. It would have the crowd trying to figure who did it!
Big redo of the old bucket
- Thread starter PotvinGuy
- Start date
ORF, Flatsman, I've considered a fart machine and it just might appear soon. With GPS and Google driving, the T might go by itself! And I could put a monitor and Skype hookup in the cockpit and talk to spectators. Never have to leave my La-Z-Boy.
Been troubleshooting the new electrical system. Small problems. Broken wire, bad circuit board in the shifter, and the brake switch quit working. I had to loosen it's lines to rotate it and may have got some air in the lines. Would that cause it to not work? I need to bleed the brakes anyway. Adding fluids today and will see if it starts.
Been troubleshooting the new electrical system. Small problems. Broken wire, bad circuit board in the shifter, and the brake switch quit working. I had to loosen it's lines to rotate it and may have got some air in the lines. Would that cause it to not work? I need to bleed the brakes anyway. Adding fluids today and will see if it starts.
Flatsman
Member
Congrats! Hope to bring mine back to life next week!
Ah, the first cruise tonight. Bucket running great, nice weather, pretty girls. What more does a guy need? https://picasaweb.google.com/104971212334307682869/NStPaul672013?authkey=Gv1sRgCNn489T15de8Pw
This is BTT50s week, so I'm racing around. Here's the new seat box:
Went to 4 ribs. Dropped the seats about 1" more and tilted them 1/2" more. Getting the driving position really dialed in.
And the seats in place:
Still have some lines to clean up and a few electrical bugs. Later, I'll describe cutting up the EZ-EFI harness and how the system works now, and how the Painless fan controller is doing. And some more info on the electric shifter upgrade.
Went to 4 ribs. Dropped the seats about 1" more and tilted them 1/2" more. Getting the driving position really dialed in.
And the seats in place:
Still have some lines to clean up and a few electrical bugs. Later, I'll describe cutting up the EZ-EFI harness and how the system works now, and how the Painless fan controller is doing. And some more info on the electric shifter upgrade.
Don'tCallMeJimmie
Member
I look at those seats with the lack of side bolsters and think of how a touch of ArmorAll on the passenger seat will convert that into a perfect SOB seat with virtually no effort at all.
That's Slide Over Baby, fyi.
Looking good!
That's Slide Over Baby, fyi.
Looking good!
Yes, I've thought about an aluminum panel between the seats for lateral support. Could even add some lights and controls to it. A nice project for next winter.I look at those seats with the lack of side bolsters and think of how a touch of ArmorAll on the passenger seat will convert that into a perfect SOB seat with virtually no effort at all.
That's Slide Over Baby, fyi.
Looking good!
And I have some 3" seat belts to go in. They are mainly to keep from bouncing around on really bad road.
Slide over baby, indeed...Annette, I'd give a year of life to have you next to me at the cruise.
Swapped the 3.90 rear end for a 2.60 today in preparation for the Des Moines trip to GG. Can hardly tell the difference driving since we bucketeers have so much torque/weight. If anything the car is even easier to drive since it is not so jumpy. But the RPMs have dropped a bunch and the manifold vacuum is higher, indicating the engine is working less and mileage should be better. I’m gonna keep track on the trip and see.
Ordered another electric shifter part with overnight UPS and hope to have that ready for the trip. But hard to tell with those Canucks; they seem to run on French time, take weird holidays and aren’t in a hurry, except when it’s lunchtime.
You know I replaced my tranny cooler with a Derale pan, which is a little deeper and has air tubes running thru the fluid. Tranny temp is running 160F around town (that’s 71C in the modern world). I’m beginning to wonder whether many rods really need a cooler. One of those things everyone does and no one questions. We’re not racing, we’re not pulling stumps, we just putt around in our little lightweight cars. We’ll see what happens on the trip; 5 hours on the Interstate should be a good test.
Anyone know about some heat wave somewhere? I took a jacket to the cruise last night, it gets downright chilly on these MN country roads after sundown.
Ordered another electric shifter part with overnight UPS and hope to have that ready for the trip. But hard to tell with those Canucks; they seem to run on French time, take weird holidays and aren’t in a hurry, except when it’s lunchtime.
You know I replaced my tranny cooler with a Derale pan, which is a little deeper and has air tubes running thru the fluid. Tranny temp is running 160F around town (that’s 71C in the modern world). I’m beginning to wonder whether many rods really need a cooler. One of those things everyone does and no one questions. We’re not racing, we’re not pulling stumps, we just putt around in our little lightweight cars. We’ll see what happens on the trip; 5 hours on the Interstate should be a good test.
Anyone know about some heat wave somewhere? I took a jacket to the cruise last night, it gets downright chilly on these MN country roads after sundown.
I'm writing this from the hotel in Des Moines. Still amazed at the internet. The trip down was so boring I was in danger of falling asleep at the wheel. 200 miles of cornfields. But the 2.60 rear end was really nice; cruising at 60 mph and the engine loafing at 1800 rpm. The tranny fluid stabilized at about 200F, which pretty much answers the cooler question. New seats worked great. Five hours and I felt fine. With the old seat I'd be nursing a bad back and sore kidneys.
Maybe 5000 rods here at the GG show. Nice venue at the state fair park. I'll report mpg when I get back to MN Monday.
Maybe 5000 rods here at the GG show. Nice venue at the state fair park. I'll report mpg when I get back to MN Monday.
Mileage was a disappointing 12.7 mpg. I might have improved it by increasing the AFR, but didn't have the O2 sensor hooked up to enable that. Will keep working on it. Maybe tweak the accelerator pump, and add some timing. And I wonder how much is lost in that always-slipping torque converter. Maybe time for a modern tranny.
Five more shows and cruises this month alone, so most work will wait until the winter. Want to build the tunnel and do some more interior finishing. And I have a nice Gilmer belt and pulley rig for the alternator. And want a trick steering damper. Like a kid at Xmas, huh?
Five more shows and cruises this month alone, so most work will wait until the winter. Want to build the tunnel and do some more interior finishing. And I have a nice Gilmer belt and pulley rig for the alternator. And want a trick steering damper. Like a kid at Xmas, huh?
Hey Special K,
I was reading an article about RMI and how it effects EFI ECUs and they said you should use twisted pair cable for crank sensor or distributor sensors to reduce radio frequency. Was curious if you had done this or if you knew if the wiring harness that came with your FAST ECU had twisted pair in it? When I first install my Accel DFI GEN VII ECU , I had RMI real bad. It would cause the laptop to loose connection to the ECU while trying to tune. It got very frustrating to say the least. Now that I'm in re-build mode, I want to make sure I take every chance to reduce RMI issues.
Thanks for the rebuild thread; love seeing all the neat stuff you're doing. Wish you were still in TX so I could see it first up close.
I was reading an article about RMI and how it effects EFI ECUs and they said you should use twisted pair cable for crank sensor or distributor sensors to reduce radio frequency. Was curious if you had done this or if you knew if the wiring harness that came with your FAST ECU had twisted pair in it? When I first install my Accel DFI GEN VII ECU , I had RMI real bad. It would cause the laptop to loose connection to the ECU while trying to tune. It got very frustrating to say the least. Now that I'm in re-build mode, I want to make sure I take every chance to reduce RMI issues.
Thanks for the rebuild thread; love seeing all the neat stuff you're doing. Wish you were still in TX so I could see it first up close.
No, there wasn't any twisted pair in the harness when I dissected it. The only part I left untouched was the O2 cable. Everything else needed to be lengthened or shortened, so I chopped it up real good. FAST was very stern about running the power leads DIRECTLY TO THE BATTERY, so I naturally ignored them and ran the power leads to the fuse and ground busses along with all the other loads. I did add ferrite cores from Radio Shack to the power leads just because I had them. I haven't noticed any problems, but plan to use the oscilloscope to see if there is any noise on the lines.
BUT the dash tachometer did act funny. It got it's signal via a long run from the dizzy to the panel and then back to the dash. So I cut that and ran a short wire from the tach to the dizzy and that cleared it up. The ECU tach reading was always OK. I'll do the tests and let you know what I find. There's plenty of ways to kill RFI/EMI; twisted pair, shielded cable, filter capacitors, chokes, cores, etc.
BUT the dash tachometer did act funny. It got it's signal via a long run from the dizzy to the panel and then back to the dash. So I cut that and ran a short wire from the tach to the dizzy and that cleared it up. The ECU tach reading was always OK. I'll do the tests and let you know what I find. There's plenty of ways to kill RFI/EMI; twisted pair, shielded cable, filter capacitors, chokes, cores, etc.
A few things to report. Added a voltage & current display:
Added a "kneepad" from Sporty's to hold the ECU controller and the garage door opener:
Pilots use these. It straps to your thigh and can hold whatever. I'm going to add some other stuff to it.
And I needed to bleed trapped air from the cooling system. Here's the setup:
...a catch bottle with a tube to a bleed valve at the rear of each head:
And here's what it looks like:
I run the engine to pressurize the cooling system, then open the bleed valve to release air trapped at the upper rear of the head. This is important in reverse-flow systems. Corvette started this with the Gen II engine in 1992.
Added a "kneepad" from Sporty's to hold the ECU controller and the garage door opener:
Pilots use these. It straps to your thigh and can hold whatever. I'm going to add some other stuff to it.
And I needed to bleed trapped air from the cooling system. Here's the setup:
...a catch bottle with a tube to a bleed valve at the rear of each head:
And here's what it looks like:
I run the engine to pressurize the cooling system, then open the bleed valve to release air trapped at the upper rear of the head. This is important in reverse-flow systems. Corvette started this with the Gen II engine in 1992.
Cruise season is over. Have to work on wifey's Ghia for a while before storing it for the winter. Then back to the T and a long punch list. Mainly finishing the interior and detail work on motor. Have some nice Scorpion roller rockers to install. Don't expect much difference, but they sure are pretty.
Anyone have any experience with silk screening? I was thinking of redoing the switch panel.
Anyone have any experience with silk screening? I was thinking of redoing the switch panel.
old round fart
Well-Known Member
Don't know what you are thinking about, but using a sigh company to make a paint mask may be an option. Your thinking is SO FAR ahead of mine you have already discounted that option!
I see silk screen kits on the internet: http://ezscreenprint.com/. Looks easy and cheap and if I screw up just try again. Wifey is artsy, and I'm trying to nudge her into doing the legwork for me.
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