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Busted bolt

Back to the locked up motor. My nasty suspicious mind thinks that engine had, or developed, a water leak, head gasket, manifold or somewheres that let a dose of water get into a cylinder or two and corrode her up big time. Seen it before, and you did say it was only run for a few minutes before storage. If I was going to store a motor I think I would drain it of coolant. (never done it, we don't have winter here)
We pickle our alcohol motors with 50/50 Mineral Spirits and Dexron. Equal parts kerosene (jet A1) mineral spirits and dexron make a great general purpose lube and penetrant oil. The gun guys call it "Eds Red" and its as good as Break Free for that purpose.
 
Sorry guys. Stepped away for a while to Spend some family time and now out of town for work.
The bolt is still in the snout. I cut it with a dremel and tried to screw it out.... Nothing.
So I decide I'll pull the trans off and see if using a flywheel turner will help. Well I've got the 50-53 motor. The bell housing is funky on these. You can't get to all the bolts on the flywheel to separate the trans from motor if you can't turn the flywheel. So this means I need to drop the crank out of it to remove the trans I've asked a few shops they all say the same....
One of the shops I talked to has a take out 327/350 trans that drove in,(swap out for a big block) turnkey for 800$. To rebuild the caddy engine it is between 3100-4200$ .I can rebuild both the 327/350 and still have a chunk of $ in my pocket.
I think I'll do it and just tuck the caddy motor in the corner till I finish this bucket.
 
2xcrash said:
Sorry guys. Stepped away for a while to Spend some family time and now out of town for work.
The bolt is still in the snout. I cut it with a dremel and tried to screw it out.... Nothing.
So I decide I'll pull the trans off and see if using a flywheel turner will help. Well I've got the 50-53 motor. The bell housing is funky on these. You can't get to all the bolts on the flywheel to separate the trans from motor if you can't turn the flywheel. So this means I need to drop the crank out of it to remove the trans I've asked a few shops they all say the same....
One of the shops I talked to has a take out 327/350 trans that drove in,(swap out for a big block) turnkey for 800$. To rebuild the caddy engine it is between 3100-4200$ .I can rebuild both the 327/350 and still have a chunk of $ in my pocket.
I think I'll do it and just tuck the caddy motor in the corner till I finish this bucket.
Click to expand...
I just thought of another trick that may help with the bolt. If you have a good slot cut in it, try using an old fashioned impact driver, the type you hit with a hammer. It may jar that bolt loose. If that doesn't work, proceed to the next logical step. If that motor was rebuilt 20k ago, it shouldn't need an actual rebuild. I would pull the heads and try to loosen it up before going that route. Just my thoughts I hope you get it!
 
Sounds like a deal! 327/th350 for $800. I'd go for that, even if you don't use it in your current build. Keep the Caddy engine and spread that 3 to 4 grand out over a longer period.
Sounds like your stuck between a rock n a hard spot on the balancer bolt. I never had a torch when I was younger either, so I always took the drill and easy out method. Also being a retired machinist, another way, would be to drill out the minor diameter of the thread and chase the threads with a tap. If you have enough bolt sticking out, try welding an extension on and hook up an impact wrench to the extension. Welding on it will also heat the bolt like a torch. Use that washer trick if you go the weld route. Pulling the heads is the best idea on the locked up motor, since your trans mission won't come off without the engine turning over. Penetrants would surely work that way.
 
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I'm going to go the "weld a nut to the exposed part of the bolt " route. Ive got nothing to lose with it now. I figure the sure way to get the motor unstuck is to buy the 327 combo, that's just the kind of luck I have!:rolleyes:
 
2xcrash said:
I figure the sure way to get the motor unstuck is to buy the 327 combo
Click to expand...

That always works. Sort of like buying a duplicate tool to find the one you lost.
 
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Well, good luck, You can't go wrong with the 327/350 combo, both moneywise and parts avail. wise. Its just me, but for HotRods, ie, TBuckets, I wouldn't mess with the Caddys unless it the Big Inch ones.
 
So have you ever walked into a shop and the hair on the back of your neck stands up. That's what it was like when I went to see the 327. So I bolted out of there.
But I did find a 350/350 runner. Got to hear it run and the trans is freshly rebuilt. Guy started to redo his gear then decided to drop modern running gear in his project. Got it all for a grand.
This weekend I'll be at Pamona swap meet to pick up some speed goodies for it.
 
Well here's the rust. More than just a rub it out mess.
Got a sbc 400 for the project.
 

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Nope. As of now I'm focused on the 400, the motor has been sleeved all in all it looks good. It's just the one cylynder that's jacked up...
 
2xcrash said:
Nope. As of now I'm focused on the 400, the motor has been sleeved all in all it looks good. It's just the one cylynder that's jacked up...
Click to expand...
The 400 is a good motor. I have a 383 in my Z28, that shares the crank and balancer with it. I like it except for having to have flywheels balanced every time I want to change transmission choices. It is by far the strongest running small block I have had.
 
2xcrash
good morning my name is Bob and you live about 160 miles away from me or 2 1/2 hours.
Is there any way you can bring it to me in West Hills either put it on a trailer the whole car or just bring the motor and transmission I will help you fix it .
let me know if you are interested I probably have all the tools to fix it here

bob
 
400 cu.in.? That's about 9 short.
 
Bob. Are you talking about fixing up the caddy motor or working with chevy motor? Id love the help. I work in torrance and have a studio out there too....
 
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