Big redo of the old bucket

[fletcherson]

New steering arms from RPM. They lack holes so I can customize them to my setup:

Questions: 1) What's best technique to drill 3/8 steel? High speed, Kryptonite bit, personal lubricant, or use my X-ray vision?
2) If I have to bend them, what's best way? Will a propane torch suffice?

Propane in a standard hand held torch in my opinion is not what you want to use. It will take so long to heat, that the entire part will heat up. What you want is quick direct heat so the bend will be where you intend as opposed to a wider deforming of the whole part, if you have a turbo torch or the like with map or acceteline, you would be better off, or just lay it out and find someone with a oxygen/acceteline setup to help out. jmho.

 

[PotvinGuy]

I learn something new daily on tbucketeers. Never had heard of MAPP. Looks like a hot and cheap upgrade from propane. I'm hoping I won't need to bend the new arms. Should know this weekend when I do some trial and error fitting.

 

[fletcherson]

I learn something new daily on tbucketeers. Never had heard of MAPP. Looks like a hot and cheap upgrade from propane. I'm hoping I won't need to bend the new arms. Should know this weekend when I do some trial and error fitting.

You can also buy acceteline in a small disposable tank. My friend has a oxy acceteline set that used disposable tanks for both. It was ok for small quick chores, but the fuel and oxy was pricey compared to filling standard tanks.

 

[drumgene]

Where is the beer holder on that seat ?

Don

REALLY!!

 

[PotvinGuy]

Been laying out the new steering. Aurora had the M12x1.25 thread my R&P needs. And found a dandy source of stainless hardware: http://www.albanycountyfasteners.com Great selection of US and metrics, low prices, no minimum order, free shipping over $25. And more rod ends and such: www.midwestcontrol.com

In the pic is the rod end and stainless nuts and bolts. I've been measuring and drawing before I drill and cut the RPM arms. Thinking in 3 dimensions makes my head hurt! That little black bolt on the right secures the caliper mounting plate to the spindle and the steering arm. It's an oddball that only Magnum makes.

 

[PotvinGuy]

Took the plunge and drilled the arms today. And it turned out pretty good for an old dummy with a cheap drill press:

By offsetting the holes in the mounting ears, the arm tilts down to meet the R&P rod end. Won't have to bend the arms after all.
I may use the extended arm to attach a steering damper. Have a So-Cal unit and several others to fool with. Wish someone in SEMA would make a nice adjustable billet unit (hint, hint).

 

[choppedtop]

Looking good! Got to tell one on myself here. I had a Mustang rack for my roadster. I didn't even think about it when mounting. I put it in back like yours, and guess what? When I turned the steering wheel to the right, the wheels turned left! What made it bad, my wife had just came into the shop, and I wanted to show off my handy work. We both seen the mistake at the same time. I had to redo the mounts to work with a Camry rack. Worked out fine after that. The front axle moves so little, I don't get much, if any bump steer with it.
Lee

 

[Swampdog]

I read somewhere that Norm Grabroski (sorry about the spelling) used a Ross steering box off an ice cream truck. When got it on the road it steered the opposite direction till got the arm on the box repositioned.

 

[butch27]

that's true. Norm told me he drove it to one of the shops by steering it backwards. He WAS nuts, but cool.

 

[RESINATOR]

That Caliper mounting bolt is actually just a flathead Allen bolt (1/2" 20) that is machined to fit the bore in that bracket. We had to build our own for the lengths needed on the steering arms we use, so if you find that you need a different length for any reason we go as long as 1 3/4".

 

[PotvinGuy]

That Caliper mounting bolt is actually just a flathead Allen bolt (1/2" 20) that is machined to fit the bore in that bracket. We had to build our own for the lengths needed on the steering arms we use, so if you find that you need a different length for any reason we go as long as 1 3/4".

Thanks Jerry! Magnum just has the 1" and I'll have to use a thin Nylock with it. Let you know when I get it all together and may decide to use a cap nut or other fitting.

 

[PotvinGuy]

 

[PotvinGuy]

Here's where we are:

Top pic is the old setup.
If you'd like to see more details and get some good info re lining a new front end: https://tbucketeers.com/threads/lining-up-a-new-front-end-how-would-you-do-it.16769/
Next I want to add a steering damper before I bust it up for paint and chrome. Any good ideas will be rewarded with 72 untouched T-buckets in Paradise. I have the ugly So-Cal unit, but am looking at other dampers and shocks, including motorcycle units. Why do those guys get all the cool parts?

 

[James C]

Here's where we are:

Top pic is the old setup.
If you'd like to see more details and get some good info re lining a new front end: https://tbucketeers.com/threads/lining-up-a-new-front-end-how-would-you-do-it.16769/
Next I want to add a steering damper before I bust it up for paint and chrome. Any good ideas will be rewarded with 72 untouched T-buckets in Paradise. I have the ugly So-Cal unit, but am looking at other dampers and shocks, including motorcycle units. Why do those guys get all the cool parts?

You got a whole bunch of unused steering arm there. Plan to mount the stabilizer to one of them near the back & trim the other one shorter? Whatever the case if it was me I'd put some miles on it before refinishing.

 

[PotvinGuy]

Yeah, I left the arms long just in case the damper goes there. But the So-Cal unit only has a stroke of 6", so it will have to go way up the arm. Still looking for a long stroke unit.

 

[EX JUNK]

PotvinGuy, can I ask why you are choosing to use a steering damper before seeing if you really need one. I've always considered them to be a "band aid" for problems that can be addressed with proper adjustments. I'm not trying to be critical because I really appreciate all the work that you do to that car. I just would like to know your reasoning. Thanks in advance.

Jim

 

[PotvinGuy]

PotvinGuy, can I ask why you are choosing to use a steering damper before seeing if you really need one. I've always considered them to be a "band aid" for problems that can be addressed with proper adjustments. I'm not trying to be critical because I really appreciate all the work that you do to that car. I just would like to know your reasoning. Thanks in advance.

Jim

With manual R&P the steering wheel is directly connected to the road wheels and every little bump is felt in your hands and wrists. Most new cars have R&P, but it is power-assist and eliminates the feedback. Conventional worm gear steering boxes don't exhibit this feedback, so most street rods don't need a damper. But I've used one on my car and it makes a big difference in comfort.

 

[EX JUNK]

With manual R&P the steering wheel is directly connected to the road wheels and every little bump is felt in your hands and wrists. Most new cars have R&P, but it is power-assist and eliminates the feedback. Conventional worm gear steering boxes don't exhibit this feedback, so most street rods don't need a damper. But I've used one on my car and it makes a big difference in comfort.

Thanks, I did not know that as I've never encounter that because the rack in my '37 is power assisted. Thanks again for the information.

Jim

 

[PotvinGuy]

Waiting for some parts to complete the front end, so will review the new Lexan windshield. I like it a lot, but it bends alarmingly at speed:

It won't break, but I'm afraid it will pop out of the frame and take my head off! So I thought I would add some stiffeners at the top edge:

..a couple strips of 1/8 by 1/2 aluminum, bolted thru the windshield. Should do the job. But while poking thru the metal bin at Ace, I found this nice piece:

Aluminum channel, just the right size to slip unto the top edge. I did a little grinding on the ends to match the frame caps:

....and I'll just glue it or use double-side tape for now. Later I can add bolts if needed (I think they look , but wifey says ).

 

[EX JUNK]

Waiting for some parts to complete the front end, so will review the new Lexan windshield. I like it a lot, but it bends alarmingly at speed:

It won't break, but I'm afraid it will pop out of the frame and take my head off! So I thought I would add some stiffeners at the top edge:

..a couple strips of 1/8 by 1/2 aluminum, bolted thru the windshield. Should do the job. But while poking thru the metal bin at Ace, I found this nice piece:

Aluminum channel, just the right size to slip unto the top edge. I did a little grinding on the ends to match the frame caps:

....and I'll just glue it or use double-side tape for now. Later I can add bolts if needed (I think they look , but wifey says ).

Very nice!

Jim